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Good stuff. If/when I blow up the 403 in my '77, this is probably going to be the way I go. I'm already familiar with the platform and parts are a dime a dozen. Well...used parts. I got thrown out of some Oldsmobile racing Facebook group when I answered someone who asked "Why would anyone want to go with a junk LS motor". I responded "Some people like going fast"..... Grown adults got real poopoo face at that comment. It's hard to replace reliability with originality and the building anxiety when you get more than 15 miles from your house wondering if you're gonna make it home that day. haha.
Good stuff. If/when I blow up the 403 in my '77, this is probably going to be the way I go. I'm already familiar with the platform and parts are a dime a dozen. Well...used parts. I got thrown out of some Oldsmobile racing Facebook group when I answered someone who asked "Why would anyone want to go with a junk LS motor". I responded "Some people like going fast"..... Grown adults got real poopoo face at that comment. It's hard to replace reliability with originality and the building anxiety when you get more than 15 miles from your house wondering if you're gonna make it home that day. haha.
Very true!!! Im going to check my car out today...
If you guys want to use LS motors that is your business. No question they are good motors. But if you want to come on here and bash Oldsmobile motors maybe you should go to the Chevelle forum. If you can't get performance and reliability out of an Olds engine you are not doing something right. There are plenty of us that get more than 15 miles from home with no worries.
I have to agree. How many Oldsmobile's among plenty of others rolled over the odometer. That didn't happen with 15 mile drives. Definitely to each their own. This thread is nails on a chalkboard for many many of us Oldsmobile fans. W-30 ragtop gets the original engine pulled and sold off...🤯
I have to agree. How many Oldsmobile's among plenty of others rolled over the odometer. That didn't happen with 15 mile drives. Definitely to each their own. This thread is nails on a chalkboard for many many of us Oldsmobile fans. W-30 ragtop gets the original engine pulled and sold off...🤯
Well i got to listen to it today..It is bad ***!!! It won't let me upload the video....Maybe is if i do it on youtube???
And no, it is not done yet....This was just the first fire up...
You may get a lot of mean comments from the purists, which I somewhat understand, as I also often do my best to preserve history.
... but I've done a few LS swaps & have never regretted one of them.
Don't sweat it, do what makes you happy.
I never hesitated to replace the 180hp 305 in my Firebird or the V6 in my S10.
The point is, I made the vehicle better afterwards & if you can increase your fun driving the car, it's all worth it.
You built a very serious engine & I think you will love the power it produces.
Well here is an update..Car has been out of the shop for over a month now and man does it have some *****!!! I still have not opened the throttle past 25% yet and it does a burn out...Im on my 2nd break in oil change so far..I got another 1000 more miles to go before i can use the oil of my choice...How EVER, it goes back to the shop for the beefed up 4L60E trans and improved cooling system.I still can't drive in bumper to bumper because the temp's are reaching 250 degrees again!!! The current system i have now is made by BE-COOL with 3500 CFM..Even if i let it idle for 10-min's, it will 250+ degrees!! UHG!! So im having DELTA-PAG out of N.Y. build me a custom cooling system that should solve this problem.It will produce 5200 CFM..So for now im pleased with everything so far...I will keep you guy's posted in a few weeks.. https://deltapag.com/
Last edited by COBRA2000; March 25th, 2022 at 01:12 PM.
Reason: miss spelling
Aren't the LS easy to cool? Your fans are probably the issue, many are way overrated. Something like a Derale or factory dual fans would probably fix your issue. Also be careful at 582 HP the 4L60E better have every upgrade and a good warranty. I still curious about the torque curve on this motor. Good luck.
Aren't the LS easy to cool? Your fans are probably the issue, many are way overrated. Something like a Derale or factory dual fans would probably fix your issue. Also be careful at 582 HP the 4L60E better have every upgrade and a good warranty. I still curious about the torque curve on this motor. Good luck.
Yes it will be a beefed up tranny..I don't remember the torque curve..You can watch the dyno video in the earlier post...The new cooling system im getting will be 5200-CFM..
Your radiator looks gigantic... It doesn't seem like it should be a problem.
Does it stay cool on the highway?
Are both fans running full time?
Where are your vent lines from the cylinder heads plumbed to?
It stays in the 220 degree range at 70 MPH...And yes, both fans are on when temp's hit 200..I have a feeling that there is something wrong with this cooling system because i had the same problem with the 455 engine...Vent lines are plumbed too..
Last edited by COBRA2000; March 26th, 2022 at 06:44 AM.
Reason: additional info
I agree, you should not have a cooling problem or need a custom cooling system. I have a 4,000 CFM Derale on a cheap eBay radiator. A/C condenser with the same area as the radiator in front as well as a 40,000 GVW trans cooler and a huge power steering/ hydraboost cooler above that. Motor runs at a constant 185 - 200/210. I have the fans turn on to high speed when the engine temp gets to 200 or 210 (full battery voltage to each fan wired in parallel). The engine temp drops imediately as soon as the fans kick on. I have the fans turn on in low speed whenever the A/C is on (fans wired in series to full battery voltage). When A/C is on, the fans run in low speed until the motor gets to the high temp limit and the fans switch to high speed. I had a lot of trouble keeping my trans and hydrapoost system cool which is why I am running the huge coolers for each of them in front of the condenser, but engine temps are not an issue.
I agree, you should not have a cooling problem or need a custom cooling system. I have a 4,000 CFM Derale on a cheap eBay radiator. A/C condenser with the same area as the radiator in front as well as a 40,000 GVW trans cooler and a huge power steering/ hydraboost cooler above that. Motor runs at a constant 185 - 200/210. I have the fans turn on to high speed when the engine temp gets to 200 or 210 (full battery voltage to each fan wired in parallel). The engine temp drops imediately as soon as the fans kick on. I have the fans turn on in low speed whenever the A/C is on (fans wired in series to full battery voltage). When A/C is on, the fans run in low speed until the motor gets to the high temp limit and the fans switch to high speed. I had a lot of trouble keeping my trans and hydrapoost system cool which is why I am running the huge coolers for each of them in front of the condenser, but engine temps are not an issue.
Very cool..So what vehicle do you have this system in??? And what motor?? PS: I think another part of my problem is my system is not shrouded...
While it is a 5.7 (350) not a 408 and it is making about 100 horsepower less than your LQ9, I still don't think you should be having cooling issues like you are having. Have you talked to Golden Egine Service to get their thoughts on the cooling issues? Do you have the plastic air dam that goes between the front bumper and core support installed?
I was not runing one when I first put my wagon back together and putting it back on (along with a lot of other changes) helped get the trans temp down.
Last edited by Loaded68W34; March 26th, 2022 at 03:08 PM.
While it is a 5.7 (350) not a 408 and it is making about 100 horsepower less than your LQ9, I still don't think you should be having cooling issues like you are having. Have you talked to Golden Egine Service to get their thoughts on the cooling issues? Do you have the plastic air dam that goes between the front bumper and core support installed?
I was not runing one when I first put my wagon back together and putting it back on (along with a lot of other changes) helped get the trans temp down.
I do have the plastic under carriage installed...Well i drove it today with 90-deree weather here in TEXAS....The way America used to be..UGH!!! But anyway she ran in the 230's without the AC on....Ran it with AC on and it ran in low 240" s..Freaking nut"s!! And get this, my turbo-400 get's stuck in 1st gear and reverse!!! And that's when the temp hit's 240 Those are the only 2-option gears i have when it run's hot....******* FRUSTRAITING!!!
Are you running a full manual valve body, or does it still have a vacuum modulator to control the shifts? Last summer, the 400 in my Chevelle would not shift out of first gear. The vacuum line had fallen off of my modulator (I put it back on and all was well). You may want to check the amount of vacuum and the vacuum line itself going to the modulator. If that is not the problem, you will want to find a way to measure the trans temp. My first step on the engine overheating issue would be to see what kind of air flow you are pulling through the radiator. Use a piece of paper, etc and place it in front of the radiator while the fans are running to see if they are pulling air. At this point, it would not be a bad idea to do a pressure test on the cooling system as well. If you do not have a pressure tester, you can rent one from an auto parts store. Put 15 lbs or so in the system and see if it holds pressure to make sure it did not blow a head gasket from the previous over heating issues.
A digital temp gun is another handy tool in a situation like this. You can check the actual temp at the water pump, heads, radiator (top, middle, and bottom), etc. You can get a cheap one like this through harbor freight or amazon
The temp gun will let you know if your temp readings are accurate, if your radiator is cooling, and if the water pump is working.
Another area to check are the steam crossovers at the top of the heads. I can see you have a hose running from the steam ports in the front along the radiator hose to your radiator, but you should also bleed those to make sure there are no air pockets in the cooling system at the top of the engine. If all 4 ports are connected, bleeding one front should be enough, but if the rears are blocked off, I would bleed them individually as well. Simply crack the bolt holding the fiting to the head loose until coolant comes out and then tighten them.
Hope this helps. I realize it is frustrating having spent that much money on a fresh motor not to mention labor, but it will be awesome in the end. One thing that naysayers do not realize is that these motors rev extremely fast which makes for a very fun "rocket".
Last edited by Loaded68W34; March 26th, 2022 at 08:56 PM.
Another possible issue is the heater hose bypass out of the water pump. There seems to be some debate on whether or not it is OK to block off the heater hose ports on these motors. The LS water pump was designed to allow continuous flow through these ports. Some guys say that blocking them off will cause temp issues. Others say that it does not matter. A lot of guys run one of these hoses when not running a heater core:
Personally, I did not think it was worth taking a chance on this, so I made an "H" pipe to allow continuous flow through the heater hoses even when the the vintage air hot water valve was closed. You can see the H pipe I made from 2 barbed tee fittings and a brass coupler in the pics below.
I saw that the shop installed a vacuum operated heater valve to replace the original that would have been mounted in the intake. I think it is safe to assume that since you got the car back this valve has been closed and therefore no coolant is flowing through the heater hose ports on the water pump.
An easy test would be to run the car with the heat on (allowing coolant to flow through the heater hoses) to see if that helps bring the temps down at all. Like I said, there does not seem to be a definitive answer as to whether or not blocking coolant flow through those ports on the water pump is an issue, but at this point turning the heat on is a very simple test.
Last edited by Loaded68W34; March 26th, 2022 at 09:19 PM.
I have a 4 port water valve on my LS 3 that automatically bypasses when heat is turned off. Very simple and avoids the issue. There is no way your fans are turning backwards, is there?. Hah.
Are you running a full manual valve body, or does it still have a vacuum modulator to control the shifts? Last summer, the 400 in my Chevelle would not shift out of first gear. The vacuum line had fallen off of my modulator (I put it back on and all was well). You may want to check the amount of vacuum and the vacuum line itself going to the modulator. If that is not the problem, you will want to find a way to measure the trans temp. My first step on the engine overheating issue would be to see what kind of air flow you are pulling through the radiator. Use a piece of paper, etc and place it in front of the radiator while the fans are running to see if they are pulling air. At this point, it would not be a bad idea to do a pressure test on the cooling system as well. If you do not have a pressure tester, you can rent one from an auto parts store. Put 15 lbs or so in the system and see if it holds pressure to make sure it did not blow a head gasket from the previous over heating issues.
A digital temp gun is another handy tool in a situation like this. You can check the actual temp at the water pump, heads, radiator (top, middle, and bottom), etc. You can get a cheap one like this through harbor freight or amazon
The temp gun will let you know if your temp readings are accurate, if your radiator is cooling, and if the water pump is working.
Another area to check are the steam crossovers at the top of the heads. I can see you have a hose running from the steam ports in the front along the radiator hose to your radiator, but you should also bleed those to make sure there are no air pockets in the cooling system at the top of the engine. If all 4 ports are connected, bleeding one front should be enough, but if the rears are blocked off, I would bleed them individually as well. Simply crack the bolt holding the fiting to the head loose until coolant comes out and then tighten them.
Hope this helps. I realize it is frustrating having spent that much money on a fresh motor not to mention labor, but it will be awesome in the end. One thing that naysayers do not realize is that these motors rev extremely fast which makes for a very fun "rocket".
It is the vacum one..I did check the vacum pressure and it stays the same...I even tapped into a different vacum port and still same problem...But i will have my mechanic check the vacum ports...
I have a 4 port water valve on my LS 3 that automatically bypasses when heat is turned off. Very simple and avoids the issue. There is no way your fans are turning backwards, is there?. Hah.
It is the vacum one..I did check the vacum pressure and it stays the same...I even tapped into a different vacum port and still same problem...But i will have my mechanic check the vacum ports...
Obviously the 400 will not be an issue once you put in the electronic 4 speed auto. You should check the trans temp when it only has 1st and reverse.
Are you running a full manual valve body, or does it still have a vacuum modulator to control the shifts? Last summer, the 400 in my Chevelle would not shift out of first gear. The vacuum line had fallen off of my modulator (I put it back on and all was well). You may want to check the amount of vacuum and the vacuum line itself going to the modulator. If that is not the problem, you will want to find a way to measure the trans temp. My first step on the engine overheating issue would be to see what kind of air flow you are pulling through the radiator. Use a piece of paper, etc and place it in front of the radiator while the fans are running to see if they are pulling air. At this point, it would not be a bad idea to do a pressure test on the cooling system as well. If you do not have a pressure tester, you can rent one from an auto parts store. Put 15 lbs or so in the system and see if it holds pressure to make sure it did not blow a head gasket from the previous over heating issues.
A digital temp gun is another handy tool in a situation like this. You can check the actual temp at the water pump, heads, radiator (top, middle, and bottom), etc. You can get a cheap one like this through harbor freight or amazon
The temp gun will let you know if your temp readings are accurate, if your radiator is cooling, and if the water pump is working.
Another area to check are the steam crossovers at the top of the heads. I can see you have a hose running from the steam ports in the front along the radiator hose to your radiator, but you should also bleed those to make sure there are no air pockets in the cooling system at the top of the engine. If all 4 ports are connected, bleeding one front should be enough, but if the rears are blocked off, I would bleed them individually as well. Simply crack the bolt holding the fiting to the head loose until coolant comes out and then tighten them.
Hope this helps. I realize it is frustrating having spent that much money on a fresh motor not to mention labor, but it will be awesome in the end. One thing that naysayers do not realize is that these motors rev extremely fast which makes for a very fun "rocket".
Should the engine be warm and running when I bleed the steam tube??? Or should It be at operating temp and also have the engine running??? Or engine turned off??? I have no experience in doing this..
January 13th, 2022, 05:51 AM
