How to fix rear window defroster on N-Body cars

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Old January 3rd, 2009, 09:17 PM
  #1  
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Location: Far Northeast Philadelphia, PA
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How to fix rear window defroster on N-Body cars

This may also work with other newer GM cars, but I'm not sure

I did it today, boy it feels good to have a rear window defroster after being broken for about 5 years. I just wanted to know how to do it before tearing into the job, plus I always thought it was the modular itself that was bad, but it's the plug that melts causing the defroster to not work



Tool for the job.



Breaker bar (3/8 drive)

10mm socket (1/4 drive)

1/4 drive socket

3/8 drive socket

t-50 socket (3/8 drive)

Thick pilers

small screwdriver

wire stripper and connecters for no soder

DSCN1254.jpg

and for sodering

Sodering iron

Thinest electrical soder as possible

DSCN1255.jpg


Remember some steps are for 2 door models only


1. (2 door model) Use a T-50 to remove the seat belt bolt, use a breaker bar if necessary, it will move


DSCN1226.jpg

DSCN1227.jpg


2. Use a small flathead screwdriver to pry out the plastic pin holding in the coat hook.

DSCN1228.jpg


3. Fold down the rear seat.

DSCN1225.jpg


4. Gently pull the trim piece away from the body. Work around the edges.

DSCN1231.jpg


5. (2 door model???) Pull out this small panel. This prevented me from pulling the panel completely off the body. This has the hinge bar going thru for the fold down seats. Just pull and leave hang

DSCN1232.jpg


6. Now you can see the mod on the "C" pillar

DSCN1233.jpg


7. Unplug the window connectors

DSCN1234.jpg


8. Unplug the main plug from the mod. I pulled mine thru the seat belt area.

DSCN1235.jpg



9. Use a 1/4 drive socket and a 10mm socket to remove the bolt from the body

DSCN1237.jpg



10. Pull the mod down and out from the seat belt area, and unplug the radio antenna

DSCN1238.jpg



11. Now both plugs are free

DSCN1239.jpg



12. As you can see in step 8, the plug is melted away.Now you can cut the plug off and go to Step 13, or you can do this for sodering. Get the small screwdriver you used to remove the coat hook in step 2, and jam into the sides of the remaining plug. If it's melted away, it should be easy to break.

DSCN1236.jpg

DSCN1242.jpg

DSCN1243.jpg


13. To finish the job, a nice beefy pair of plyers to crack the casing off




14. Remove the plug from the wires. You are not reusing the plug so it doesn't matter if you break it, just don't break the connecters inside it.




15. Open the mod around the egdes with the same small screwdriver. I bought another at the junkyard beforehand becuase I though the mod was the problem

DSCN1246.jpg
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Old November 22nd, 2013, 09:42 PM
  #2  
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Posts: 1
Thanks for the walk though. My car has already been repaired once with the improved harness with two heavier wires but both grey and the same gage. Looking at the module I suspect they reversed the wires. Does the black heavier wire go to the inside, the retaining tab side of the harness? The thinner green to the smooth outside edge of the connector closest to the edge of the module? ( reverse is currently on mine) thanks.

Originally Posted by Redog
This may also work with other newer GM cars, but I'm not sure

I did it today, boy it feels good to have a rear window defroster after being broken for about 5 years. I just wanted to know how to do it before tearing into the job, plus I always thought it was the modular itself that was bad, but it's the plug that melts causing the defroster to not work



Tool for the job.



Breaker bar (3/8 drive)

10mm socket (1/4 drive)

1/4 drive socket

3/8 drive socket

t-50 socket (3/8 drive)

Thick pilers

small screwdriver

wire stripper and connecters for no soder



and for sodering

Sodering iron

Thinest electrical soder as possible




Remember some steps are for 2 door models only


1. (2 door model) Use a T-50 to remove the seat belt bolt, use a breaker bar if necessary, it will move







2. Use a small flathead screwdriver to pry out the plastic pin holding in the coat hook.




3. Fold down the rear seat.




4. Gently pull the trim piece away from the body. Work around the edges.




5. (2 door model???) Pull out this small panel. This prevented me from pulling the panel completely off the body. This has the hinge bar going thru for the fold down seats. Just pull and leave hang




6. Now you can see the mod on the "C" pillar




7. Unplug the window connectors




8. Unplug the main plug from the mod. I pulled mine thru the seat belt area.





9. Use a 1/4 drive socket and a 10mm socket to remove the bolt from the body





10. Pull the mod down and out from the seat belt area, and unplug the radio antenna





11. Now both plugs are free





12. As you can see in step 8, the plug is melted away.Now you can cut the plug off and go to Step 13, or you can do this for sodering. Get the small screwdriver you used to remove the coat hook in step 2, and jam into the sides of the remaining plug. If it's melted away, it should be easy to break.








13. To finish the job, a nice beefy pair of plyers to crack the casing off




14. Remove the plug from the wires. You are not reusing the plug so it doesn't matter if you break it, just don't break the connecters inside it.




15. Open the mod around the egdes with the same small screwdriver. I bought another at the junkyard beforehand becuase I though the mod was the problem

Joseph Maisano is offline  
Old November 23rd, 2013, 05:22 AM
  #3  
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Location: Mo-Ray-Al, K-Bec.
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They used the defroster grid for your antenna? Groovy.
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