Converting '53 Generator to modern alternator?
August 1st, 2016, 03:57 PM
#81
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So, in other words, you chickened out, eh?
Looking at the diagram, you can see that the thick wire from the A (Armature) terminal of the generator connects to the G (Generator) terminal of the regulator, BUT that
the battery (+) terminal connects to the B terminal on the regulator.
So, the B and G terminals on the regulator are not necessarily, or consistently, connected to one another.
You need to move the wire from the generator to the B terminal, along with the battery wire, or just extend and run that wire directly to the generator, entirely bypassing the regulator.
- Eric
August 1st, 2016, 04:10 PM
#82
August 2nd, 2016, 12:28 PM
#84
Well if I ever had any luck Eric I must be **** out of it....I ran a hot wire direct from the + side on the battery direct to the post on the Alternator and I'm still not seeing any change on the amp meter and still getting a massive draw when the lights are turned on....so looks like i've bought the only faulty Powermaster Alternator this side of the U.S.
On the plus side the battery reads 14.66 on the Multimeter, which is now my highest reading to date.
On the plus side the battery reads 14.66 on the Multimeter, which is now my highest reading to date.
August 2nd, 2016, 12:37 PM
#85
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You've got 14.66V. That means it's charging! You fixed it!
The alternator current is going directly to the battery through the jumper wire, bypassing the ammeter, which is why the ammeter isn't reading the charge.
Go have a pint, put it all back together, confirm about 14V at the battery, and go for a drive!
- Eric
The alternator current is going directly to the battery through the jumper wire, bypassing the ammeter, which is why the ammeter isn't reading the charge.
Go have a pint, put it all back together, confirm about 14V at the battery, and go for a drive!
- Eric
August 2nd, 2016, 01:04 PM
#86
You've got 14.66V. That means it's charging! You fixed it!
The alternator current is going directly to the battery through the jumper wire, bypassing the ammeter, which is why the ammeter isn't reading the charge.
Go have a pint, put it all back together, confirm about 14V at the battery, and go for a drive!
- Eric
The alternator current is going directly to the battery through the jumper wire, bypassing the ammeter, which is why the ammeter isn't reading the charge.
Go have a pint, put it all back together, confirm about 14V at the battery, and go for a drive!
- Eric
Your kidding? I already hit the JD hard in despair mate lol
Then why does the amp-meter show a draw on the power when I turn the lights on?
And how can I get my amp-meter to register that it's charging?
Eric you surely must be sick of this thread by now...
August 2nd, 2016, 01:08 PM
#87
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The car's electrical system is connected to the battery through a wire which goes through the ammeter, so that when those devices draw power, the ammeter deflects,
BUT the generator is connected to the battery by that jumper wire, so that its current is charging the battery WITHOUT going through the ammeter, so therefore the ammeter shows the discharge portion of what's happening, but does not show the charge portion.
When the generator is connected through the car's wiring harness again, the ammeter should tell you what is actually happening.
- Eric
BUT the generator is connected to the battery by that jumper wire, so that its current is charging the battery WITHOUT going through the ammeter, so therefore the ammeter shows the discharge portion of what's happening, but does not show the charge portion.
When the generator is connected through the car's wiring harness again, the ammeter should tell you what is actually happening.
- Eric
August 2nd, 2016, 01:26 PM
#88
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Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: New-Brunswick, Canada
Posts: 113
I am an electronics technologist. I have not answered any of your enquiries because Eric is doing a brilliant job of it, as far as I can tell, and does not need any help from me
This will be all over very soon I predict!
This will be all over very soon I predict!
August 2nd, 2016, 02:50 PM
#90
The car's electrical system is connected to the battery through a wire which goes through the ammeter, so that when those devices draw power, the ammeter deflects,
BUT the generator is connected to the battery by that jumper wire, so that its current is charging the battery WITHOUT going through the ammeter, so therefore the ammeter shows the discharge portion of what's happening, but does not show the charge portion.
When the generator is connected through the car's wiring harness again, the ammeter should tell you what is actually happening.
- Eric
BUT the generator is connected to the battery by that jumper wire, so that its current is charging the battery WITHOUT going through the ammeter, so therefore the ammeter shows the discharge portion of what's happening, but does not show the charge portion.
When the generator is connected through the car's wiring harness again, the ammeter should tell you what is actually happening.
- Eric
You know when I move to Maine and becomes Eric's new neighbor, he's going to keep me awake with banging and im going to drive him insane with... where does it go? how do I connect it? it's still not working.......
August 2nd, 2016, 05:34 PM
#93
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Location: New-Brunswick, Canada
Posts: 113
In case you need further clarification ... let me see if I can simplify the problem and solution.
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...723_151134.jpg
In the old system, you wanted the generator to produce enough current at a certain voltage to power the car's circuits and recharge the battery.
You want to achieve the same result, using a one wire alternator.
To do this in a simple and straight forward way ... I will suggest the following:
AT THE ALTERNATOR - connect the FAT wire that used to go to the A terminal of the generator ... to the alternator wire. Disregard the smaller wire that used to be connected to the F terminal of the generator.
AT THE REGULATOR - the wire at the F terminal is dead and has no voltage on it, rendering the regulator useless. Since the alternator output is already regulated, this dead F terminal is of no concern. The FAT wire that is connected to the G terminal should be moved and connected to the B terminal instead. This will in effect ... bypass the non functioning regulator and give you regulated voltage and the desired current at the B terminal ... just like the old system was supposed to do.
Inside the regulator, you could cut the internal wire going to the B terminal, if you are worried about any interference, rendering the B terminal into a simple connection stud.
The current gauge should now work as intended.
Since the system is fused against too much current passing through the wires ... you should be protected as before ... even though the alternator is probably capable of producing more current than the generator was.
I hope this helps to clarify the issue for you Nigel.
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...723_151134.jpg
In the old system, you wanted the generator to produce enough current at a certain voltage to power the car's circuits and recharge the battery.
You want to achieve the same result, using a one wire alternator.
To do this in a simple and straight forward way ... I will suggest the following:
AT THE ALTERNATOR - connect the FAT wire that used to go to the A terminal of the generator ... to the alternator wire. Disregard the smaller wire that used to be connected to the F terminal of the generator.
AT THE REGULATOR - the wire at the F terminal is dead and has no voltage on it, rendering the regulator useless. Since the alternator output is already regulated, this dead F terminal is of no concern. The FAT wire that is connected to the G terminal should be moved and connected to the B terminal instead. This will in effect ... bypass the non functioning regulator and give you regulated voltage and the desired current at the B terminal ... just like the old system was supposed to do.
Inside the regulator, you could cut the internal wire going to the B terminal, if you are worried about any interference, rendering the B terminal into a simple connection stud.
The current gauge should now work as intended.
Since the system is fused against too much current passing through the wires ... you should be protected as before ... even though the alternator is probably capable of producing more current than the generator was.
I hope this helps to clarify the issue for you Nigel.
Last edited by GaWajn; August 3rd, 2016 at 04:10 AM.
August 2nd, 2016, 05:35 PM
#94
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If you want to be fancy, you can make a little plastic tab to screw to one of the regulator terminals, and then screw the wires to the tab.
Or, you could remove the regulator, tape up the wire connection, and just stash it.
Stellar could probably tell you (without having to do lengthy research) which regulator terminal you could screw both wires to that wouldn't cause any current leaks.
- Eric
August 3rd, 2016, 12:09 AM
#97
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Location: Pittsburgh Pa.
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At new genny (alternator now) connect wire that was on old genny A post (fatter wire) to alt post. You are now done with new genny. This wire goes to reg Gen (center) terminal. REMOVE it from reg. Now connect it to reg Bat post with Bat wire (now 2 wires on the Bat reg terminal) Or remove both wires from reg Bat and Gen terminals and connect them together. Done
August 3rd, 2016, 12:14 AM
#98
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Location: Pittsburgh Pa.
Posts: 1,313
I do not know enough about the function of this regulator to be able to reliably tell you whether you can leave a wire attached or not (though I suspect you can), so my advice would be to use a small screw to connect the wire from the generator that went to the G terminal, to the wire from the battery (and the rest of the car) that went to the B terminal, without connecting either one to the regulator.
If you want to be fancy, you can make a little plastic tab to screw to one of the regulator terminals, and then screw the wires to the tab.
Or, you could remove the regulator, tape up the wire connection, and just stash it.
Stellar could probably tell you (without having to do lengthy research) which regulator terminal you could screw both wires to that wouldn't cause any current leaks.
- Eric
If you want to be fancy, you can make a little plastic tab to screw to one of the regulator terminals, and then screw the wires to the tab.
Or, you could remove the regulator, tape up the wire connection, and just stash it.
Stellar could probably tell you (without having to do lengthy research) which regulator terminal you could screw both wires to that wouldn't cause any current leaks.
- Eric
August 3rd, 2016, 07:39 AM
#100
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Location: Poteau, Ok
Posts: 40,624
Excuse my ignorance as I don't have a full wiring diagram for his car. Why are you connecting the G terminal to the B terminal. I'm assuming like most gen systems that the remainder of the cars electrical system is connected to the load side of the amp meter. I'm assuming your using the existing G wire to connect to the output of the new alternator
August 3rd, 2016, 10:08 AM
#101
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Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Pittsburgh Pa.
Posts: 1,313
Are we saying the same thing only differently?
Excuse my ignorance as I don't have a full wiring diagram for his car. Why are you connecting the G terminal to the B terminal. I'm assuming like most gen systems that the remainder of the cars electrical system is connected to the load side of the amp meter. I'm assuming your using the existing G wire to connect to the output of the new alternator
Excuse my ignorance as I don't have a full wiring diagram for his car. Why are you connecting the G terminal to the B terminal. I'm assuming like most gen systems that the remainder of the cars electrical system is connected to the load side of the amp meter. I'm assuming your using the existing G wire to connect to the output of the new alternator
August 3rd, 2016, 01:57 PM
#105
Well I did what other Eric said , because Stellars suggestion had lots of words and things to do (just kidding mate) and connected the Alt wire to the B terminal on the Regulator....and success!!
I like to say that your all a great bunch of blokes and I greatly appreciate all the help you've given me.
, because Stellars suggestion had lots of words and things to do (just kidding mate) and connected the Alt wire to the B terminal on the Regulator....and success!!I like to say that your all a great bunch of blokes and I greatly appreciate all the help you've given me.
Last edited by Eightbanger; August 3rd, 2016 at 04:43 PM.
August 3rd, 2016, 02:13 PM
#108
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He got no output when he hot-fielded (well, ground-fielded) it.
Regulator may be bad, too, but I think he's got an open coil somewhere in that generator.
- Eric
August 3rd, 2016, 02:57 PM
#110
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Location: New-Brunswick, Canada
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Glad it worked out for you.
I should have kept quiet because I tend to be wordy with my posts, and the other guys on here had you headed in the right direction anyways
I should have kept quiet because I tend to be wordy with my posts, and the other guys on here had you headed in the right direction anyways
Last edited by GaWajn; August 3rd, 2016 at 03:02 PM.
August 3rd, 2016, 04:47 PM
#111
At new genny (alternator now) connect wire that was on old genny A post (fatter wire) to alt post. You are now done with new genny. This wire goes to reg Gen (center) terminal. REMOVE it from reg. Now connect it to reg Bat post with Bat wire (now 2 wires on the Bat reg terminal) Or remove both wires from reg Bat and Gen terminals and connect them together. Done
Thank you mate for your help.
Taking her to work with me tomorrow.
Absolutely not Stephen, i'm glad of your input anytime long or short.
Last edited by Eightbanger; August 3rd, 2016 at 04:59 PM.
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