Cesar Malta

Hello ! Very nice Forum! I own an Oldsmolibe 98 2dr date of 1959. I live in Brazil. This car is almost over 20 years without maintenance, no engine nor transmission running during this time . Every time is possible I try to revise some engine parts as the purpose to run this motor again some day in near future. Alternator and Starter are OK. Since the car has been sitting for so long, I would think I would need at least a repair kit for transmission, too. I got a repair kit to the carburator, a Rochester 4GC but need to finish cleaning of carbs parts before. Anything else, I would need to open up the tranmisson and inspect what is going on inside, but I prefer a suggestion before this tentative. If possible, can you please suggest or recommend any procedure regarding how to start the engine and transmission ? What we should observe in reference of transmission before or at the time to run this engine? Oil type? As far as I know this is a hidra-matic Jetaway 315. Thanks, appreciate your help!

Best regards,

Cesar.

Oldsguy

Cesar, welcome to our site. I would recommend that you inspect the fuel tank and flush it if neccessary before starting the engine. 20 years is a long time to just sit. You may need a new fuel pick-up filter (commonly called the sock) inside the tank as well as new flexible hoses from the frame to the engine. Of course a complete tune-up is needed and goes without question. Points, plugs, distributor cap and rotor, coil, plug wires should be replaced. Drain and flush the engine of all old oil and replace it with some 10w40. You are in your winter there correct? If it is cold there be sure to drain and flush the coolant and replace it using some good anti-freeze. Be sure the engine will turn by squirting some light oil or penetrating oil into every cylinder (plugs removed) and let it sit for a few days, then try to turn the engine using a large socket on the end of the crankshaft in the middle of the crank pulley in the front of the engine. This will ensure you don't have any piston rings rusted to the cylinder walls. There are probably some more things that if forgot but I am sure others will help out.

Cesar Malta

Hello, thank you for your reply, I am very happy to be a member of this forum! I understand, in fact I left 6 liters of Kerosene oil into the engine and into every cylinder, almost 1 year ago, this is kind of a very light oil sold on gas stations. I will drain and replace by 10w40 as you recommend. I do not know what to do in reference of transmission. Do you have any recommendation regarding oil type for this transmisssion? I think the Jetaway 315 does not use the actual (red) oil but instead other type of oil for antique hidramatic transmissions, not sure. I could not find a specification for it. After replacing transmission oil, do you think it is OK to left it just on N position to start the engine? I am affraid that something else can be damaged into the transmission if engines runs. Yes, we are in winter and the radiator was removed, I will flush it and reinstall later. Do you think is possible to have any documentation or pictures about points to fix it or how to reinstall the radiator and hoses? Thank you in advance.

Jakespeed63

Welcome from a fellow Olds nut. Would have to agree with most everything Oldsguy mentioned. I would highly recommend removing the starter motor and inspecting it yourself or having it proffessional tested. Make sure all battery cables and connections are good as well. Buy the strongest/best battery you can afford.

Once the engine can be cranked, remove distributor and fab up a tool to spin the oil pump. Buy a cheap oil gauge and screw into sending unit hole. Watch the pressure while turning dummy shaft with strong drill motor. If this works, turn engine over by hand while priming oil system. Don't mean to insult you, but please make sure a new filter is in place.

Oil pressure should be at least 20-25 psi. Use Rotella 15w-40 truck oil!! These engines have problems with soft cams and valve train(rockers, rocker shaft)

Do a compression test after re-installing the distributor at TDC.(mark before removing!) If cylinder pressure is not at least 80-90psi this thing will never fire.
Rings could be stuck, despite soaking in kerosene.

My personal advice on the trans is start with a fluid and filter job. These transmissions are very durable and may be OK. (they came from the factory with whale oil in them!) Make sure you flush the lines and cooler.
If it does not work, look into converting it over to a GM 700R4. Not real cheap, but worth it in the long run. better power and fuel mileage.

Carb isn't too tricky, if you have little or no experience let a pro do it. Or send it to me and I will do it for you cheap$$. Linkage adjustments are critical for choke, secondaries and transmission throttle pressure.

Good luck, gotta fly.
JT
(jaytee43@earthlink.net)

Cesar Malta

Hi JT, thank you very much! Yes, starter and alternator are tested and OK. I will follow all details you mention, great information! In reference of carb, I have a repair kit from Doctor Carburator but the choke is an issue , I had a suggestion to free up the throttle body and choke by cleaning using a rust-remover with phosphoric acid. I will try anyway.

Best regards,
Cesar

PetChemMan

After you change the engine oil and oil filter, you may also be able to build oil pressure in the engine by removing the spark plugs and cranking the engine for 20 to 30 seconds. You should install new spark plugs, or at least clean the old ones, anyway. Definitely file and set the ignition points or replace them and the condenser if you have new ones. Ignition points get dirt and corrosion on them after a time, and don't make good contact. Spray all of the ignition components such as the coil and distributor cap ( inside and outside) with WD-40 or CRC , and use a small brush to clean off the dirt. Put a little grease on the distributor points cam lobe. Ignition wires definitely need replacing. Your hydraulic valve lifters may clack for a time, but will free up with some running. I've used Rislone oil additive to free up stuck, noisy hydraulic lifters. Your transmission will probably be ok, but a filter and fluid change is desirable. If you remove the transmission pan, however, you may need a new pan gasket. Use transmission fluid labeled Dexron. I've also used transmission fluid additives such as Trans-X and others to free up stuck valve bodies. As others have pointed out, the fuel system suffers the most when a car sits for years. I'd remove the gas tank and empty it out completely. Replace any fuel filters, and rubber fuel lines. You can substitute generic "after market" fuel filters for factory types .Your fuel pump may still be good. The carburetor will need rebuilding. You can prime and flush the fuel system before starting the engine using starting fluid ( ether) sprayed into the carburetor. Pump the first pint of gas into a can , and not into the carburetor. Starting fluid is also a good way to diagnose whether you have an ignition problem or a fuel delivery problem. All in all, however, it's amazing how old engines, and transmissions, will come to life after years of sitting if you do a little maintenance first . Some tune up parts may be hard to find or expensive , but often the old parts can be made to work . Good luck , and let us know when the engine runs and the car moves !