CoryW

Ive got 8 identical bushings and 2 thinner with a more hollowed out sleeve? Where do these go? Also 4 leftover rubber bushings with no sleeves

Eddie Hansen

Hi cory, whose kit did you get? reason I am asking is some kits supply bushings that do not specifically go to your car but another a-body, also what are you working on year make and model?

I have just changed mine on a 69 convertible cutlass, you did not mention the mounts without bolts? these normally sit on top of the rear wheel arch on the frame, then there are two of the same on each side behind the wheel arch, two in the front ( these require different bolts usually) and two in the middle of the door ( on the frame ) if you look at my build thread I have showed where I installed them, my kit also came with extra bushings but this would be for either a pontiac or a buick, and I believe 70 and up? I believe the bushings with the wider holes are suppose to be used in the center by the middle of the door to facilitate alignment these would be the first bolts to go in, if you look at the frame in the front there is a small 1/2 hole in the chasis and also corresponding in the body, some folks use a threaded rod to help with alignment and also there is one space on the rear most crossmember, I have seen the rod being used in a factory 66-67 gto assembly line. the front core support takes two completely different mounts BTW. hope this helps.

Eddie Hansen

I borrowed this pic from Stan K

it shows the alignment rod, my 69 has the same 1/2 hole in the same location ?

ent72olds

Now that's an awesome pic! I wondered how the were able to align quickly enough on an assy line! Guess I will use the same method, thanks Eddie!

kitfoxdave

I just did my 72 cutlass convertible. Allen R had posted a copy of the body mount diagram in one of the forums. I shamelessly printed it out and used it for reference!

on the 72, the 4 non threaded ones are used just forward of the rear axle. 2 on the crossmember one on each side near the fwd lower control arm attachment. The 2 smaller threaded ones are for the back corners under the trunk.

CoryW

My car is a 1970 coupe 442. Ill show a pic of what I am talking about eddie

CoryW

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CoryW

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CoryW

this body mount kit was from Year one

CoryW

I scowered your profile eddie and could not find the picture you referred to? did you use POR paint on the underside of your body? thats what i did too it looks good.

Eddie Hansen

Cory yes I had bought the year one kit first and I had the same questions, I still believe the bigger holes go perhaps in the mounts by the door area to aid in alignment? I will find the pics and post them it is hard to do from my Xoom . I ended up buying a second set from in-line tube however that came with a veritable smorgsborg of mounts lol. Are there no solid mounts over the rear cross member on a 70 coup, do you also have an assembly or chasis manual? If not you can look print free at wild about cars great website for manuals reference etc


Erik if you look closely you can see another worker in the front presumably with another rod set up, you can see the 1/2 rod hole clearly in Cory's pic.

Btw Cory at. The end of the day those holes will not make a difference the year one kit has solid donuts that go on the underside the body will not shift with the other 8 mounts , I think all the body mount kits should come with some kind of instructions.

Regarding my underside , first I stripped to bare metal, then used por 15, then scuffed then I used poor 15 tie coat primer, then sanded that that used poor 15 chasis coat I have ocd I inherited it from Brian and Allen lol .... thanks for the kudos are you doing your chasis as well? I found using por 15, then spraying the chasis while it is still a little tacky worked great.

CoryW

Its just dusty inbyhe pic but i actually sandblasted the frame and primered and painted with regilar rustoleum about a year ago...and as soon as I got done I learned about POR. So I decided screw it I'm leaving iit haha. There are solid pucks above the rear end on that crossmember too. I guess my question was just where the odd thinner one goes. I'm gettong a lot of people telling me the mount mid doorframe gets a solid puck with no bolt. Come to think of it I do remember it being thst way when I pulled the body. But its also 42 years old and was restored once before...

Eddie Hansen

Cory go to page 9 of my thread in major builds forum

CoryW

Thanks but I think we are still on different pages. Look at the picbi posted of the bushings. They are the same diameter. The one on the left is thicker however heightwise. I have 8 of the ones on the left. 2 of the right and 6 pucks. I do have a service manual. Unfortunately it refers to them as "green" or "green with stripe" as you can tell these are all black. The manual showed no sgnificant differences in appearance or measurements. I put the thinner one under the door and set my body on about an hour ago. Year one couldnt tell me neither could my manual lol.

Eddie Hansen

Duhhhhhhhhh. Sorry Cory missed your point completely, now I get it, , now I do have another thought, when I put mine in the ones that are the farthest back at the rear when I went to put the bolts in they were a few threads short to catch the captured nut? Now if I had used slightly thinner mounts it would have been fine, I thought that the bolts should have been longer, but they were all the same length as opposed to the year one bolts which had a couple that were longer,.

I think I would prefer the thinner ones on either end instead of the middle ?

Again sorry for the confusion

CoryW

Well according to the experts that inline tube referred me to, a plain puck goes in the middle of the door area. And the thinner full diameter sleeved puck goes in the front position. According to an actual picture of a 72 frame on Inline tube's website with the body mounts in place it says that the thin one goes in the middle postion and a regular one goes up front. I am like so astonished at how nobody knows this? How is this not just something that cutlass guys know? haha. I mean this is my first one. There is about .120 of an inch difference in thickness with these bushings so im sure it is not a big deal but i just wanted to do it the right way.
For now i have them where i have them and unless i can get a difinitive answer or i am having flexes in the body when i finally get it on the road, that is where they are staying.

Funny you should mention the rear corners because you are the first person to suggest that. The guy from year one seemed to think that they belonged in the very front. Did your kit have different ones? Or were they all the same....

Eddie Hansen

Cory to be honest I didn't even notice the difference in thickness on the year one mounts? just the hole diameters, and the inline tube were all the same , except as I noted. I looked far and wide myself for info and found as you did it was lacking, and it isn't cutlass guys, I looked at buick, poncho and even the vaunted chevy dudes websites nada... a-body is an a-body, one thought I had was to get the part number and then look up in a GM parts catalogue if there was more info?

CoryW

well i measured them and as you can see one is .960 thick and the other is 1.080 haha, oh well i decided to just roll with it.

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seeeee? ahha

TripDeuces

Isn't the fuel pump upside down?

CoryW

why yes TripDeuces. yes it is. How stupid of me hahaha im going out to fix it right now. First build here! Thus the questions! its not even bolted on tight its just setting on the post because I ran my new inline tube fuel lines and wanted to see how much braided line i needed :P