Fresh short block
#1
Fresh short block
WOW I finally got the short block back from the machine shop. It was a little more $ than I expected but I wanted it done right. Ha now I have to save a little bit to have the heads done U guys want to c?????
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anyone need .020 455 rod bearings? after they opened them they told me I needed .030's
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did that with a ck10
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bought these for $50
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dead soldier, 403 the 455 is replacing
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I'll b taking the 3:42 auburn gear posi disc brake rear end out to put a 9" in
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IMG00408.jpg
anyone need .020 455 rod bearings? after they opened them they told me I needed .030's
IMG00409.jpg
IMG00410.jpg
did that with a ck10
IMG00411.jpg
bought these for $50
IMG00298.jpg
dead soldier, 403 the 455 is replacing
IMG00296.jpg
I'll b taking the 3:42 auburn gear posi disc brake rear end out to put a 9" in
Last edited by sethj78; October 9th, 2009 at 07:52 AM.
#5
Ya the fun is about to start! I have a lot of little stuff to do like open the oil drainbacks, tap some treads in the holes where the oil filter adapter is supposed to go(using a remote oil filter to keep it away from the small block headers i modified), make a windage tray/crank scrape and large sump oil pan ect. ect. AND I gotta make those rocker arms work.
The 403 sounds like a piston is hitting the head, maybe I should stick a bore scope in it and look around a bit. I'm not sure what I'm gonna do with it yet, thought about taring it down and if not to messed up, fixing it but I could use the money, I still have to have the heads done on the 455. It was rebuilt 07 or 08, I bought it with the car. It had a 307 crank in it and bearing trouble so I put a true 403 crank and new bearings in it but I think I spun it to fast, I smoked a mustang
The 403 sounds like a piston is hitting the head, maybe I should stick a bore scope in it and look around a bit. I'm not sure what I'm gonna do with it yet, thought about taring it down and if not to messed up, fixing it but I could use the money, I still have to have the heads done on the 455. It was rebuilt 07 or 08, I bought it with the car. It had a 307 crank in it and bearing trouble so I put a true 403 crank and new bearings in it but I think I spun it to fast, I smoked a mustang
Last edited by sethj78; October 10th, 2009 at 11:54 AM.
#6
Ya the fun is about to start! I have a lot of little stuff to do like open the oil drainbacks, tap some treads in the holes where the oil filter adapter is supposed to go(using a remote oil filter to keep it away from the small block headers i modified), make a windage tray/crank scrape and large sump oil pan ect. ect. AND I gotta make those rocker arms work.
The 403 sounds like a piston is hitting the head, maybe I should stick a bore scope in it and look around a bit. I'm not sure what I'm gonna do with it yet, thought about taring it down and if not to messed up, fixing it but I could use the money, I still have to have the heads done on the 455. It was rebuilt 07 or 08, I bought it with the car. It had a 307 crank in it and bearing trouble so I put a true 403 crank and new bearings in it but I think I spun it to fast, I smoked a mustang
The 403 sounds like a piston is hitting the head, maybe I should stick a bore scope in it and look around a bit. I'm not sure what I'm gonna do with it yet, thought about taring it down and if not to messed up, fixing it but I could use the money, I still have to have the heads done on the 455. It was rebuilt 07 or 08, I bought it with the car. It had a 307 crank in it and bearing trouble so I put a true 403 crank and new bearings in it but I think I spun it to fast, I smoked a mustang
A four cylinder 80's model Mustang? :P
#8
#10
You are better off getting the retrofit lifters for the OLDS.
What cam are you going to use with those roller lifters?
I think the chevy rollers oil ring is not in the correct spot. Plus the block does not have enough room to install the keeper bars for the rollers.
Gene
What cam are you going to use with those roller lifters?
I think the chevy rollers oil ring is not in the correct spot. Plus the block does not have enough room to install the keeper bars for the rollers.
Gene
#11
I have the "keeper bar" all ready modified to fit, it is from a chevy as well, yes the lifters oil hole does come out of the bore but I am making bushings that will extend the bore and hold the keeper bar up enough to clear the lift of the cam. I was going to take pics but got really busy. .505 with 1.6:1 rockers...soooo .316 maybe??
The block is fine and the oil ring on the lifter is fine but there is a notch in the lifter that sticks just above the lifter bore, I'm doing this cuz I don't have $400+ for retros-thats crap anyway $400 for lifters?????
The block is fine and the oil ring on the lifter is fine but there is a notch in the lifter that sticks just above the lifter bore, I'm doing this cuz I don't have $400+ for retros-thats crap anyway $400 for lifters?????
#12
I finally took some pics of the retainers. They don't interfere with the block at all.
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Last edited by sethj78; October 26th, 2009 at 08:46 PM.
#14
thats cool, just got mine out of machine shop too, i think im going to put the roller set in my 425 and the machine shop showed me the prices and stuff and that stuff is really expensive, for my 455 it would of been like 500 more dollars, i dont got that much more after spending 3500 to get it going again, and I like to get it in before winter and go crusing at least a few times
#16
well my 425 is not my daily driver so i use it more for going fast and stuff like that. the other problem is oil. oil today i believe just isnt that protective for the old hydraulic cams of the day. for my other car, the 455, i spend 5 bucks a quart for valvoline VR1 oil that has extra ZDDP
#17
well my 425 is not my daily driver so i use it more for going fast and stuff like that. the other problem is oil. oil today i believe just isnt that protective for the old hydraulic cams of the day. for my other car, the 455, i spend 5 bucks a quart for valvoline VR1 oil that has extra ZDDP
I guess you would have to do a cost comparison between the upgrade to the rollers vs. running Rottella or an oil with higher zinc, or a zinc additive. Then you need to figure out how long the cam would last if you ran 'normal' oil vs. how long it would last if you dumped in the stuff with zinc.
How much longer does a roller cam last over a flat?
On the other hand, changing cams can be a fun project for the winter.
#19
Let's say the flat camshaft only lasts 100,000 miles. How long is it going to take to rack up that kind of miles in your non daily driver? In fifteen years of owning my '66 I've put on 6000.
Now that the rebuild is done, I plan on doing more driving with it, but still, how many years would it take to wear out a non roller cam?
Now that the rebuild is done, I plan on doing more driving with it, but still, how many years would it take to wear out a non roller cam?
#20
yeah in that since if its not a daily driver you should just be ok with a flat cam, but for daily driver i say it might be worth it, i did a engine build on a nissan with a roller cam and it had about 300,000 miles on it, and it had some wear at that point, but even as daily driver that had to take awhile to get to as the car is like 17 years old. Actully when i did my rebuild of my 455 it had orginal cam in it, car has orginal 93,500 miles on it, and was showing some wear, but it actually wasnt that bad though. but to answer your question about how long would it take to wear a non roller cam out maybe about 7 years, i guess it all depends on how much you drive
#21
a roller set up has less friction (obviously) and that frees up horse power, though it may b minimal. it is able to open and close the valves much faster. and its cool to say "ya I got a roller set up" :-) My dads 78 cutlass with the 403 roller cam had the most awesome sound!!! my regal 403 flat tappet sounded completely different but of course it had different cam profile. If I'm gonna build a motor I want as much power as I can get, compared with drivability that is. I want it all
#22
#23
I'm a hp junky thats why i went with a full roller setup along with H-beam rods, lighter pistons, more compression, aluminum heads and its just my street car but oh what a street car it is Sometimes you don't need a reason
#25
Switched to an Erson Roller, night and day difference with similar specs from the other 2.
Like Seth says, less friction, you can run virtually any oil you want and you'll get more horsepower. Plus if you want to change cams, you don't have to buy another set of lifters. A win-win in my book.
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