455 assembly questions
#1
455 assembly questions
Just checking with experts here as I go - continuing with the embarrassing questions. I am a SBC guy doing my first BBO
Reusing the old roller timing set. Crank sprocket has bevel on 1 side, square cut other side, markings on both sides, unknown brand.
1. Does bevel side go IN?
2. Of the 3 keyway options (square cut, pointed cut, rounded cut) which one is "straight up", no advance or retard?
Reusing good rods with ARP bolts that have already been ran a few thousand miles.
3. No need to torque, retorque, retorque, right?
4. Does it still need the ARP special lube, or red locktite?
5. What ft lbs torque if I dont have stretch gauge?
And oil pump install
6. Bolt on dry right? No gasket or sealer
7. Hex shaft goes in with pump from the bottom, not drop down from the top?
Reusing the old roller timing set. Crank sprocket has bevel on 1 side, square cut other side, markings on both sides, unknown brand.
1. Does bevel side go IN?
2. Of the 3 keyway options (square cut, pointed cut, rounded cut) which one is "straight up", no advance or retard?
Reusing good rods with ARP bolts that have already been ran a few thousand miles.
3. No need to torque, retorque, retorque, right?
4. Does it still need the ARP special lube, or red locktite?
5. What ft lbs torque if I dont have stretch gauge?
And oil pump install
6. Bolt on dry right? No gasket or sealer
7. Hex shaft goes in with pump from the bottom, not drop down from the top?
#2
On one of my cam swaps, I put it in dot-to-dot and the engine had no low end power. Many years later I got a different cam and a degree wheel, checked the old cam before pulling it, and found it was 8 degrees retarded. That convinced me to always degree the cam.
#3
Yes you need the ARP lube. NO LOCTITE !
The correct torque should be on ARP's web site. You have to look up the kit part number first, then the instructions.
Last edited by BillK; April 26th, 2024 at 06:41 PM.
#4
There's supposed to be a small washer/retainer on the oil pump shaft that keeps the shaft from falling out and being pulled from the motor when you remove the distributor. If this retainer is installed then the shaft can't be "dropped in from the top".
#5
That sheet metal retainer is only there to prevent the shaft from falling through to the floor when you install it with the motor upside down on the engine stand and no distributor in place yet. Once the oil pump and distributor are in place, the shaft can't go anywhere. More to the point, when the shaft gets stuck in the distributor drive gear (which is ALWAYS does), all the retainer does is make it more difficult to pull the distributor and shaft out while the retainer gets slid down the shaft and into the oil pan. I would suggest not using it and just drop the shaft in from the top once the oil pump is in place.
#8
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
anthonylenhardt
Cars For Sale
1
March 29th, 2007 07:54 AM