'72 Cutlass LS2/6L80E build
December 31st, 2013, 06:54 AM
#41
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Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Salinas CA
Posts: 196
If i did do the swap it would have to be super on a budget.
I would love a dailly driver.
December 31st, 2013, 06:57 AM
#42
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Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Salinas CA
Posts: 196
Aces is right, I had a custom made driveshaft from Denny's Driveshaft whipped up for my car. You may be able to get away with it if you keep the engine completely stock but you still may have to change the yoke depending on if you use a 4l60 or 80 and/or shorten the driveshaft depending on trans choice and motor placement. Might as well spend the extra dough on a new one, especially if you plan on power upgrades.
December 31st, 2013, 07:14 AM
#43
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Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 54
I've read going from a turbo 350 to a 4l60 you'll have to shorten the driveshaft approx 3". Slip yokes have the same diameter and spline count so the stock one should work. So shorten the stock driveshaft, throw in some new u-joints to be on the safe side and you should be good to go.
December 31st, 2013, 06:54 PM
#44
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Join Date: May 2009
Location: USA
Posts: 2,202
That one was an all steel driveshaft though.....
These Olds driveshafts have a rubber insulated sleeve driveshaft and aren't worth bothering with
according to the driveshaft shops. If you look at this pic, you can see the shaft shrinks down in diameter
towards the left end.....thats the smaller end slid into the bigger end with some kind of rubber insulator.
I was told not to reuse mine.
January 2nd, 2014, 01:11 PM
#45
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Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Salinas CA
Posts: 196
I've read going from a turbo 350 to a 4l60 you'll have to shorten the driveshaft approx 3". Slip yokes have the same diameter and spline count so the stock one should work. So shorten the stock driveshaft, throw in some new u-joints to be on the safe side and you should be good to go.
January 2nd, 2014, 01:18 PM
#46
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Salinas CA
Posts: 196
These Olds driveshafts have a rubber insulated sleeve driveshaft and aren't worth bothering with
according to the driveshaft shops. If you look at this pic, you can see the shaft shrinks down in diameter
towards the left end.....thats the smaller end slid into the bigger end with some kind of rubber insulator.
I was told not to reuse mine.
[/QUOTE]
Good info. Where would you suggest I look for a new drive shaft? Not high dollar. for a daily driver?
according to the driveshaft shops. If you look at this pic, you can see the shaft shrinks down in diameter
towards the left end.....thats the smaller end slid into the bigger end with some kind of rubber insulator.
I was told not to reuse mine.
[/QUOTE]Good info. Where would you suggest I look for a new drive shaft? Not high dollar. for a daily driver?
January 2nd, 2014, 01:56 PM
#47
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Poteau, Ok
Posts: 40,622
Those old sleeved drive shafts are prone to the rubber disintegrating and developing vibrations. A new steel drive shaft are not that expensive and most large metro areas have places that make one up for you. I think mine was around $250 with u joints.
January 2nd, 2014, 02:04 PM
#48
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Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Salinas CA
Posts: 196
[QUOTE=oldcutlass;635589]Those old sleeved drive shafts are prone to the rubber disintegrating and developing vibrations. A new steel drive shaft are not that expensive and most large metro areas have places that make one up for you. I think mine was around $250 with u joints.[/QUOTE
Not bad. I have to find a driveshaft shop.
how about the oil pan on the 5.3 will the steering hit on oil pan? Ive read a caddy CTSV pan will clear.
Not bad. I have to find a driveshaft shop.
how about the oil pan on the 5.3 will the steering hit on oil pan? Ive read a caddy CTSV pan will clear.
January 3rd, 2014, 12:51 PM
#49
[QUOTE=70cutlass831guy;635593]
You can use a CTSV pan or F Body pan. Interference will depend on a number of things, adapter plates, motor mounts, frame mount position.
Those old sleeved drive shafts are prone to the rubber disintegrating and developing vibrations. A new steel drive shaft are not that expensive and most large metro areas have places that make one up for you. I think mine was around $250 with u joints.[/QUOTE
Not bad. I have to find a driveshaft shop.
how about the oil pan on the 5.3 will the steering hit on oil pan? Ive read a caddy CTSV pan will clear.
Not bad. I have to find a driveshaft shop.
how about the oil pan on the 5.3 will the steering hit on oil pan? Ive read a caddy CTSV pan will clear.
January 3rd, 2014, 04:42 PM
#50
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Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Salinas CA
Posts: 196
January 3rd, 2014, 05:42 PM
#51
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Ontario Canada
Posts: 43
shaft
check out these guys for a shaft. They sell steel and aluminum in 1/2 increments. Pretty reasonably priced. I bought mine through them.
I am doing something quite similar with my 71.
http://www.colemanracing.com/Drivesh...350-P3853.aspx
I am doing something quite similar with my 71.
http://www.colemanracing.com/Drivesh...350-P3853.aspx
January 3rd, 2014, 08:40 PM
#52
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Poteau, Ok
Posts: 40,622
Whats with this statement at the bottom of the ad??
These driveshafts offer an 8-lb. weight savings over standard steel shafts and are rebuildable. WARNING: These driveshafts are not for street use or drag racing.
These driveshafts offer an 8-lb. weight savings over standard steel shafts and are rebuildable. WARNING: These driveshafts are not for street use or drag racing.
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