Official? big block Omega thread :)
#162
Bought the pedals and linkage at a swap meet for 75 bucks. The guy said he bought them for a 68 nova, put them in, then decided to go automatic, so they are brand new basically. Looks like the pedal kit ss396 sells for around 169. That being said, there website says 68 to 72, but the brake pedal is the same shape as the brake pedal i pulled out of my 74. so im sure the only major differences in those years are linkage. Also the clutch pedal lines right up with the hole that is already punched into the firewall for the linkage, but im probably gonna go hydraulic
looks like this kit to me
http://www.ss396.com/mm5/merchant.mv..._Code=FMCK-69S
looks like this kit to me
http://www.ss396.com/mm5/merchant.mv..._Code=FMCK-69S
#165
I didnt have plans to change the sub frame, what is an "F" body subframe? are you refering to a front steer subframe? if so, those dont fit without a lot of modifications. I did end up getting a rack and pinion kit off ebay for the steering issues these have
#166
Figured out what im gonna do with the clutch linkage I think, also planning on making a trip to the local pull a part this weekend, see if i cant find some things I need. Ive been sick so i havent made much progress, did take the tailcone off the T56 and took it to my machinist friend to get worked on ( converting to a cable drive, bought the parts from Jagsthatrun, they dont do the machining anymore apparantly ? :S)
#167
this thread is not dead! Just been busy with things (mostly omega related) second guessing my color choice though, thinking about blue now, i just dont know! im starting to like the aegean auqa a lot, and it was a special order color in 70, so I know theres no omega running around with a color like that.
#168
Ok update time, finally got out to do some work to the omega, for starters, the girlfriend got me an early Xmas present a nos Oldsmobile omega key tag, don't know what year, but it's still b.a.
1115122233.jpg
Got the sub frame out and stripped, gonna get it powder coated
1118121922.jpg
Found this once I got it all apart, luckily I picked up disc brakes and control arms this weekend
1118121912.jpg
1115122233.jpg
Got the sub frame out and stripped, gonna get it powder coated
1118121922.jpg
Found this once I got it all apart, luckily I picked up disc brakes and control arms this weekend
1118121912.jpg
#169
So ive been in astoria since wednesday, no work on the omega, however before I left I tore apart all the stuff I got, the control arm i need to replace is the wrong one, someone rigged an A body control arm or something in there, cause its completely different, the disc brakes are also A body, but you can change the steering arms to make them work
#170
#171
Wonder if the Omega smacked a curb? They mentioned needing an alignment when I bought it. What an understatement!
Any color on that car would go well. Blue sounds nice. However skip the red fender wells if you paint it red.(IMO) Which doesn't sound like it.
The reason I say that is mismatched red combo is nasty and a matched red and red would be very eighties.
I'll watch Seattle CL for A-arms.
Any color on that car would go well. Blue sounds nice. However skip the red fender wells if you paint it red.(IMO) Which doesn't sound like it.
The reason I say that is mismatched red combo is nasty and a matched red and red would be very eighties.
I'll watch Seattle CL for A-arms.
#172
Wonder if the Omega smacked a curb? They mentioned needing an alignment when I bought it. What an understatement!
Any color on that car would go well. Blue sounds nice. However skip the red fender wells if you paint it red.(IMO) Which doesn't sound like it.
The reason I say that is mismatched red combo is nasty and a matched red and red would be very eighties.
I'll watch Seattle CL for A-arms.
Any color on that car would go well. Blue sounds nice. However skip the red fender wells if you paint it red.(IMO) Which doesn't sound like it.
The reason I say that is mismatched red combo is nasty and a matched red and red would be very eighties.
I'll watch Seattle CL for A-arms.
On the color side of things, heres my issue. I like red, but like you said the red fender wells dont go well with red body color. so thats out
I saw a silver 1970 nova in my recent car craft issue, and it was ugly. I dont think that body style goes well with that color like the A body does, so im starting to think thats out.
I really like the special order blue color the aegean aqua or whatever its called, but my engine is blue, and i think that will take away from the shiny engine, also I wanted to paint the metal part of my dash to match, and a blue dash bugs me.
That being said im kinda thinking about a bronze, or dark green, both are kinda different, but darker colors, and i really like a bright color that stands out. I need to get photoshop and do some work i think.
So im thinking ming jade poly, aegean auqa, or nugget gold. any thoughts? i think those would look good with the red fender wells. I google the colors and try to imagine, but like i said, i need photoshop.
I could also paint it red white and blue!
#173
I need help deciding on color, i think ive narrowed it down to these two, also i have no idea what these colors are, anyone have the color code information? when I get paint, im gonna go to wesco about 30 miles away and get the proper gm color made
first color
first color
#174
well crap, i cant make the image work, i googled 70 442, and they have a gold color on some, and a dark green on some. i like those two colors, any idea what they are? (i know this got stupid haha oh well)
#177
#180
cool thanks guys, im gonna sleep on it, (got some time, still need to sand car), but ill probably go with that green, i want something that will look good with red fender wells, and wont drown out the blue of the engine when the hood it open. I think this will be sweet.
#182
Hey railguy before you asked me what pedals I used for doing the conversion to manual, did you see I answered you? It was a setup from a nova
#183
no Im gonna go with a color that was available on a 70 model year car (442 for example) because I like those colors better, I think the options in 74 were a little more.. bleck haha!
Hey railguy before you asked me what pedals I used for doing the conversion to manual, did you see I answered you? It was a setup from a nova
Hey railguy before you asked me what pedals I used for doing the conversion to manual, did you see I answered you? It was a setup from a nova
railguy
#185
Are you still needing the A arms?
I replaced mine with lowered tubular arms and the factory ones are in great shape, ball joints and bushings still look good but should be replaced due to age...
I replaced mine with lowered tubular arms and the factory ones are in great shape, ball joints and bushings still look good but should be replaced due to age...
#186
#187
Well I really only need 1, I need the lower driver side. Mine is completely trashed, I would love it If you could hook me up with one, the only problem is im in Washington state, make me an offer I cant refuse, and If shipping doesnt kill me, I think we can work out a deal!
#188
Got a lot of sanding done this weekend, I also got most of the floor peeled up, I got my input shaft, waiting for adapter plate, gonna bolt engine and trans and build a crossmember to mount trans and modify tunnel this week and upcoming weekend.
#189
You lose your camera?
#191
popped the front off trans to change input
0120131738.jpg
0120131738.jpg
#192
new input shaft on the right
inputshaft_zps77ee9968.jpg
inputshaft_zps77ee9968.jpg
#193
starting to mock up the sub frame, tomorrow ill throw trans on and start building a crossmember
overhead_zpsb5b9ca6e.jpg
toronado pan clears rack and pinion!
passside_zps56b7b09c.jpg
here's the driver side, and they said you need a milodon pan!
driverside_zps4941b497.jpg
overhead_zpsb5b9ca6e.jpg
toronado pan clears rack and pinion!
passside_zps56b7b09c.jpg
here's the driver side, and they said you need a milodon pan!
driverside_zps4941b497.jpg
#194
searching around the net after getting my adapter plate for the t56, I found out everyone was buying LS style mid plates to mount the adapter to, I have the LT style, my initial thought was to cut this piece, and when i called the gearbox, they said the same, dont need to spend money on a stupid LS mid plate!
774940_10152440974680158_1971831342_o.jpg
adapter bolted to bellhousing
792277_10152443593575158_623543817_o.jpg
heres the whole setup on the sub frame, next is build a crossmember and see how much i have to take out of the floor!
798176_10152443941895158_259714966_o.jpg
774940_10152440974680158_1971831342_o.jpg
adapter bolted to bellhousing
792277_10152443593575158_623543817_o.jpg
heres the whole setup on the sub frame, next is build a crossmember and see how much i have to take out of the floor!
798176_10152443941895158_259714966_o.jpg
#195
Oh i forgot to mention the best part, with this setup, i bolted everything together and the input shaft is about a half of an inch too short, soooo, I DONT HAVE TO DRILL THE CRANKSHAFT HAHAHAHAHAHA... i was excited. I just need to get a big bronze bushing and beat it into the back of the crank!
#197
If memory serves, when I was an Olds parts guy in the 70's we sold a pilot bearing for the stick shift cars... If I remember correctly, the part number was 907321. Is that still the case?
I do believe the bushing and bearing were interchangeable however.
I do believe the bushing and bearing were interchangeable however.
#198
lol, that almost sounds a bit sarcastic! although its hard to tell over text! haha
Not sure, But I measured .590 on the pilot, and 1.704 on the crank, after much searching I found a popular bushing for swapping an old chev from a turbo glide (not powerglide) to a standard trans, the part number was PB656R, however no one can get one, somehow after much searching I found McLeod racing makes the same bushing but its 8617 from them, regardless the diameters are .592 and 1.709, and its slightly extended so you can trim if you need too. cant wait to see if it works!
Not sure, But I measured .590 on the pilot, and 1.704 on the crank, after much searching I found a popular bushing for swapping an old chev from a turbo glide (not powerglide) to a standard trans, the part number was PB656R, however no one can get one, somehow after much searching I found McLeod racing makes the same bushing but its 8617 from them, regardless the diameters are .592 and 1.709, and its slightly extended so you can trim if you need too. cant wait to see if it works!
#200
Sorry, not meant to be sarcastic at all. I just think you think out of the box at times and I admire that. Maybe it's that I've never been a numbers matching guy and I like new ideas. No sarcasm intended.