70sgeek

I've read pretty much every post and blog I could find on this subject and all thus far indicate the dash has to be pulled, if not all the way out then at least mostly, to allow clearance to the hidden bolt behind the steering column brace.


But since nothing fairly recent has been updated I thought I'd pose the question again as to whether any cleaner shortcuts have been found.


My switch is physically broken inside so completely inoperable. In effort to avoid having to mess with a noise/vibration-free dash, I resorted instead to installing a '64-5 Lemans/GTO top switch assembly into my lower A/C vent panel - wiring is identical and the square chrome-bezel switch fits nicely in the space just to the right of the left a/c vent.


Would eventually like to replace the factory switch (I have a new repro part) but not on the chance of screwing with a tight dash.


any new thoughts?

oldspackrat

You don't need to pull the whole dash. Pull the fuel gauge & speedo & then put your phone in there with the selfie camera on. Then you can see the 2 1/4" screws/bolts that you need to remove to take out the switch. Really not that hard, just not real comfortable or visible. Should be an hour or less if you've never done it before.

vette442

Good tip about using the phone. I've done two of these working blind by feel from under the dash. Painful job that way....
Terry

70sgeek

I did try accessing the back of the switch that way (in my case with a small make-up case mirror), from inside the fuel gauge well - the bottom screw was inaccessible due to being blocked by the column brace - there wasn't enough space to get a wrench on it or to back it out. All I've previously read to date indicated the dash has to at least be loosened all the way across and pulled forward enough to create space to access the hidden screw.

oldspackrat

I have done this a few times myself and have never had to loosen the dash. However in your case if you remove the 9/16 nut at the bottom of that brace and the bolts that hold it to the firewall you should be able to get it out. Not sure why your car is like that.

70sgeek

I'll have to take another look at the brace area around the switch location - I thought the brace was actually molded into the dash frame, don't recall having seen a bolt securing it.


if indeed bolted, that could make the all the difference.

vmathy

I have done it without loosening the dash. Use a 1/4 drive thumb ratchet with a swivel and a 3" extension through the fuel gauge hole. It would help to have a double jointed wrist!

oldspackrat

There are 2 round metal braces that bolt to the firewall & are threaded at the bottom. Those studs, with a nut, hold the column up against the plastic lower dash. Those are the braces I'm talking about, not sure if they are what you mean? Here is a picture of the back of the dash for reference.
20170507_214408_zpspsygs5bv.jpg

troyd

I just replaced the top switch in my 71 convertible yesterday afternoon.

It's a PITA but, really, not all that difficult.....no need to remove or loosen the dash.


I pulled the fuel guage and speedometer......if you have a small mirror, use it to see where the screws on the back of the switch are. Really, you can feel them but the mirror does help.

I removed the screw on the top and then gently removed the wiring harness (small flat screwdriver helps). With the harness out of the way, the bottom screw is less of a PITA to get at. I used a flexible 1/4" ratchet extension to back out that screw. Upon further reflection....if you don't remove the harness, getting that screw would probably be next to impossible.

Replace switch....and reverse the steps.

Honestly, the biggest PITA was attaching the wiring harness to the new switch.

I am all thumbs and not particularly clever but this took less than an hour.......

MAW's.....lube the speedo cable and replace the cluster lights with LED's (cheap cheap from Amazon).

Sorry to raise a thread from the graveyard.... but for those like me that are not particularly mechanically inclined....this project is very doable.

70sgeek

actually good to see an update on this - I had previously gotten as far as accessing the back of the switch by hand behind the dash but couldn't get a grip on the bottom screw to back it out - it was partially blocked by the column brace as had been described in earlier posts.


My interim solution thus far was to install a repro '65 GTO convertible switch (same wiring pins and harness as the '72 Cutlass) into my lower AC vent panel. A semi-perfect solution barring my ability to replace the dash switch.

troyd

Like I said, pop off the wiring harness and you can guide the flexible ratchet extension down there without too much problem.....very doable with just a little patience.

I approached this with a lot of trepidation because, well, I'm a klutz, for one and reading the posts made it seem almost like brain surgery (I think Rob Young SHOULD have been a brain surgeon......reading his posts make make me feel like a lesser human being)....however, fear not, you can do it!

Cheers,

Troy

Kingfish47

*** Boy I sure hope u read these from day to day sir! My switch died caput!!!! Pulled the instrument panels like I said… speedo does not come out as I have no slack from cable. Any suggestions…. Are the bolts u speak of look galvanized??? And there are 2 of them? I have the tools needed… Any in depth advice???? Need it done by late tonight as sons prom is tomorrow

Vintage Chief

Remove the two screws holding the speedo gauge to the dash cluster panel - the speedo gauge is now free. The speedo cable is held to the back of the speedo gauge via a compression clip. Compress clip on both sides of gauge where cable is inserted and gauge can be removed from front.

Vintage Chief

70Convertible

Tools for removing screws
This image (great pic by oldspackrat) shows the location of the two 1/4" head screws: 20170507_214408_zpspsygs5bv.jpg
I have a '70 Cutlass Supreme and upon crawling under the dash, I can stick my head up just high enough and with a light I could see these screws. As shown in my pic, I was able to use a shallow 1/4" socket attached to a 3" extension to get the top screw on the right side of the switch. Then, I used the yellow handled driver extension and, this is important, used the deep dish socket. You cannot use the shallow socket! The 1/4" screws are not in there super tight so using your hands with the tools noted worked for me. No fuel gauge or speedo removed. No taking apart the dash. It would be helpful if you could pry off the wiring harness from the back of the switch as this will give you more room to maneuver.