Troys Toy 70

The 442 I just purchased last weekend, had a "freshly" rebuilt 455. According to the seller, the motor has never been fired. He couldn't tell me much about what was done to the motor; other than, it's 30 over, 10 on the rods, 20 on the crank, and aluminum pistons, but did not know the brand. E heads with a basic head job.

Assuming it was put together correctly, I am guessing (totally) that the compression may be between 8.5- 9.0:1 My plan is to exchange the Torker on it with a performer, and do the intial fire up and see what happens. Can anyone give me a guess on what I can expect with this combo? Will vacuum be ok?

If it runs, I will drive it a couple of years.

The cam card the side of the box is slightly different than this listing I found at Summit, within 0.002 difference.

Brand:Melling
Manufacturer's Part Number: CL-MTO-1
Part Type:Camshaft Kits
Product Line:Melling M-Select Torque Cam and Lifter Kits
Summit Racing Part Number:MEL-CL-MTO-1
Cam Style: Hydraulic flat tappet
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift: 204
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift: 214
Duration at 050 inch Lift: 204 int./214 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration: 280
Advertised Exhaust Duration: 290
Advertised Duration: 280 int./290 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.448 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.472 in.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.448 int./0.472 exh.
Lobe Separation (degrees): 107
Computer-Controlled Compatible: No
Lifters Included: Yes
Lifter Style: Hydraulic flat tappet

Fun71

That's a very mild cam (204/214) for even a 350, but it should run OK as long as the compression ratio is what you said. It won't rev very high before running out of power, though.

cutlassefi

Just an fyi all passenger car pistons are made from aluminum, whether it be cast or forged.
And as mentioned that cam is extremely mild, even for a low compression build.

Olds442redberet

It might be a good idea to change the cam at the same time you change out the intake.

And please double check your break in procedures for flat tappet cams. Also check your fluids prior to starting the car. I am sure you know what you're doing but I have seen some experts toast their engines because they didn't use a quality oil that contained a zinc additive during break in.

I like the idea of cutting open the oil filter after breaking in the motor to check for metal.

Good luck and keep us informed. I am planning a 455 build with E heads soon.

Troys Toy 70

The engine is the gamble in this deal. I didn't put a whole lot value on the motor in my purchase price. It is a number matching block. Most of the answers I got were vague on the build. I have some of the paperwork on it but not enough to put the pieces together.

He did finally tell me they were forged and thought they were dished, but no Manufacture or part #. We discussed the compression ratio, but his machine shop said it was built back to factory specs no loss of compression. ;( . A swing and a miss, no block or head milling were performed. Just a basic 30 over rebuild. That's why I was guessing around 8.5 -9.0:1. I am asumming that they are speed pro or sealed power.
I tried to get pics of #1 cylinder, and see if I could get any clues but no luck.

I am debating pulling the heads, now.

wr1970

Gaskets are cheap insurance. Then you could check the whole build to make sure it was done right.

BangScreech4-4-2

If it does in fact retain its factory compression ratio, it could certainly handle some more cam. As mentioned, if you're swapping the intake anyway, why don't you consider something a little hairier, like 220/225 @0.050 with something like 0.460-0.480 lift.


If you do a compression test, the cylinder pressures might offer a clue.

jawsmon

I don't know about Melling but Edelbrock reccomends using a breakin additive GM "EOS" engine oil supplement part #88862586. Since the motor has been rebuilt Prime the oil system. Continue for a couple of mintues after oil pressure is observed.

From Edelbrock...
"During the break-in, do not let the engine idle. Low engine speeds reduce oil pressure which can lead to premature wear and failure of a new flat tappet camshaft. Keep the engine speed above 2000 rpm during the first 30 minutes after startup. Start the engine and bring immeadiately to the break-in rpm. Vary the engine speed between 2000 and 2500 during the entire break-in period."

This takes a little preperation so get your ducks in a row or run the risk of killing the cam right out of the box.