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New here so hope I'm asking in the right place.
Just bought a 69 442 and in everyday driver condition. When I turned on the headlights the fuel needle went way past empty, very dim headlights (have to use brights) but they aren't correct either.
The dome, map light, and any other one in the interior are non existent. The light **** has a bit of issues so probably need to replace that to start.
Any other place to start looking and address problems? Could it be a ground issue? Perhaps plan on new harnesses and fixtures
This will most likely be a slow tedious process - be patient. The first place to begin is an examination of your fuse box/panel. Pull/Examine each fuse one at a time noting exactly which fuse you are pulling/examining. Are any fuses blown? At a minimum you need a test light. If you have a DMM (Digital Multi Meter) that will work equally well. If you find a blown burnt out fuse, measure/test both sides of the fuse holder for voltage. Based upon which fuse "might" be blown, determine if that fuse operates in the key ON position or the key OFF position as there's a good possibility you have a short in one of the circuits.
Purchase a used paperback original OEM GM 1969 Chassis Service Manual (CSM) which contains the color wiring diagram - it is the BIBLE for your car. Get an original used paperback. Several out there, here is a really nice one. Do some research you might find less expensive (or you may not). You need the CSM.
To assist you ASAP, here are 1969 Wiring Diagrams. You should still purchase the 1969 CSM. NOTE: There are several diagrams on this post URL link. You want the A-Body wiring diagram.
Thank you chief, there really isn't much in these cars epically mine, would it be smart to update the fuse box with current type and get aftermarket harness as the motor isn't original in any way and eo on. Was thinking of installing current style lights and other items we use today. What do you think?
Thank you chief, there really isn't much in these cars epically mine, would it be smart to update the fuse box with current type and get aftermarket harness as the motor isn't original in any way and eo on. Was thinking of installing current style lights and other items we use today. What do you think?
Personally, I'd restore/upgrade/maintain the wiring, lamps/bulbs/sockets, etc. "If" you elect to update the fuse box to some current type, you're creating quite the labyrinth of extraneous wiring not germane to any OEM wiring - you'll be living in a wiring crow's nest, IMO. Only my opinion, but you're far better off troubleshooting what isn't working and resolving current issues. I think you're (more or less) getting ahead of yourself in some respects. You may not even need a new wiring harness, etc. Tons of members here to help/assist you w/ getting your car's issues resolved.
Post some images of your VIN dash placard, your data code tag (referred to as the cowl tag). If you don't know the exact engine (heads, block) size/type members will help you every inch of the way. What you SERIOUSLY must have though is the CSM...that should be your VERY first order of business.
Yes absolutely it could be a ground issue. Sounds like it to me. When you have multiple unrelated problems first thing I would do is check and follow all grounds. Starting with the main ground.
There are a bunch of high amperage circuits in GM cars whose points and connections can get dirty, wear, generate heat & melt. That can create all kinds of weird symptoms.
I’ve spent a fair few weekends in the boneyards and take note of what melts on a lot of cars. My 2 leading weak spots for GM cars from the 60’s and 70’s are the ignition switch and the headlight switch.
If you want to save a little time remove & inspect both the switches themselves and the plastic shells that connect to them. What you’re looking for is a melted shell. If the shell is melted, something got hot along the way. In the extreme this heat can melt the wiring insulation and cause a short which can be disastrous.
If you find dirty switches, replace them, or use DeOxit5 to clean them up. If you don’t replace, aim for good, not-burned switch points and clean, cool connections. If your points are burned, use a dremel to sand/grind the carbon off to restore good electrical connections.
With the plastic shells & terminals, pop the metal terminals out of the plastic shells with a tiny screwdriver; clean them up with a little 400 grit sandpaper or dremel with a sanding wheel. Take a picture of the wiring colors & pinout before you remove the wires from the shell so you know how/where to put them back.
While you’re chasing this down, you may want to do this clean up process on your head lamp bulb connectors too. Those bulbs take a lot of amperage and are constantly exposed to weather. Eventually they oxidize and need some cleaning to not overheat the circuit breaker from overloading.
GROUNDS....55-year-old grounds need to be cleaned.
Battery to block, head to firewall, battery to core support, forward headlight harness... Then start looking at each system's own grounds.
How's the bright light switch?
Unhook and hook up the headlights. Just the act of moving the plugs on the light bulb contacts can wake up a lazy headlight.
Nothing on the old cars is weather-tight like today's vehicles
October 11th, 2023, 11:05 PM
