nohn

Just a quick question. I see what the ads tell us in the Mags, but I am looking for the cold hard truth without spending a couple hundred dollars to find it get it. Will a new ignition system (digital ignition box, distributor) make my olds start right up? The only time it starts right up is if it has been idling and then restarted. If I drive it to the store and try to start it again, it is harder (i have to give it gas) to get it to crank up. This is before and after new plugs, wires, and filters etc.

Oldsguy

I don't think so unless your distributor is very worn and/or damaged and then, simply replacing the distributor with a new one would also fix your problem. I would take a serious look at the complete tune-up including the carburetor settings before buying an electronic ignition replacement for your car. Point gap (dwell), timing, vacuum advance, vacuum leaks, etc. You didn't mention if you replaced the points, rotor and cap. That could help as well. Finally, your carburetor may be causing your trouble, you may have to rebuild it. It is really hard to trouble shoot someone's problem over the internet but I think I have hit all the possibilities. Maybe someone else will think of more.

Olds64

I would definitely rebuild the carburetor on your engine. I feel that is something that should be done in every basic tune up. Especially if you just purchased the vehicle.

Pfiffle

Not to hijack the thread but what brand/company rebuild kit would you recommend for Rochesters?

70oldsW30

It is hard (or impossible) to troubleshoot over the internet but I can't help but ask how it starts when you first crank it in the morning and then how it behaves when it gives you problems starting it later after having driven it somewhere.

I have rebuilt a lot of rochester and if you mean what kit from the local parts store then I have never noticed one brand to be particularly better than another. I've seen a few of the parts supplied that I liked beter than the other but I've never equated it with the brand of kit. Anyway, I'm no carb expert but that's my experience.

Olds64

There is no particular brand of rebuild kit you need to get. You just need to make sure the rebuild is done correctly. Make sure you have the throttle plate bushings replaced. You also need to seal the bottom of the jet wells. These will be easy to see on the bottom of the fuel bowl.

J-(Chicago)

A lot of times the simplest solution is spending a few dollars on a new fuel pump. They tend to get drainback even after 40 or 50000 miles. Carburetor choke adjustments and timing also play a big factor in the equation. Ideally it's turn key and go, but we all know that it doesn't work out so well most times. If your choke is opening properly and your fuel pump is in tip top shape, you should be able to have it started on the first crank be it 2 seconds or 5 seconds. If you are having to pump the gas pedal repeatedly before starting, I'd put another pump in. Olds fuel pumps should pump every time the engine moves and turns because the metal hook rides on the engine internals.

nohn

Thanks for all the replies. I'm sorry, I feel like I wasted everyone’s time because I didn't mention the fact that the carb is only 3 few months old (Edelborck performer 650). The cap and rotor, fuel lines, and mani also new. I will see about getting a new fuel pump to see if that will help. Some of the other things as in the timing, vacuum advance, vacuum leaks will have to until I return to the states in OCT. to have it checked. I have to put off too much new stuff and work until I return. I am putting out too muck money in the next few months for paint and new interior (Italian leather). The new interior is getting put in as I type. I will post pic’s when the car returns. By the way the fuel pump and distributer are original.

Now when I start it in the morning I pump the gas about 3 or 4 times then turn the key. It gives a rararara and like a cough as if it is going to start. It will do that a few times then I stop and repeat the pumping and start again. Then it will start after the third time. It idles high for about 5 sec and then idle low. I give it a little gas and then it is good to go. Once it is warmed up I can turn it off for up to 30 min and it will start right up. After I drive it and come back to start it, it doesn't matter if it is 5 or 25 min I have to give it gas to start. It doesn't take as long but it isn't turn the key and start.

Oldsguy

Since you have changed so many things I think it isn't faulty parts, it is just that you need to a good, accurate tune-up to fix the first start in the morning problem (probably initial timing). To fix the second problem after it is driven a while and then turned off, it sounds like you may have to fine tune the carburetor a little. I have used Edelbrocks right out of the box without trouble but you never know. And, it may be your fuel pump as noted earlier. The fast idle bumping down to a slow idle is how a cold start should be, that isn't a problem. As I read more, your hot start problem also may be heat from your intake manifold installation. Did you use the turkey tray? It prevents excessive hot oil splashing on the underside of the manifold (possible, but not probable cause, just trying to hit all options).