Chrome removal tool
Chrome removal tool
August 26th, 2008, 07:08 PM
#2
Registered User
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Austin, Texas
Posts: 3,155
If it's narrow trim around the base of the vinyl top (rear window and on the QPs) then first look for any studs with speed nuts on them from underneath in the trunk...these would typically hold down any DIE CAST POT METAL CHROME PIECES.
As far as the stainless:
1)Front and rear window glass...there is a specific tool...see this link:
http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/KD-2038.html
That tool is ONLY FOR the approx 3/4-1" wide stainless around the wshield and backglass....nothing else.
2)Any narrower stainless trim...typically held on by pushing the trim down over small nylon/plastic "Blocks". These "blocks" slip onto studs that are spot welded to the body.
As such, you need a STIFF scraper (approx 1" or so wide--get them at Lowes, etc). Slip in under one end of the trim and carefully pry upwards...the trim should pop loose from the first clip. Work your way down the piece. AGAIN---first check for any studs/speed nuts from inside the trunk.
Put some tape, etc on top of the paint and UNDER the scraper each time you use it....or...try to go at the trim from the VINYL TOP SIDE so the scraper is on top of the vinyl instead of the paint.
Pics of your trim would really help.
As far as the stainless:
1)Front and rear window glass...there is a specific tool...see this link:
http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/KD-2038.html
That tool is ONLY FOR the approx 3/4-1" wide stainless around the wshield and backglass....nothing else.
2)Any narrower stainless trim...typically held on by pushing the trim down over small nylon/plastic "Blocks". These "blocks" slip onto studs that are spot welded to the body.
As such, you need a STIFF scraper (approx 1" or so wide--get them at Lowes, etc). Slip in under one end of the trim and carefully pry upwards...the trim should pop loose from the first clip. Work your way down the piece. AGAIN---first check for any studs/speed nuts from inside the trunk.
Put some tape, etc on top of the paint and UNDER the scraper each time you use it....or...try to go at the trim from the VINYL TOP SIDE so the scraper is on top of the vinyl instead of the paint.
Pics of your trim would really help.
August 26th, 2008, 08:09 PM
#3
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 511
Another thing you can do is use an old fashioned bottle opener ( the kind you use to pop the caps off.) I tried this for practice in for future removal. It works pretty well, just go slowly and don't rush it. The harder part is putting the trim back on, especially the curved trim over the quarter windows. I think you can by the little plastic "blocks" when you put the trim back on.
Chumley
Chumley
August 26th, 2008, 08:18 PM
#4
car guy
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Dallas TX
Posts: 5,660
Another thing you can do is use an old fashioned bottle opener ( the kind you use to pop the caps off.) I tried this for practice in for future removal. It works pretty well, just go slowly and don't rush it. The harder part is putting the trim back on, especially the curved trim over the quarter windows. I think you can by the little plastic "blocks" when you put the trim back on.
Chumley
Chumley
August 27th, 2008, 06:10 AM
#5
Registered
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Northeast Ohio
Posts: 4,430
70Post has good techniques and advice. 
There is that point at which you start bending and denting you have to have a feel for. I sometimes use the trim tool and pry the clips open to put the trim back on without a lot of beating, door-ease on the clips can help too.
It helps to have strong fingers and hands, I work them out twisting beer bottle caps off one-handed and then consuming the hard earned fruits of my labor, repetition is best. The "church key" is for trim removal I guess.
Allan
There is that point at which you start bending and denting you have to have a feel for. I sometimes use the trim tool and pry the clips open to put the trim back on without a lot of beating, door-ease on the clips can help too. It helps to have strong fingers and hands, I work them out twisting beer bottle caps off one-handed and then consuming the hard earned fruits of my labor, repetition is best.
The "church key" is for trim removal I guess. Allan
August 27th, 2008, 06:49 AM
#7
Moderator
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Atlanta, Georgia
Posts: 17,641
The paintt stir sticks also work good for removal of the chrome at the rear of the hood. Jes lay it flat againist the edge of the chrome and start at one end s-l-o-w-ly tapping with a small mallet
August 27th, 2008, 07:32 PM
#8
Registered User
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Austin, Texas
Posts: 3,155
Another thing you can do is use an old fashioned bottle opener ( the kind you use to pop the caps off.) I tried this for practice in for future removal. It works pretty well, just go slowly and don't rush it. The harder part is putting the trim back on, especially the curved trim over the quarter windows. I think you can by the little plastic "blocks" when you put the trim back on.
Chumley
Chumley
Just want to clarify each application and tool.
Don't get aggressive with the bottle opener on the drip rails. In fact, it helps to use TWO of them...a few inches apart so you aren't putting on the force on the drip rail moulding with JUST ONE. Even then, you need to put some tape over the bottle opener. With all that prep work IT IS STILL VERY EASY to put miniscule dings in the drip rail stainless wherever you pry with a bottle opener. You may not see them at first but if you look at them in the right conditions they will be there.
August 27th, 2008, 07:37 PM
#9
Registered User
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Austin, Texas
Posts: 3,155
Another thing you can do is use an old fashioned bottle opener ( the kind you use to pop the caps off.) I tried this for practice in for future removal. It works pretty well, just go slowly and don't rush it. The harder part is putting the trim back on, especially the curved trim over the quarter windows. I think you can by the little plastic "blocks" when you put the trim back on.
Chumley
Chumley
Just want to clarify each application and tool.
Don't get aggressive with the bottle opener on the drip rails. In fact, it helps to use TWO of them...a few inches apart so you aren't putting all the force on the drip rail moulding with JUST ONE BOTTLE OPENER . Even then, you need to put some tape over the bottle opener. With all that prep work IT IS STILL VERY EASY to put miniscule dings in the drip rail stainless wherever you pry with a bottle opener. You may not see them at first but if you look at them in the right conditions they will be there.
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