Valve Train Preload!!! HEAD SPINNING!!!

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Old April 22nd, 2010, 08:11 AM
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Valve Train Preload!!! HEAD SPINNING!!!

OK after what feels like days of reading on the subject & reading multiple different opinions on the subject. I am more confused now then when I started.

I will shortly be reinstalling all my valve train components
  • New Stamped Steel OEM Style Rockers with new pedistals & bridges
  • Original Cleaned Pushrods
  • Possible new Lifters (After Inspection)
Much of what I read says Olds valvetrains are tourque to spec and let her fly. While others say its important to set lifter preload. WHICH IS IT???? LOL

Most of the stuff I have read about the different ways of checking lifter preload sounds like a real PITA!!!! I NEED PICTURES I'm not trying to build a racer here I just want to put it back to stock and have it be dependable.
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Old April 22nd, 2010, 08:39 AM
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Any time you add new parts into the mix, you should re-check preload. Your new pedestals may be machined to different tolerances than your old ones.
On a stock application, as long as you have .001" preload you'll probably be fine. I believe stock was .001-.010" Soooo....

If you add an aftermarket head gasket that is .025" thicker than stock, you run into preload problems.

I like to preload mine between .025 -.035" to make things nice and tight.

If your new parts do not allow any preload, you can get longer push rods, or machine the pedestal bases, or mill the heads.
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Old April 22nd, 2010, 08:39 AM
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Lifter preload is determined by the height of the valve stems. If you install new lifters let them soak in oil overnight. Then you can use a screw driver to pump the lifter full of oil. Install the lifters and pushrods, then install the rockers. Torque everything and you should be good to go.
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Old April 22nd, 2010, 08:39 AM
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Simple-NO PIC"S.
Preload is a good thing.
Upon installation, put some feeler gauges between the pedestal, and the head, with the camshaft having NO lift. Tighten the hold down bolts. When the pushrod starts getting tight, THAT is when you want to get the measurement.
If you have more than .065 of feeler guages there, it's gonna miss on that hole bad.
If the pushrod never gets tight, it's gonna make a bunch of racket.
I shoot for around .025 or so.
When you tighten it all down, it will push down on the valve that little bit.
Jim
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Old April 22nd, 2010, 08:45 AM
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Ahhh ok that method sounds fairly simple. I like things that are simple & cheap like me

Originally Posted by Warhead
Simple-NO PIC"S.
Preload is a good thing.
Upon installation, put some feeler gauges between the pedestal, and the head, with the camshaft having NO lift. Tighten the hold down bolts. When the pushrod starts getting tight, THAT is when you want to get the measurement.
If you have more than .065 of feeler guages there, it's gonna miss on that hole bad.
If the pushrod never gets tight, it's gonna make a bunch of racket.
I shoot for around .025 or so.
When you tighten it all down, it will push down on the valve that little bit.
Jim
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Old April 22nd, 2010, 10:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Olds64
Lifter preload is determined by the height of the valve stems. If you install new lifters let them soak in oil overnight. Then you can use a screw driver to pump the lifter full of oil. Install the lifters and pushrods, then install the rockers. Torque everything and you should be good to go.

I dont think the soak the lifters and pump them up is a good idea...I seem to recall that that idea was tossed out a long time ago...just put cam lube on them and install right out of the box...no soaking or pumping
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Old April 22nd, 2010, 11:03 AM
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Yeah I have read that as well. Most come pre-filled now. At most they recommend priming the engine with the pump once installed.
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Old April 22nd, 2010, 01:29 PM
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That is what I've always done. I've never had any problems.
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Old April 22nd, 2010, 01:33 PM
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Sounds like a plan to me.
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Old April 23rd, 2010, 05:48 AM
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Keep us posted.
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