When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Anyone who uses this oil better get to the parts stores before it’s gone.
A few days ago I was in Autozone buying some wiper blades. I noticed they had the Valvoline VR1 racing oil on the clearance rack. Apparently, they are not going to stock it anymore. I stopped at Orielly and advance auto, same thing. WTF??
I have since wiped out all the auto parts stores of their VR1 20W50 inventory. I have enough for my fleer of vehicles for this summer and part of next summer, after that I guess it’s mail order.
On the plus side, I got the oil for 28 bucks per 5 quart jug. The other stores price matched. I see it’s still available on Amazon at 108 bucks for 15 quarts.
Interesting, I haven't noticed that but I don't use VR1. Surprisingly, $28 for 5 quarts is about what I pay for Rotella T4. I thought the Valvoline oil was more expensive.
Interesting, I haven't noticed that but I don't use VR1. Surprisingly, $28 for 5 quarts is about what I pay for Rotella T4. I thought the Valvoline oil was more expensive.
Jesse - I migrated from T4>T6 ~3 yrs. ago in my 2003 F250 diesel tractor. Absolutely love T6. Hard to find, but as luck would have it my local TSC carries the 2.5 gal. jugs @ $69.00/ea. ($6.90/qt) but what an oil...I use 15 qt/oil change.
I usually buy at this site during the sales they offer throughout the year. I've found the sales here to be even cheaper than at Amazon many times. Despite what I said, always check multiple sources before hitting the buy button.
[QUOTE=matt69olds;1553656]Anyone who uses this oil better get to the parts stores before it’s gone.
A few days ago I was in Autozone buying some wiper blades. I noticed they had the Valvoline VR1 racing oil on the clearance rack. Apparently, they are not going to stock it anymore. I stopped at Orielly and advance auto, same thing. WTF??
[QUOTE]
Matt - If it really does disappear, a great alternative is Mobil 1 full synthetic 15w50 Racing Oil, 1300ppm Zinc and 1200ppm Phosphorus. Available at Walmart for $27.97 for 5qt jug. My car loves the stuff. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Mobil-1-A...Quart/20713647
[QUOTE=Dream67Olds442;1553741][QUOTE=matt69olds;1553656]Anyone who uses this oil better get to the parts stores before it’s gone.
A few days ago I was in Autozone buying some wiper blades. I noticed they had the Valvoline VR1 racing oil on the clearance rack. Apparently, they are not going to stock it anymore. I stopped at Orielly and advance auto, same thing. WTF??
Matt - If it really does disappear, a great alternative is Mobil 1 full synthetic 15w50 Racing Oil, 1300ppm Zinc and 1200ppm Phosphorus. Available at Walmart for $27.97 for 5qt jug. My car loves the stuff. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Mobil-1-A...Quart/20713647
My wife kinda bitched about the substantial oil purchases. Her thinking: why did you buy more than you need? My reply; I don’t need all of it NOW, but I will in the future. And it’s on sale. My counter arguments, why do you have so many shoes???
The engine in my car is a roller cam, so it’s not picky on oil. However, the other cars on the hot rod fleets are are school flat tappet cams. I guess if the racing oil becomes hard to find, the only solution is to upgrade the other engines to roller cams!!
Next time I’m at Walmart I’ll have to check out the mobile stuff.
In addition to the added Zinc and Phosphorus, the Mobil 1 Spec Sheet (attached see p.3 bottom of page) says it is specifically designed for High Temp/High Stress, Racing, and Flat Tappet applications.
In addition to the added Zinc and Phosphorus, the Mobil 1 Spec Sheet (attached see p.3 bottom of page) says it is specifically designed for High Temp/High Stress, Racing, and Flat Tappet applications.
I have used Mobil 1 for over 40 years.
I change it every 10,000 miles only because I feel guilty.
My engines usually outlast the rest of the car.
I switched some years ago from Valvoline to Lucas racing oil in the race car and race bike. I use Lucas Hot Rod oil in my '67 now that it's back on the street.
I have used Mobil 1 for over 40 years.
I change it every 10,000 miles only because I feel guilty.
My engines usually outlast the rest of the car.
I switched to Mobil 1 around 2000 in most of my cars and go between 6000 and 8000 miles with zero issues. Now days, I just do it when the car light come on to change it. That is typically around 6000 plus. My old cars I have been running Brad Penn but likely to switch to Mobil 1 when I run out of my Brad Penn stash.
I used the small bottle of REV X ~5 years ago when I changed the intake manifold gasket & oil pump on my newly purchased 1971 350 CS convertible. The valley & turkey tray had lots of caked carbon & sludge. Having no direct knowledge of the history of the engine at that time, I read up on several additives & REV X was what I was looking for. After cleaning the valley, rocker assemblies, etc. I ran 2-3 gallons of diesel fuel through the stationary engine several times over several days. I filled engine w/ oil + filter, ran it 50 miles, then changed oil + filter adding the REV X driving the vehicle an additional 300 miles before a final oil change at which time I didn't add any additional REV X.
I have used the ZR1, but recently changed to the Lucas hot rod oil for our Studebaker. It has its original 259 with non hardened valve seats or anything. We still run the road tube on it even.
But this discussion got me thinking about changing the oil in it for the summer. What are your guys thoughts about oil change time interval when you don't even put 1000 miles a year on something?
I guess I mean, is there a need to change the oil just due to age? I have been doing it every spring but with minimum miles is it truly necessary? I probably will anyway, but was just curious...
I have used the ZR1, but recently changed to the Lucas hot rod oil for our Studebaker. It has its original 259 with non hardened valve seats or anything. We still run the road tube on it even.
But this discussion got me thinking about changing the oil in it for the summer. What are your guys thoughts about oil change time interval when you don't even put 1000 miles a year on something?
I guess I mean, is there a need to change the oil just due to age? I have been doing it every spring but with minimum miles is it truly necessary? I probably will anyway, but was just curious...
I have used the ZR1, but recently changed to the Lucas hot rod oil for our Studebaker. It has its original 259 with non hardened valve seats or anything. We still run the road tube on it even.
But this discussion got me thinking about changing the oil in it for the summer. What are your guys thoughts about oil change time interval when you don't even put 1000 miles a year on something?
I guess I mean, is there a need to change the oil just due to age? I have been doing it every spring but with minimum miles is it truly necessary? I probably will anyway, but was just curious...
As long as the oil gets to full temp each time it is ran I would not be to worried about time. I have went 4 to 6 years on an oil change and never hurt a thing. Still changed it in less than 3000 miles. Oil don't go bad from sitting. I supposes some of the additives could separate maybe? Even if it did it would mix up again when ran. Now, if you like to start the car up and not run it long enough to get the oil hot, you may want to get it changed more often. I see people start there cars in the winter and let them run at idle for 5 to 10 minutes in the winter thinking they are doing good but that is the worst thing you could do.
As long as the oil gets to full temp each time it is ran I would not be to worried about time. I have went 4 to 6 years on an oil change and never hurt a thing. Still changed it in less than 3000 miles. Oil don't go bad from sitting. I supposes some of the additives could separate maybe? Even if it did it would mix up again when ran. Now, if you like to start the car up and not run it long enough to get the oil hot, you may want to get it changed more often. I see people start there cars in the winter and let them run at idle for 5 to 10 minutes in the winter thinking they are doing good but that is the worst thing you could do.
Does the oil get water condensation in it if it doesn't warm up?
We still get to drive it some in the winters here, and while I can get the filter on rockauto and oil at other online places where Oreilly's always has to order the filter, but cant get the oil. I should just stock up I guess. It needs a filter with a restrictor plate, due to way the oil filter circuit works. We have the window sticker where my wife's grandad bought it. I think the oil filter was an $8 option. You can see it is just a bolt on part that attaches to the drivers head, and then dumps back into the fill tube.
It does. Just a little further down. The filter is also supposed to not have a drain back valve in it. When you shut the engine off you can hear it all gurgle back to the block. I don’t know if 61 was the first year for the oil filter but it was close to it. They just didn’t filter the oil before that I guess. Also this only gets 1/2 maybe of the oil at a time just whatever goes to that head. So it eventually all gets filtered.
Does the oil get water condensation in it if it doesn't warm up?
We still get to drive it some in the winters here, and while I can get the filter on rockauto and oil at other online places where Oreilly's always has to order the filter, but cant get the oil. I should just stock up I guess. It needs a filter with a restrictor plate, due to way the oil filter circuit works. We have the window sticker where my wife's grandad bought it. I think the oil filter was an $8 option. You can see it is just a bolt on part that attaches to the drivers head, and then dumps back into the fill tube.
Gravity may cause the oil filter to drain out every time the engine is shut off. Without seeing how it's plumbed it could also cause a noisy startup as the filter has to prime first.
Similar to the Jeep Pentastar 3.6L oiling filtration system that a lot of people bitch about.
It does. Just a little further down. The filter is also supposed to not have a drain back valve in it. When you shut the engine off you can hear it all gurgle back to the block. I don’t know if 61 was the first year for the oil filter but it was close to it. They just didn’t filter the oil before that I guess. Also this only gets 1/2 maybe of the oil at a time just whatever goes to that head. So it eventually all gets filtered.
That makes sense. It looks like the filter was added after the engine was designed, and they found a pressurized gallery to tap off of and sent it back a pre-existing return. Simple engineering is rarely pretty, but usually effective. I'm sure it was a filter that just hit *some* of the oil each circuit, eventually getting most of it once in a while, as opposed to full filtering each circuit.
That makes sense. It looks like the filter was added after the engine was designed, and they found a pressurized gallery to tap off of and sent it back a pre-existing return. Simple engineering is rarely pretty, but usually effective. I'm sure it was a filter that just hit *some* of the oil each circuit, eventually getting most of it once in a while, as opposed to full filtering each circuit.
I must assume this is correct. The non oil filter cars probably had a fill tube without that port, or maybe just a boss that is undrilled. The pressure feed to the filter is restricted down to maybe .045, or .067 depending on the source. I also assume that that keeps pressure up in the rest of the head.
Its not messy to change just give it a few minutes to drain itself back down wrap a paper towel around the bottom and go for it.
February 16th, 2024, 02:35 PM
