Wheel bearing squeak?
#1
Wheel bearing squeak?
So with my new disc brakes the wheel bearing on the passenger side seems to be squeaking I think. I pulled the rotor removed the inner seal and found some browning on bearing where it sits on the spindle but no blue discoloration on the rollers or anywhere and also there was some browning on the spindle where the inner bearing would sit. I replaced the inner bearing with a timken bearing and seal but for some reason its still squeaking and im not sure why. Ive attached a video so you can hear it for yourself. Note the outer bearing was fine and i saw no discoloration on that one. Any input would be helpful thanks!
Last edited by mitchy; October 4th, 2018 at 11:35 AM.
#5
Can'y hear a noise through my laptop. First the grease gets packed only in the bearing, not inside the housing. You just put a light coating on the spindle. Did you also replace the race? Did you set your preload correctly?
#8
Common practice to change the race and the bearing. The old race will be matched to the wear on the old bearing. Are you sure its a wheel bearing and not brakes.
#9
Im not sure if its the bearing or the pads or maybe the caliper is sticking but these rotors calipers and pads
havent even seen 500 miles yet which is why the i wouldnt suspect the race the race is very clean and new and their already squeaking ive been told the metallic in the pads can contribute to this noise but the signs of excessive heat on the spindle lead me to believe otherwise. Could it possibly be a bad caliper that isnt opening up as far as it should when i let off the brake leading to over heating issues?
havent even seen 500 miles yet which is why the i wouldnt suspect the race the race is very clean and new and their already squeaking ive been told the metallic in the pads can contribute to this noise but the signs of excessive heat on the spindle lead me to believe otherwise. Could it possibly be a bad caliper that isnt opening up as far as it should when i let off the brake leading to over heating issues?
#11
No i don't notice a pulling and the squeak only happens when the brakes are lightly applied then stops when the pedal is pushed foward more. But it occasionally happens when im cornering and all the weight is on the passenger side but thats only happend a couple times. Also it usually only squeaks when im going 30 or under
Last edited by mitchy; October 4th, 2018 at 03:55 PM.
#12
That's brake pad noise and is probably going to happen until the pads wear a bit. If its happening while turning it means your wheel bearings are not adjusted right allowing play and the rotor to tilt. How are you adjusting the wheel bearings?
#13
Like mentioned previously, you have to replace the race with bearing, that is why they come together as a matched set. I would get another bearing, drive old race out with a punch and install new race with a brass drift or a race installer if you have one.
#15
When is the last time the caliper soft brake line was replaced? They should be replaced every so often as they break down internally and can act as a one way valve not allowing fluid to back-flow when releasing the brake pedal. Replace all 3 if you have never done them.
Another thing to try is to knock off the sharp edges of the brake pads. I use a die grinder with a sanding disc but any method will work. Take about a sixteenth to an eighth inch off at a 45* angle. By easing the sharp edge on the pad it eliminates the pad chatter as you hear as squeal.
Why did you need a bearing puller? You shouldn't. Are you installing the race properly with a race/seal tool? The race will go in a lot easier if you stick the race in the freezer and apply a little heat to the hub, 150*F max so sparingly.... Snap a picture of the spindle.
I always put a scoop of grease between the seal and the inner and in the center of the hub along with hand packing the bearing. Too much grease will wick out. Its just a hub with 2 bearings why not apply extra grease. Been doing it for 45 years on countless vehicles without any adverse effects.
Yes always replace bearing and races as sets. You should do the outer as well. Do both axles.You are in there why not do it right....with USA made bearings seals and grease!
Source everything through BDI Inc. They will ship USA made parts to your door. ASK FOR USA MADE cuz they will quote the chineasium junk first. Less than 15 dollar difference between the two, (for both axles seals and all).
Another thing to try is to knock off the sharp edges of the brake pads. I use a die grinder with a sanding disc but any method will work. Take about a sixteenth to an eighth inch off at a 45* angle. By easing the sharp edge on the pad it eliminates the pad chatter as you hear as squeal.
Why did you need a bearing puller? You shouldn't. Are you installing the race properly with a race/seal tool? The race will go in a lot easier if you stick the race in the freezer and apply a little heat to the hub, 150*F max so sparingly.... Snap a picture of the spindle.
I always put a scoop of grease between the seal and the inner and in the center of the hub along with hand packing the bearing. Too much grease will wick out. Its just a hub with 2 bearings why not apply extra grease. Been doing it for 45 years on countless vehicles without any adverse effects.
Yes always replace bearing and races as sets. You should do the outer as well. Do both axles.You are in there why not do it right....with USA made bearings seals and grease!
Source everything through BDI Inc. They will ship USA made parts to your door. ASK FOR USA MADE cuz they will quote the chineasium junk first. Less than 15 dollar difference between the two, (for both axles seals and all).
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