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New standard rod and main bearings in place and everything torqued. New standard volume oil pump with stiffer pink spring and new pickup installed. Timing set put back in and torqued, cam was degreed. Timing cover, oil pan and balancer installed. Touched up VHT Gold Metallic paint on lower end. Cleaned up the intake rails, it will stay off till the motor is in car for clearance. Next will be the 2004R upgrades.
So the 2004R was a bit greasy, mostly gravel and grease. We have many unpaved roads up here. I just hit it will solvent that Spray Nine Grez-Off, using a screw driver in crevices, a parts cleaning brush and brass bristle brush on the outside of the case. Then compressed air and CRC Brake Kleen. The pan is discoloured inside, so even less clutch material than it appears. I was running .555" boost valves from CK in the stock pump, 195ish PSI in foward gears. Hopefully the CK pump puts out 50 psi more. Now ready to start tearing into it!
So I got the CK pump installed. I added the seal retainer off the orginal pump. I used Vaseline to lube the O ring around the pump plus position and hold the plastic washer behind the pump. I started installing the CK Performance shift kit. It has very few parts. Basically a new line bias and accumulator spring. Plus the removal 3-2 control valve spring, a cup plug takes its place at the opposite end. I also plugged both ports the accumulators as instructed and have removed all parts of the accumulators per the instructions. Only the 3-4 is removed on lower output motors. I plan on using a 1/8" bit, .125" to drill the seperator plates, good for 350 HP. The 9/64", .146" is a bit bigger than .140" recommended for 400+ HP per the instructions.
The CK Performance shift kit and servo is installed. They get you to shorten the front part of the pin about 1/4". They also say to make sure there is .100" minimum of servo movement between the cover and snap right when depressing the cover, there was that much, trimmed an old brass feeler gauge and bent it in there to measure. I grabbed a used lock up connector out of the trans outside and installed a new O ring. New O ring and seal where the cable goes in the bullet. New rear seal and selector shaft seal. Tricky to get out, a 9/16" socket installs it. A new Mr.Gasket pan gasket, metal with composite material and sealing beads. Very thin and needed trimmed to clear the 4L60E filter. So all new outer seals on the trans. The car is in the shop and the 403 on the mounts.
I was glad, I didn't put in the cross motor mount bolts to install the full length stainless headers. Tilting the motor back and forth helped. I was going use Cooper exhaust gaskets with Optimum Grey around the ports already set up. They didn't line up like I wanted them to. Instead I used the gaskets that came with the headers, metal clad paper gaskets. I will probably use my new Copper collector gaskets, already covered with Optimum Grey. The Drivers side was a real pain and just clears the motor mount. Good thing both new mounts have the factory tin shields in place. The passenger side only needed the oil filter adapter removed and it went right in. It looks the full size Baldwin B9 will fit on and clear with some space. The collectors look like they will line up nicely. It only took 3+ hours🫣.
Well, I remembered the last two seals on the trans. The dipstick tube and TV cable seals.
Oh yeah, after many hours, I remembered why full length headers suck! Good thing they are worth 30 HP/TQ over manifolds and dual exhaust. No way the taller Baldwin B9 would fit. Even the Napa 1258 just touched the pipe, the K+N was even worse. I used an exhaust clamp on the pipe, a tiny bit of space now. Now the starter, no way the Powermaster mini starter will fit, connections hit the pipe opposite is no good also. The no name fit but didn't have infinite adjustment, had multiple holes and needed to be half way in between. The solution was the infinite adjustment block off the Powermaster on the no name starter. I used double exhaust clamps to pull the two pipes together and moved the starter wire tube and attached to the back of the head. It is close on the main power connection, hopefully it will be fine.
Filled the converter, seated right in. Once the transmission was on the dowels and partially tightened down , I spun the converter to make sure it was properly seated, it was. It pushed some fluid out the the cooler fittings, a good sign Trans in place with all the CK Performance upgrades. Easiest install have done, much better than the starter and oil filter yesterday. I love those easy to bend nickel copper lines for nearly everything, including trans cooler lines.
So I went to install the shift linkage, I couldn't get past neutral no matter what. I pulled the pan and apparently I installed the shift plunger in the wrong position, only two ways it can go in, it was the other way. Rather than dropping the valve body in car, I carefully bent the pawil so I could sneak out the S link. Put it in the proper position, bent back and made sure it shifted through the gears, installed the pan. Then tightened the motor mounts, installed the torque converter bolts with one washer between the converter and flex plate. Installed the TCI vacuum lockup switch back in place. Drive shaft installed as well. Then started on the exhaust. I thought I was going to be way short. After taking all the pipes installed just enraged enough, I had two stainless adapters, exactly what I needed. I installed the O2 in the new cat on the drivers side. It fit like a glove, the headers are the lowest but not too bad.
Last edited by olds 307 and 403; January 22nd, 2023 at 04:33 PM.
Intake is on, of course the drivers side gasket moved, PIA. Used Permatex Aviation sealant around the intake and crossover on both sides of thr gasket. I had the Black Right Stuff 1 minute gasket, no way I would an intake on quick enough for it. So I tried Optimum Red around the water ports and end rails. It has superior oil rresistant and 750 degree temperature resistance. Ok around the water ports, stacking talk, thin beads on the end rails, not so good. I put on the intake torqued then put a bit of the Right Stuff 1 minute Red in the caulking gun on the end rails, to make sure it seals.
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Last edited by olds 307 and 403; January 24th, 2023 at 08:23 PM.
Front serpentine brackets and belt in place. Fuel lines, new Wix 3/8" inline fuel filter. Cruise servo and TV cable installed. All hoses except the rad hoses tightened. I also mostly filled the transmission with fluid that was in it for only a couple of miles. A combination of Trans Hydraulic fluid and ATF, conventional and synthetic. I had one quart of Lucas Hot Rod high ZDDP 10W30. I threw it in with the STP left over from coating the cam and lifters. I also had 4L of SM 10W40 that went. I plan on priming the oil system with my Dewalt corded drill tomorrow.
Last edited by olds 307 and 403; January 28th, 2023 at 05:49 PM.
Ok, so I primed the oil system with my drill. I spun it till the 1/4 to drill adapter got hot. No oil to the top end. Let it cool, double checked shaft engagement, was good, did it a bunch more, could hear oil moving, till finally started coming out of a couple of pushrods. I did it more till coming out of many pushrods. Put everything back together including the Oldsmobile script valve covers. Filled the bowl and some in the carb, no start. I move the distributor, saw the pick up wasn't plugged in right. This HEI has the last red and white lead available for sale, Accel Brute Thunder in cap coil came with a low ohm center contact. I used a Proform module and added a mechanical limiter, medium springs and set the adjustable vacuum advance to around 10 degrees. I pull plugs, dry. I crank the distributor to the firewall, tries to start. Give it some gas while cranking, chugs to life. I set the base around 20 degrees, around 10 to 12 vacuum advance. Without the fans, got it up to 180 degrees, opened the thermostat, had 20 psi of oil pressure. It justs as soon as I hit the gas. Moved it foward and back a few times and topped up the trans a few more times, along with the coolant, Prestone 10 year, in a 55/45 mix. No ticks or bad sounds, only issue was someone put bolts but didn't tightened down the driver's side valve cover and released smoke. I thought the dipstick pushed out. I reused the Rocket Racing rubber with metal core valve cover gaskets. The exhaust sounds awesome, noticeable and mean but not super loud.
So, I noticed the brake pedal felt soft, it felt good when we pushed it in. Front reservoir was low, no obvious wet spots but assumed the one spot was from the untightened valve cover. New wheel cylinders on all 4 corners, new master cylinder and new Nickel Cooper lines from the rear hose and maybe one front hose. I will have to investigate, maybe a hose or a line not completely tightened.
It looks like, according to Joe P, it is somewhere in the front brakes, front to front, back to back. The Chassis Service manual wasn't clear. I did move around the proportioning valve and the one front line but that was a while back for the line. I moved the valve a bit more for header clearance. It is supposed to warm up more this weekend, so I will check it out.
I found the issue. Moving around the the 50 year old brake line to clear the headers broke the small line from the proportioning valve to the drivers front drum, right near the connection. New 12" 3/16" line with a 3/8"-24 to 1/2-20 adapter and good to go.
I made it up the hill after a few runs. Well, the good, better oil pressure with 10W40 vs 20W50 and definitely less noise and exhaust is only slightly loud and sounds amazing. The bad, no burnouts. I set the fan temp at 90C. It is a push in rad style. Davies Craig has a screw in style for the intake, I will upgrade. My point it was idling after a drive, I was adding Transmission fluid, more on that in a minute. I notice the fan isn't on, the temp 250! I turn it off and adjust down the temp till the fan comes on. The oil light didn't come on for low pressure but it was down to the bottom mark on the gauge for oil pressure. The trans, no shifts at all, going up to 3000 rpm. I am slightly overfull and even removed the zip ties off the TV cable. I will check line pressure before pulling it. I have a TH350 that can go in and take my time and double check everything in the 2004R.
TH350 in, I put 2 liters in the converter and it took 8 more to fill. I was surprised the Metric bolts were used for the mounts. Speedometer is off by 10 mph at 60 mph and it shifts perfect, not too soft or too harsh. Good till I get the new motor in, hopefully with a 5 spd manual.
Just driving it around, the 1600 stall sucks. I ordered a cheap 2000 to 2200 stall converter. The 403 sounds a lot better with acceptable oil pressure. I just got a box from Cutlassefi. Black ceramic coated headers and my RPM intake converted to SEFI.
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I think the choke is finally dialed in on the Qjet. I had to add two washers behind the choke housing. I was leaving it slightly loose, tight the linkage stuck down. I also set the coil tighter, fast idle up a bit and closed up the amount the pull opened. I also cleaned all the chrome, Stainless and adonized trim. Looks pretty good, will take pics tomorrow. This also arrived, 1000 cfm and a 1/4 the price of the Holley TB.
Last edited by olds 307 and 403; June 1st, 2023 at 09:05 PM.
Found screws for the sensors. Looks like a LS style IAC and a TBI style TPS. I pissed around with getting full throttle and smooth movement on the throttle body. It was no where near right, as is. I also used the Permatex Orange thread locker on the the eight throttle plate screws and side linkage. A lot better than how it arrived. I will order sensors and base gasket today and pick up some 5/16" stainless 1" long bolts and washers as well for the four base bolts.
New throttle body on with new TPS and IAC. Throttle stud on, my TV cable attachment went missing. Getting a new one and Spectre Throttle cable bracket next, baby steps.
Still waiting on the machine shop. As mentioned, 20 engines a month for the oil field. I will call them again on July 8th, get them to fix the crank and I will do the assembly myself. A couple more pieces.
Well I just couldn't stand the terrible green paint job I put on my 70S anymore. I am removing most of the paint and treating the rust with rust converter and will bondo the holes with metal reinforced filler. I have a brand new can in the basement, so it is getting used. I have multiple cans of Rust Destroyer red primer to cover it. I plan on this being a 2 year stop-gap as my Challenger and Lund boat will be paid for and give me an extra $1000 a month. So I will find a body shop to do 3, if not 4 quater panels, fix the hood, one rotten front corner and either door bottoms or whole doors. So this is why I am not super concerned on removing all the rust. The dock strike means there are very few trains coming through the CN yard right now. Short day yesterday, may not work today, so I have time.
Well half done. Nothing but a struggle to get this much done. First the filler didn't set up the first time. I put way more hardener than suggested. Apparently two to three times was needed. Then the nozzles on the first two cans I grabbed were plugged. After two more cans applied and next can plugged, I found a different nozzle that was wide open. I emptied the can and half as well that were plugged. One side done.
Last edited by olds 307 and 403; July 11th, 2023 at 02:33 PM.
But it's all worth it. You have an Oldsmobile not a whatever like every other fool chases. I kinda dig the red. Good for you. You are giving that car love like it never would have seen before. I love it 👍🤘 Keep pedaling. You won't be one fifty mustang's at every car show gathering etc.
Thanks, only Oldsmobile with Olds power for me when it comes to classic cars. I will be looking for a 88 to 95 GMC/Chebby truck to Olds power as well. Yeah, this car was a mouse filled mess when I bought it a few years back. I did the headerliner and recovered the front seat. I had to replace a bunch of the seat padding and remove all the mice skeletons. Now if I can get tge machine shop to cooperate and fix my 330 crank properly, I can get the 358 together and purchase the rest of the SEFI stuff and the master bearing kit for the Type O rebuild this Winter.
Well, I am in Saskatoon with CN and went to Precise Engines, the machine shop that promised my motor done 10 months ago. I actually got to talk to one of the machinists and they will double check the bores, since I got 4.097 to 4.098" with the calipers and check the clearances, even the mains, he pointed out that even though it spun easy, maybe they put too much clearance, if the other shop screwed up the rod bearing clearances. Hopefully not but you never know. So it looks like they are going to do it by the Aug 11 pickup date, back in for a couple of appointments for my Wife. So crossing my fingers on a completion of the machine work by next month.
I went home and tried starting my 70S after it died on my Wife. It cranked a little then clicking. I checked battery voltage, just under 12 volts. So I charge it enough to start, the alternator isn't charging. I am ordering a 124 amp CS130 to replace the Remy 105 amp. Since I ordered it on May 24/2019, it has a lifetime warranty through Rockauto. Of course through the order it shows that is no longer under warranty, except in the fine print in the bottom, it changed to 3 years on Oct 01/2030. So not so simple to do a warranty claim. So no phone number for customer service, I sent an email to their customer service. The only way I can talk to someone is a paid app! I improved a bunch of the body work I did and reprised those areas.
So I found out the 124 amp CS130 alternator has a larger case and different mounting. I have a warranty replacement coming from Rock Auto, a 105 amp CS130. Hopefully that won't be a problem to get the warranty covered, you can't directly contact them. It will arrive this week. So I also received my Rocket emblem for my Amazon steering wheel and here it what it looks like. Not bad for just over $100.
Put the new alternator on, still not charging. I found the one wire where I put a connector for some reason, came unhooked. The other alternator squeaked from new and I always like having spare parts. Reconnected, taped the connection and no more squeak.
Well, I went to the machine shop, the bad, I didn't come home with my 358 short block. The good, it is all assembled but the bill wasn't done and they had to do a couple of final checks. There were some issues with the crank now fixed. Apparently I mixed up a couple of pistons and rod orientation and a couple of rings all fixed. He suggested I send the rest of the parts for them to degree the cam and make sure geometry is spot on. Of course he showed me their dyno room and they have Olds V8's dyno headers. It is about $900 for a dyno session. Decisions to make.
Last edited by olds 307 and 403; August 11th, 2023 at 06:49 PM.
This Accel DFI EFi distributor arrived, just need lines, pump and a Terminator to complete the EFI. I will be calling the machine shop for the final short block cost later this week.
I got the TH350 out and drained. Got a new torque converter and tail shaft seal with bushing. I also have the big Transgo shift kit to install. Also have a 2000 to 2200 stall converter. It will be the back up trans till the TKX 5 speed. I also cleaned and painted the master cylinder and booster with VHT Black Engine Metallic.
So I put a Transgo 1-2 shift kit in this TH350 with red pressure regulator spring and the dual feed plate. I added the white and yellow governor springs and new cover O ring. I changed torque converter seal. That took way too long and will leave the tail shaft bushing and seal for another time. Another issue is the modulator valve diaphragm is shot. It was sucking ATF into the motor no doubt, it was losing fluid. This trans was shifting soft. Fair bit of clutch material when I first dropped the pan. Not much this time but some metal on the magnetic drain plug. Hopefully this will just be an incase the 2004R dies transmission.
Motor on the mounts, passenger header and trans is basically in place. I filled the Napa 1258 oil filter with Lucas 30W break in oil. The Canton 6 qt pan is even with the crossmember, pretty ideal.
December 26th, 2022, 12:29 PM
