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I'm going to leave nothing to assumptions. As I stated on your YouTube channel and on this thread, your firing order is 18736542 CCW. I don't know if you did or you did not remove spark plug wires (I assume nothing). Make sure they're hooked up correctly on the distributor cap CCW - 18736542 (firing order as forged into the top of your intake manifold).
I'm going to leave nothing to assumptions. As I stated on your YouTube channel and on this thread, your firing order is 18736542 CCW. I don't know if you did or you did not remove spark plug wires (I assume nothing). Make sure they're hooked up correctly on the distributor cap CCW - 18736542 (firing order as forged into the top of your intake manifold).
I got the starter figured out. And my firing order is correct! And now I got it running! Thanks guys? Man I’m never doing that again, I hope not haha. I already set dwell just waiting for it to warm up to do the rest
I got the starter figured out. And my firing order is correct! And now I got it running! Thanks guys? Man I’m never doing that again, I hope not haha. I already set dwell just waiting for it to warm up to do the rest
And, don't forget - ALWAYS in this order:
(1) Dwell
(2) Disconnect advance timing canister and cap/plug lines. Then, set timing to value described in service manual. Reconnect vacuum lines to/from advance canister after you set timing.
(3) Adjust your A/F mixture to highest achievable vacuum - one A/F mixture at a time.
Norm, there was no way I was taking a potshot at you method. Having owned a 54 for eight years I pulled the distributor more times than I would like to remember. I finally converted it to a 56 distributor with external adjustment points. That made life way better. You have been very patient and been a mentor to this your man.
Norm, there was no way I was taking a potshot at you method. Having owned a 54 for eight years I pulled the distributor more times than I would like to remember. I finally converted it to a 56 distributor with external adjustment points. That made life way better. You have been very patient and been a mentor to this your man.
yes I got that sequence down pretty good. Everything is working and running however I have a worse vacuum leak than before. The needle is jumping really fast but I’ll get it figured out. Yes you all have been great working with me. Thank you. Some guy pulled up asking to buy my car haha
Conduct the very 1st test in the upper LH corner (AGAIN). You must pass that test. If you pass that test, then move onto determining which of the additional readings pertains to your vacuum readings. Yes, I'll repeat myself. You need a "steady" vacuum reading - the needle should not be bouncing around rapidly. By now, you should have determined your correct intake manifold vacuum attachment/connection is obtained from the back of the carburetor w/ all other ports on both the intake manifold and the carburetor capped/plugged. Again, you can insert a "T" into the back line if you like, to get your readings. And, let's face it, a 70 year old engine is quite likely to require new valve guides. If it does, there is absolutely no possible manner you can make ANY adjustments whatsoever to resolve that issue, if it is that issue. You'll simply need new valve guides.
Now, with that said, you appear to want to obtain the best performance from your engine and you want to obtain this performance on your own. Therefore, you are going to need to step back on this a minute. You are going to have to perform a basic dry/wet compression test of each of your cylinders. This is a requirement if you want ANY indication of the health & performance capabilities of your engine. There is no guessing about any fuzziness about this (unless you enjoy pissing in the wind). Once you perform a wet/dry compression test, you'll best be able to determine what direction you need to move going forward. You may find a full "leak down test" is your next test. But, let's not get too far ahead here. Both the dry/wet compression test & the leak down test you can do on your own. You just need the correct gauges.
Conduct the very 1st test in the upper LH corner (AGAIN). You must pass that test. If you pass that test, then move onto determining which of the additional readings pertains to your vacuum readings. Yes, I'll repeat myself. You need a "steady" vacuum reading - the needle should not be bouncing around rapidly. By now, you should have determined your correct intake manifold vacuum attachment/connection is obtained from the back of the carburetor w/ all other ports on both the intake manifold and the carburetor capped/plugged. Again, you can insert a "T" into the back line if you like, to get your readings. And, let's face it, a 70 year old engine is quite likely to require new valve guides. If it does, there is absolutely no possible manner you can make ANY adjustments whatsoever to resolve that issue, if it is that issue. You'll simply need new valve guides.
Now, with that said, you appear to want to obtain the best performance from your engine and you want to obtain this performance on your own. Therefore, you are going to need to step back on this a minute. You are going to have to perform a basic dry/wet compression test of each of your cylinders. This is a requirement if you want ANY indication of the health & performance capabilities of your engine. There is no guessing about any fuzziness about this (unless you enjoy pissing in the wind). Once you perform a wet/dry compression test, you'll best be able to determine what direction you need to move going forward. You may find a full "leak down test" is your next test. But, let's not get too far ahead here. Both the dry/wet compression test & the leak down test you can do on your own. You just need the correct gauges.
So you’re talking about the valves that open and close for compression and exhaust. What is this compression test going to tell me about my engine when it’s done?
So you’re talking about the valves that open and close for compression and exhaust. What is this compression test going to tell me about my engine when it’s done?
The valves are referred to as intake valves & exhaust valves. The valves must be seated to provide a seal e.g. the cylinder must be sealed so A/F mixture does not escape (the A/F mixture remains w/in the cylinder) & exhaust is allowed to escape at the appropriate timing. When valves are properly sealed at the correct timing, the engine can achieve optimum compression. If the valves are not sealed, you will not achieve maximum compression, you lose compression and you lose performance (both HP & Torque). The engine is inefficient.
If the valve guides have deteriorated, the valves can wobble side-to-side, one side seated, the other not seated, allowing incomplete compression w/ an ensuing loss of power & performance. The same can be said if the valves are burnt, A/F compression mixture is not retained (it escapes) &/or exhaust gases are not vented, resulting in loss of power & performance. If the cylinder wall(s) are scorched &/or pitted, &/or the piston ring(s) are broken, cracked, pitted, scorched, etc. A/F mixture can escape resulting in loss of power & performance (the primary reason you conduct both a dry & a wet compression test). The piston(s) can be worn, pits, holes in the piston(s) can contribute to loss of power & performance.
Hopefully you realized you changed the head gasket for a reason since most don't decide its something they think should be done w/o reason. If the head gasket is broken, cracked, separated, etc. it will not provide a sealed containment area for compression to take place & you will lose compression. The exact same is true of your cylinders. They must be sealed as tightly as possible to gain the optimum power & performance from each compression stroke of each cylinder. Intake & exhaust valves must be seated & sealed.
Basic valve seal diagram. During each stroke of the piston, the valves must be open at the correct timing & they must be seated and sealed at the correct timing. If they are not, you lose compression & loss of power & performance.
I should point out, a compression test is the first test you should perform; although, a leak down test is a better test. You'll need an air compressor for a leak down test, you don't require an air compressor for a dry/wet compression test. I'd suggest you first perform a compression test. If you had a more serious issue with regards to engine performance in "general" very, very sluggish, cannot achieve basic power & performance in most driving conditions, acceleration, on a flat terrain is sluggish, no power, little power, significant hesitation(s)...there is a chance the timing chain is extremely loose & the possibility the timing chain has "jumped" it is not aligned w/ the crankshaft. This can also yield a loss of power/performance but generally presents itself as the inability to find any significant point in defining timing of the engine. It doesn't (at this point) appear the timing chain is an issue.
But here again, don't get too far ahead of yourself. You need to completely seal your exhaust manifolds to the engine. You already know you have broken exhaust manifold bolts and we've discussed this - so, properly install your exhaust manifolds.
I should point out, a compression test is the first test you should perform; although, a leak down test is a better test. You'll need an air compressor for a leak down test, you don't require an air compressor for a dry/wet compression test. I'd suggest you first perform a compression test. If you had a more serious issue with regards to engine performance in "general" very, very sluggish, cannot achieve basic power & performance in most driving conditions, acceleration, on a flat terrain is sluggish, no power, little power, significant hesitation(s)...there is a chance the timing chain is extremely loose & the possibility the timing chain has "jumped" it is not aligned w/ the crankshaft. This can also yield a loss of power/performance but generally presents itself as the inability to find any significant point in defining timing of the engine. It doesn't (at this point) appear the timing chain is an issue.
But here again, don't get too far ahead of yourself. You need to completely seal your exhaust manifolds to the engine. You already know you have broken exhaust manifold bolts and we've discussed this - so, properly install your exhaust manifolds.
thank you for the visual. I see what you mean. I have an air compressor now but it’s only a 3 gallon. I’ll see if I can get a compression tester. When I had the heads off I did notice any pitting or anything not even smudge marks they were very clean and rings seemed to be good too. On the bottom of the heads all the valves looked to be seated well. They were a little black but I cleaned it up. I guess what I’m asking is, how is compression test going to tell me if a valve is bad? If it’s low compression couldn’t it be the rings as well? And yes I am going to get those exhaust bolts figured out first. Hypothetically worse case scenario what’s the hardest parts to replace valves or valve guides on my engine ?
thank you for the visual. I see what you mean. I have an air compressor now but it’s only a 3 gallon. I’ll see if I can get a compression tester. When I had the heads off I did notice any pitting or anything not even smudge marks they were very clean and rings seemed to be good too. On the bottom of the heads all the valves looked to be seated well. They were a little black but I cleaned it up. I guess what I’m asking is, how is compression test going to tell me if a valve is bad? If it’s low compression couldn’t it be the rings as well? And yes I am going to get those exhaust bolts figured out first. Hypothetically worse case scenario what’s the hardest parts to replace valves or valve guides on my engine ?
If a dry compression test of a particular cylinder reads (example) 110psi, when you squirt an ounce of oil into the same cylinder, perform another reading of the same cylinder & the reading increases to say (example) 130psi, it's most likely going to be piston ring(s) as the oil provides a temporary seal between a piston ring and the cylinder wall which would effectively "seal" that area and cause the compression reading to increase. Albeit, suggesting gap(s) between ring(s) & cylinder wall.
...how is compression test going to tell me if a valve is bad? Hypothetically worse case scenario what’s the hardest parts to replace valves or valve guides on my engine ?
A compression won't tell you specifically if a valve is bad. However, a leak down test won't tell you specifically if a valve is bad. And, neither test will tell you which valve is bad (if a valve is, in fact, bad). It may very well be valve guides. Using the basic tools, you have to pick your poison on which is the most important and likely least expensive method to determine the next direction in diagnostics. I already addressed dry/wet compression test which most often demonstrates an issue with rings. But, let's be clear about something, you don't even KNOW what your compression is for ANY cylinder at all. That's the first place to begin. I'm nearly positive I have already discussed this w/ you previously and you need to start reading how this plays out in order of discussion. I could be wrong about this, but I'm nearly 100% I've discussed compression with you.
I have an air compressor now but it’s only a 3 gallon. I’ll see if I can get a compression tester.
Regarding performance of a leak down test.
You might get away w/ a 3 gal. air compressor. I think a 3 gal. delivers 125psi. You aren't going to be delivering compressed air for any extended length of time. You're measuring the delta (difference) between psi going in and psi NOT escaping. If the value (psi) of compressed air going INTO the cylinder is 100psi, and the value (psi) of compressed air NOT escaping is 100 psi, then you have no leakage. However, if the value (psi) of compressed air going INTO the cylinder is 100 psi & the value (psi) of compressed NOT escaping is 80psi, you have a 20% loss of compression in that cylinder. A compression loss of >20% is significant. Generally speaking, for most engines, you should be able to tolerate <10% loss/cylinder. Obviously, the optimum is zero (0%) loss.
I've provided you w/ ample points of discussion regarding compression in both Post 78 & Post 79.
yes you’d right we talk about this a lot and I’m just figuring what the best cheapest test is next and that’s compression. Let me figure out this exhaust bolt thing first. I did a lot of work on my car this past couple months I may take a couple days off
yes you’d right we talk about this a lot and I’m just figuring what the best cheapest test is next and that’s compression. Let me figure out this exhaust bolt thing first. I did a lot of work on my car this past couple months I may take a couple days off
Fully understand. You're tearing right into it - good on you for delving into addressing your issues. You're learning a significant amount in a short period of time. Take a break, step back & catch your breath. You're doing fine - it's like a puzzle. Some are 50 pieces, some are 500 pieces.
You might get away w/ a 3 gal. air compressor. I think a 3 gal. delivers 125psi. You aren't going to be delivering compressed air for any extended length of time. You're measuring the delta (difference) between psi going in and psi NOT escaping. If the value (psi) of compressed air going INTO the cylinder is 100psi, and the value (psi) of compressed air NOT escaping is 100 psi, then you have no leakage. However, if the value (psi) of compressed air going INTO the cylinder is 100 psi & the value (psi) of compressed NOT escaping is 80psi, you have a 20% loss of compression in that cylinder. A compression loss of >20% is significant. Generally speaking, for most engines, you should be able to tolerate <10% loss/cylinder. Obviously, the optimum is zero (0%) loss.
that’s one way of checking compression. I think my engine is obviously going to not hold 100% psi so a compression check would be better for now. Yeah it’s a lot to learn and do all in my gravel driveway out in the winter but I’m pretty determined in all I do. A few days ago I pulled oil pan because the gasket was leaking but it’s all sealed up good now. Anyways I knew awhile ago I had a rear main seal leak so now that the the front of the pain is not leaking, that rear main seal is leaking even more and I’m just thinking to myself, ***** because that’s one I can NOT fix. Because I’m told you have to remove the whole crankshaft. Anyways after discovering this bigger leak I’m so exhausted with this car
that’s one way of checking compression. I think my engine is obviously going to not hold 100% psi so a compression check would be better for now. Yeah it’s a lot to learn and do all in my gravel driveway out in the winter but I’m pretty determined in all I do. A few days ago I pulled oil pan because the gasket was leaking but it’s all sealed up good now. Anyways I knew awhile ago I had a rear main seal leak so now that the the front of the pain is not leaking, that rear main seal is leaking even more and I’m just thinking to myself, ***** because that’s one I can NOT fix. Because I’m told you have to remove the whole crankshaft. Anyways after discovering this bigger leak I’m so exhausted with this car
I'm not 100% you need to pull the crankshaft to change your rear main bearing seal. I don't know your engine assembly well enough to provide you w/ any informed decision on changing the rear main bearing seal. Your service manual should state specifically what is required. As well, ask others on this forum - I can suggest several who have excellent knowledge regarding changing the rear main bearing seal of a 324 cid.
Listen, don't despair. I've gained some comfort seeing and understanding where you are in this. You're a couple centuries removed from a showroom head turning 1955 Oldsmobile. Don't despair.
I've helped to change some very large rear main bearing seals on some large big *** farm machinery crankshafts - yeah, you have to lift the crank to change those seals but again, don't despair here, we're talking about a 1955 324 cid engine which is small compared to a large tractor main bearing. I changed the main in my 71 CS without removing the crankshaft - it was annoying and difficult, but it was manageable and it can be done. You might get away without removing the crankshaft on yours. Hang in there and until then don't despair. You're driving the car 10 miles to 20 miles each week. You're not cruising from New York to Los Angeles and you're not driving 50 miles - 100 miles each day to work and back.
I don't know what material your main bearing seal is made from. Many of these older beasts the rear main bearing seal is nothing more than rope and I don't know what "type" of rope for an OEM 324 cid engine (I could most likely look this up but so can you). Rope, as in plant-based material; as in, sisal, cotton, jute and manila. The fibers are twisted or braided together to produce strong rope. Sometimes these ropes are impregnated with various types of silicone, or other compounds - I'm not a rope fabricator. But again, don't despair.
(1) Put a piece of cardboard down or a large oven sheet under the main seal to catch any oil;
(2) If you're referring to "nuisance" oil; which, I suspect you are, don't despair. Continually check your oil level and continually top off your oil level. Eventually, one day/some day you'll get to it, until that time, it's a drip, not a pouring leak (right?), leave it be and ensure you have oil in the engine.
well I say the crank has to be dropped cuz this other guy who has the same engine said that’s what has to be done. It’s just drip yes. I haven’t checked my manual but I will. I don’t know what the ropes are made out of either but I do have them they came in the overhaul engine Haley kit I bought awhile back and been slowly using each gaskets fixing this beast. And I’m guessing there’s nothing I can put in my engine to slow or stop this leak?
well I say the crank has to be dropped cuz this other guy who has the same engine said that’s what has to be done. It’s just drip yes. I haven’t checked my manual but I will. I don’t know what the ropes are made out of either but I do have them they came in the overhaul engine Haley kit I bought awhile back and been slowly using each gaskets fixing this beast. And I’m guessing there’s nothing I can put in my engine to slow or stop this leak?
If you are really good, then you can try one of these. I used one years ago and i had success. Did two of them.
I have one of those that I never used and haven't seen in years. I loaned it to a friend who used it on a 47 Cadillac and it worked good for him. He was a very accomplished mechanic.
I have one of those that I never used and haven't seen in years. I loaned it to a friend who used it on a 47 Cadillac and it worked good for him. He was a very accomplished mechanic.
I believe if I had one of those I'd still have my original knuckles.
The link I provided in Post 221 specifically states service manual page numbers.
oh that’s very cool! So there is hope! Haha. Yeah I’ll see if I can find one of those. For now I’ll leave it alone cuz I just put on a brand new oil pan gasket and I don’t want to buy another one lol let alone another oil change as well
oh that’s very cool! So there is hope! Haha. Yeah I’ll see if I can find one of those. For now I’ll leave it alone cuz I just put on a brand new oil pan gasket and I don’t want to buy another one lol let alone another oil change as well
Don't get discouraged. Take your time. At this point the car isn't going anywhere. You've done a lot of work and tackled a bunch of issues that are fairly daunting. As you know, steep learning curve. Doing all this on your own is fantastic. This is how cars are saved. People who care about them. BTW, the knowledge you are learning now will serve you a lifetime.
It's been said many times before, I'll say it again; we are only caretakers of the cars. With some luck, they will outlast us, and be passed on to the next generation. Without your efforts, that doesn't happen.
Great job, keep going. I've spent a lot of time under mine. It's to the point I can just get in and drive somewhere. Just like a normal car!! You'll get there.
Don't get discouraged. Take your time. At this point the car isn't going anywhere. You've done a lot of work and tackled a bunch of issues that are fairly daunting. As you know, steep learning curve. Doing all this on your own is fantastic. This is how cars are saved. People who care about them. BTW, the knowledge you are learning now will serve you a lifetime.
It's been said many times before, I'll say it again; we are only caretakers of the cars. With some luck, they will outlast us, and be passed on to the next generation. Without your efforts, that doesn't happen.
Great job, keep going. I've spent a lot of time under mine. It's to the point I can just get in and drive somewhere. Just like a normal car!! You'll get there.
Dave
thank you for the encouragement and I agree with all that! I love these old cars and I’ve done a lot with in the beginning knowing nothing and I’ve learned things the hard way. I can get in mine and go now too actually I just don’t have a license plate on it. Can I see pictures of your guys cars?
There is a neoprene seal made by, I think Mr. gasket, if you don't want to go with the rope style and the crank problem can be over come by loosen the main bolts without dropping the crank completely (just enough to slide the new seal in) not a pleasant job, but doable.... Tedd
There is a neoprene seal made by, I think Mr. gasket, if you don't want to go with the rope style and the crank problem can be over come by loosen the main bolts without dropping the crank completely (just enough to slide the new seal in) not a pleasant job, but doable.... Tedd
ok I’ll keep that in mind. I think I’ll try that sneaky Pete tool because I’d rather not mess with the crank at all. I still need to see what my shop book says. I already have the rope seals and cork squares that go in but I will most likely wait til my next oil change to do the rear main
Just my opinion, but I think you'll find a neoprene seal to be FAR easier to maneuver into place than the rope seal. If you're so inclined, Bar's Leaks is specifically formulated to address rear main seal leaks. Of course, like anything, it's highly dependent on size of leak & location of leak but it's something to consider during the interim until you get around to R&R. It's a polymer which builds a polymeric film around & into the rear main seal. No guarantees, it could very well work well for you.
Cool I’ll look up that seal. So this bars stuff won’t leave a bunch of crud in my engine and ruin anything? This is something different but I used that stop leak **** in my old original radiator and it made matter even worse that I’m still seeing it come into my radiator. And that was last summer. I just never wanna deal with that again. But yeah that stuff would only be temporary
Cool I’ll look up that seal. So this bars stuff won’t leave a bunch of crud in my engine and ruin anything? This is something different but I used that stop leak **** in my old original radiator and it made matter even worse that I’m still seeing it come into my radiator. And that was last summer. I just never wanna deal with that again. But yeah that stuff would only be temporary
The product you used (which you did not state) was supposedly formulated as a radiator sealant. Radiator fluid is primarily water based and any radiator seal product must be miscible in water. It's comparing apples to oranges since radiator leak is added to water - not to oil. Bar's Leaks is formulated to be miscible in oil (petroleum), not water. Two completely different formulations for two completely different applications.
The product you used (which you did not state) was supposedly formulated as a radiator sealant. Radiator fluid is primarily water based and any radiator seal product must be miscible in water. It's comparing apples to oranges since radiator leak is added to water - not to oil. Bar's Leaks is formulated to be miscible in oil (petroleum), not water. Two completely different formulations for two completely different applications.
will having the idle set too high affect the Air Fuel mixture while trying to adjust the screws with a vacuum gauge hooked up? I took a can of brake clean and sprayed all around the carb and intake and did not hear the idle raise or move at all so it’s sounding like those missing bolts on the exhaust manifolds are the issue. Still haven’t gotten them out because I don’t have the proper drill.
will having the idle set too high affect the Air Fuel mixture while trying to adjust the screws with a vacuum gauge hooked up? I took a can of brake clean and sprayed all around the carb and intake and did not hear the idle raise or move at all so it’s sounding like those missing bolts on the exhaust manifolds are the issue. Still haven’t gotten them out because I don’t have the proper drill.
I have noticed the left side AF screw does not seem to affect the adjustment as much as the right side screw. I mean if you screw it in enough yes it will lower the rpm. But I’m wondering if that is telling me something about a valve on that side of the engine not working right?
A/F mixture screws adjust the ratio of air:fuel mixture delivered into the intake manifold & ultimately into each cylinder. The A/F mixture ratio is adjusted w/ the engine at normal operating temperature with the idle set to the specific setting as outlined in the service manual.
January 27th, 2024, 12:33 PM
