ljam02

Ok guys, heres my first post. I've been reading all the other threads about bad blower motors and relays but most of them have at least one speed working. The blower on my 1972 Cutlass with A/C does not work at all. I replaced the fuse box and in line fuse and checked the resistor which is good. I also can hear the relay click when I move the switch from medium to high. The blower was working fine a few days ago and I did not hear it making any noises. I went to use it last night and got nothing. I'd hate to pull everything apart and not have it be a bad blower but can't think of what else it could be.

Any more ideas?

Thanks,
Ljam

hookem horns

Bad ground from blower to the firewall? Do you have power in the purple wire going to the blower with the switch on? If both OK sounds like the blower itself which means removing inner fender so check the easier stuff first.

ljam02

Hookem,

Thanks for the reply. I got home tonight and got everything I would need together and went out to the garage expecting the worse (bad motor). SO I figured I would try the power wire from the output of the relay, I had to pull it a little to get some slack on it and then pierced it and went to take a reading. I had to turn the key and as soon as I did the blower started working. So I went and started to move the car and the blower shut off. I then started moving the wire harness by the relay and heard it click on and off while I was moving it. I pushed on the connector on the relay and bent it out a little bit and it's been working since. I drove around for a while and it's still working. I did noticed that after a few minutes the relay housing was hot to the touch, not burning hot but hot enough. Is this normal?


I guess it figures since I was prepared to spend all night getting the blower out it's something this simple. I guess now I have the rest of the night to clean it......


Thanks,
Ljam

Lady72nRob71

Hot wiring connectors is indicating a problem! Corrosion builds up and creates resistance to the high current.
Time to pull off the plugs from the relay and resistor and clean / inspect each individual terminal. Check the ones at the motor and fan switch if possible.
It sounds a lot harder than it is. Come join me in Rob's Skule of Terminal Repair!
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...tml#post312739

If it looks as bad like my resistor connector, then replacement will be required. Simple rule - If it will not polish up, replace it.
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...tml#post322115

If the terminals look okay and fit snugly, then the relay could be defective as well (pitted contacts). It can be removed, case uncrimped, contacts cleaned and polished with a dremel, and reassemebled. Or buy a new relay. Do not use the blower until it is fixed.

ljam02

Thanks Rob,

The car has been parked tonight and tomorrow I'll pull the relay off and clean everything. If it still gets hot I have a new one on order that should be at the store tomorrow evening. I also have a new alternator coming from Jeggs tomorrow. I don't know if this is part of the problem but I was getting too much voltage out of the cigarette lighter. My passport radar detector keeps giving me a high input voltage warning. I measured the voltage and without the car running I'm gettin 16 V out of the lighter and when the car is running it goes up to 16.5 V. I thought about just getting a new regulator but for the extra few bucks I figured I might as well get the new alternator. I guess we'll see how it all works out tomorrow night.

Thanks,
Larry

Lady72nRob71

Measure the voltage in the morning, after the car has sat a while. If still 16V, your meter is reading high. If it is 12ish and it goes up to 16.5 when started, reg is bad.

ljam02

Rob,

Thanks again, I'll check it out tomorrow.

Larry

MDchanic

At 16v, you're alternator's working fine! It's your regulator that's bad.

- Eric

ljam02

Rob,
Sorry I had that wrong when the car sits it's at 12 V and when it idles it's at 16 V, when I step on the gas it goes up to 16.5 V.

Eric,
Thanks for you reply also. The new alternator is a 1 or 3 wire alternator so according to what I understand I wont need the regulator anymore. Also this gives me a chance to start to clean up the engine components. The previous owners did not take care of it and alot of things are showing their age.

I guess this gives me some things to do this weekend. First to clean and check the blower relay and possibly replace it, then the new alternator. Then its out for a long drive!!!!!

Thanks,
Larry

ljam02

Well I replaced the alternator and the relay tonight and everything is working fine now. I'm getting 14.5V through the lighter when I floor it and when it's at idle I'm getting 12V, no more warnings from the radar detector about high input voltage. Also have a nice shinny new alternator now.

Thanks for you help. Tomorrows project is to replace the door handles on the 87 442

Larry