Ball joint woes
April 10th, 2012, 04:28 PM
#1
Shaking out the cobwebs..
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Marysville, Michigan
Posts: 234
Ball joint woes
I want to throw a warning out to anyone who might be replacing ball joints, so they don't make the same mistake I did.
I have access to a small press (Harbor Freight) and used it to remove the old ball joints and bushings. No problems, really easy.
When I was using the AutoZone ball joint tool to install the ball joints, it wasn't in the best of shape, so it was starting the ball joints crooked. My father and I tried numerous times and still had no luck.
So I removed the ball joint and used the press, very slow and gentle.......
I cracked the 'lip' in the a-arm where the ball joint installs.
I don't have pics, but I'll get some.
Luckily I had another a-arm so it wasn't as bad of a day as it could have been.
I have no idea why it cracked. It was slightly cocked in the seat, (similar to the way Robs was in his front end thread) but not as bad as the AutoZone tool was making it. I used a micrometer and measured both the new ones and old ones, they were all within .003 of each other.
2 hours of trying to be gentle with it and the new a-arm, in the both the press and tool, we were getting nowhere.
The only way I could get it in was to slightly file the angled leading edge of the ball joint in order for it to start straight.
Then I had to use a BFH and pound them in. Once I was satisfied they were straight enough, I then hit them harder with the BFH and finished the last 1/4 inch with the press.
We spent 2 hours messing around with the first one, after I figured out that filing was the trick, the second one went in on the first try. Granted, the bottom of the ball joints are banged up, but I didn't know what else to try. I was afraid if I took them to a shop and if they just threw them in a press, they might have cracked my other a-arms, then I'd be screwed.
I have access to a small press (Harbor Freight) and used it to remove the old ball joints and bushings. No problems, really easy.
When I was using the AutoZone ball joint tool to install the ball joints, it wasn't in the best of shape, so it was starting the ball joints crooked. My father and I tried numerous times and still had no luck.
So I removed the ball joint and used the press, very slow and gentle.......
I cracked the 'lip' in the a-arm where the ball joint installs.
I don't have pics, but I'll get some.
Luckily I had another a-arm so it wasn't as bad of a day as it could have been.
I have no idea why it cracked. It was slightly cocked in the seat, (similar to the way Robs was in his front end thread) but not as bad as the AutoZone tool was making it. I used a micrometer and measured both the new ones and old ones, they were all within .003 of each other.
2 hours of trying to be gentle with it and the new a-arm, in the both the press and tool, we were getting nowhere.
The only way I could get it in was to slightly file the angled leading edge of the ball joint in order for it to start straight.
Then I had to use a BFH and pound them in. Once I was satisfied they were straight enough, I then hit them harder with the BFH and finished the last 1/4 inch with the press.
We spent 2 hours messing around with the first one, after I figured out that filing was the trick, the second one went in on the first try. Granted, the bottom of the ball joints are banged up, but I didn't know what else to try. I was afraid if I took them to a shop and if they just threw them in a press, they might have cracked my other a-arms, then I'd be screwed.
April 10th, 2012, 04:58 PM
#2
Once Olds Always Olds
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: New Matamoras, Ohio
Posts: 1,202
Well, you did have a replacement. So, you are only half as frustrated as you thought you were 
Thanks for the heads-up, I missed that on Robs post. What kind of ball joints did you buy?
If I remember right, you said the one side was an inch back from the other. I came across frame measurements in chapter 2 of the CSM, to make sure it is true.
Thanks for the heads-up, I missed that on Robs post. What kind of ball joints did you buy?If I remember right, you said the one side was an inch back from the other. I came across frame measurements in chapter 2 of the CSM, to make sure it is true.
April 10th, 2012, 07:03 PM
#3
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Wow! That's an awesome story. Sorry to hear about the problems. When I pressed my lowers in? (They were NAPA parts) No issues. Less than 30 seconds and they were seated in straight on both sides, on the first time. I noticed that Robs ball joints have what looks like splining aroud the edge. Maybe that's what causes the problem with line up? Mine (old and new) didn't have that and were a breeze to play with. What I didn't like was doing the bushings.
That LCA must have had metal fatigue or something. I can't believe it would crack like that.
That LCA must have had metal fatigue or something. I can't believe it would crack like that.
April 10th, 2012, 07:33 PM
#4
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Plano, TX
Posts: 11,798
You missed the drama - it all starts here, in all its glory...
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...tml#post295288
If the metal in the arm split, either you had them really cocked or the metal was fatigued and needed replacing anyway.
I would have exchanged that damaged press for a good one. I am sure that was one of the main problems....
Of course mine looked ok and the dang things still went in crooked. However, forcing them with the press worked in my case. I would not pound new joints with a BFH...
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...tml#post295288
If the metal in the arm split, either you had them really cocked or the metal was fatigued and needed replacing anyway.
I would have exchanged that damaged press for a good one. I am sure that was one of the main problems....
Of course mine looked ok and the dang things still went in crooked. However, forcing them with the press worked in my case. I would not pound new joints with a BFH...
April 10th, 2012, 08:06 PM
#7
Once Olds Always Olds
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: New Matamoras, Ohio
Posts: 1,202
You missed the drama - it all starts here, in all its glory...
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...tml#post295288
If the metal in the arm split, either you had them really cocked or the metal was fatigued and needed replacing anyway.
I would have exchanged that damaged press for a good one. I am sure that was one of the main problems....
Of course mine looked ok and the dang things still went in crooked. However, forcing them with the press worked in my case. I would not pound new joints with a BFH...
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...tml#post295288
If the metal in the arm split, either you had them really cocked or the metal was fatigued and needed replacing anyway.
I would have exchanged that damaged press for a good one. I am sure that was one of the main problems....
Of course mine looked ok and the dang things still went in crooked. However, forcing them with the press worked in my case. I would not pound new joints with a BFH...
April 10th, 2012, 08:58 PM
#8
Shaking out the cobwebs..
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Marysville, Michigan
Posts: 234
I would not pound new joints with a BFH...
They were from NAPA. Don't know if using Moog's would have made a difference.
Here is a pic:
Crackarm.jpg
April 11th, 2012, 05:11 AM
#9
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Plano, TX
Posts: 11,798
The Moogs have the serrated edges - that might be why they were so tough for me to to get them in.
That arm pictured might have already had a small fracture and you just opened it up..
It needed replacing anyway.
That arm pictured might have already had a small fracture and you just opened it up..
It needed replacing anyway.
April 11th, 2012, 06:45 AM
#10
Shaking out the cobwebs..
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Marysville, Michigan
Posts: 234
If I remember right, you said the one side was an inch back from the other. I came across frame measurements in chapter 2 of the CSM, to make sure it is true.
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