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I have a 1967 Cutlass Supreme with a 8.2 inch diff with 2.73 gears. I am about to replace the old Jetaway 2sp trans with a 200-4R And I’d like to replace the rear end with posi 3.42. I’ve been told that my current rear end is pretty weak and pretty limited in choices of ring and pinion and posi. What other olds rear ends might I be able to use? I’m thinking something with the full size 12 bolt sizing if that can be found in the right width.
Based on the above, I think mine is a type “P” but I only have a 10 bolt pumpkin. It is probably important for me to mention that this car was hit in the rear long before I purchased it and had an incorrect Delta 88 drive shaft which I have now shortened, so this might not be the correct rear end.
It looks like I can buy the posi carrier and new ring and pinion for my rear end from Supercars. I’m thinking 46-206 for the carrier and 46-048 for the ring and pinion.
So, I got the rear end out of the car on Sunday and I spent a little time today removing the old bushings and collets. Man, was it ever difficult to remove the collets so the I can press new collets, bushings, and sleeves in.
The easiest way to remove bushings (assuming you don’t have the factory tools) is to use a air hammer (or chisel/punch, hammer and brute force) and collapse the outer sleeve. That removes the press fit and allows the bushing to basically fall out. This method won’t work if the replacement bushings require the original sleeves.
Another method is to drill a bunch of holes thru the rubber. Use a old drill bit, drill as many holes a possible to loosen the rubber from the sleeve. Some people use a torch and melt the rubber, while that method works I don’t like the stench.
Since you got the bushings out, this info is kinda useless now.
I used a basic puller to remove the center sleeve, then I was able to get the rubber bushing out with a little work and a screw driver. I did use an air hammer/chisel to colaps and remove the collate. I’m hoping I can use the ball joint press from O’Reiley’s to press the new bushings and collates in place since I do not have access to an actual press.
Last edited by babailey; February 24th, 2021 at 06:51 AM.
Pipe, 3/8" all-thread along with some nuts and washers works really well too. Basically, get a section of pipe long enough and large enough diameter to fit the bushing in, then put a washer on one end of the pipe with a nut on a piece of all thread. Put the all thread through the center of the bushing with a washer large enough to pull the bushing out but still fit through the control arm hole. Tighten the nuts and it works just like a press to remove/ install a bushing.
Pipe, 3/8" all-thread along with some nuts and washers works really well too. Basically, get a section of pipe long enough and large enough diameter to fit the bushing in, then put a washer on one end of the pipe with a nut on a piece of all thread. Put the all thread through the center of the bushing with a washer large enough to pull the bushing out but still fit through the control arm hole. Tighten the nuts and it works just like a press to remove/ install a bushing.
^^^^
This is the garage mechanic's version of the factory tool, below.
I got several boxes of tools and parts delivered today. It is my birthday and we got 4 deliveries today and they were all for me! That never happens. I get deliveries, but I, typically, get 1 box and the wife gets 3. So I celebrated my birthday all day long. I’ll be painting control arms and axle tomorrow with the intent to install the new posi, ring, and pinion on Saturday! Whoohoo!
I made a puller out of a bolt and a small chain. Slip the bolt through the end chain link, insert the bolt behind the seal, stand the bolt up so it contacts the seal on each end, then yank the chain.
sometimes the arm collapses and you need to stick some kind of spacer between the u channel of the arm closet to where you are pressing.
Pretty much all the time.
I've found that a section of angle iron cut to the correct length is the easiest solution. The factory specified special Kent Moore tools that were just U-shaped spacers.
Angle iron works well. In my last effort, I used a piece of Sched 40 Black PVC pipe cut into a 240' crescent, and inserted it around the work, on the outer/exposed.area. Worked pretty well.
Axle is painted and ready for the new parts. Unfortunately, some of the new parts were wrong. The Yukon ring and pinion were labeled BOP but the pinion shaft is considerably smaller than my original and it only has 25 teeth (for a Chevy). This has, apparently, happened in the past, Yukon was supposed to send me correct replacements but they let the box sit on the shipping dock for 3 days. Now I won’t get the correct parts till Monday which means a few late nights next week if I hope to drive to the Good Guys car show at Texas Motor Speedway next weekend!
I have the axle rebuilt with posi and 3:55 gears. I have good preload on the yoke with everything torqued down. I need to test backlash one more time and I might do another paint test. Hopefully this puppy goes back in the car tomorrow.
Well gang, disappointment. I thought my pre-load, backlash, and paint pattern were good, so I tore it all down and pressed on the pinion bearing. Not only was I wrong about the paint pattern, I was way off on the pinion shims and I did something stupid. I guessed at what the pinion shims should be and had the bearings pressed off, the shims replaced and then pressed back on. Once back home I found out I put .036shims in and I thought I had .030 shims in. So, I should have not had the bearing pressed back on, I should have gone back to square 1 with the honed out bearing.
I’ll be getting that pinion bearing pressed back off and start all over with the intent to get everything right and approved by monzaz before I press on a new bearing. Aren’t axles fun!
More bad news. I got the axle rebuilt properly today (at least I think I did it correctly). Preload, pinion depth, backlash, and gear mesh patter are all good. However, after I got it all buttoned up and attached back under the car, I tried to take her for a short test run. She started making a nasty clanking noise in the first 10 ft so I pushed her back in the garage and decided to take a shower and eat dinner. No idea what is wrong, I really thought I put everything back together properly, but I have obviously done something wrong.
More bad news. I got the axle rebuilt properly today (at least I think I did it correctly). Preload, pinion depth, backlash, and gear mesh patter are all good. However, after I got it all buttoned up and attached back under the car, I tried to take her for a short test run. She started making a nasty clanking noise in the first 10 ft so I pushed her back in the garage and decided to take a shower and eat dinner. No idea what is wrong, I really thought I put everything back together properly, but I have obviously done something wrong.
Kudos to you for doing the rebuild! But this is why I don't mess with rears, and am too old for this kind of aggravation. If I had someone looking over my shoulder for guidance it would be another thing. But as said I give you credit and once you get it right you will have this knowledge under your belt.
I used a crush sleeve and got to 10 inch lbs of preload. I did a lot more testing today and realized it only makes noise when I am turning. The gears are very quiet and smooth when I and going either forward or backward in a straight line. I am using appx 64 oz 75-90 GL-5 non synthetic gear oil and appx 4 oz of friction modifier. I’m using a new Yukon 26021 carrier with 3:55 ring and pinion.
I once ran a Chevy 12 bolt with a tight posi unit on plain 90w oil and it popped and jerked on turns, sounded as if something was gonna snap. Put in the limited slip additive and it smoothed out. So maybe you need to just drive it a bit more and let the additive get on the clutches.
If it only pops and clunks turning your probably ok. It might take awhile to work the limited slip additive into the clutches.
Find a big empty parking lot, make a bunch of wide figure 8 turns.
If that doesn’t work, replace the limited slip carrier with a spool. Then the pops and clunks will be replaced with the tires chirping going around corners. 😏
I am feeling more comfortable with the work I have done. I got a pinion preload of 10 inch lbs, I have a backlash of .010 and here is my gear mesh pattern.....
The gearing is very quiet in forward, there is a slight whine in reverse, and a barely discernible clunk between neutral and drive. It is still making a lot of noise when I turn but I believe that is getting better and I plan to add more friction modifier. I am very pleased that I did this but I’m not sure I will ever undertake this task again.
Last edited by babailey; March 23rd, 2021 at 12:38 PM.
Reason: Spelling
February 9th, 2021, 01:33 PM
