Starting Problem(Electrical)
#1
Dr.Olds Illegitimate Son
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Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Katepwa Lake, Sk Canada
Posts: 104
Starting Problem(Electrical)
Well my '71 442 has a problem starting.
No its not the starter or the other componenets.
When I turn the ignition cylinder, it some times goes and sometimes not. More often not. Is it the cylinder or something else . Is there a relay or something like that involved. When the car ran for a bit it would not turn over. Not even a click.
Ideas ? Please !
No its not the starter or the other componenets.
When I turn the ignition cylinder, it some times goes and sometimes not. More often not. Is it the cylinder or something else . Is there a relay or something like that involved. When the car ran for a bit it would not turn over. Not even a click.
Ideas ? Please !
#2
Does the key physically revolve and nothing happens?
If so, it may be the ignition switch or neutral switch, providing that the solenoid and starter are good as you mentioned.
If the key wont move, then it is the lock cylinder and or mechanism...
>>When the car ran for a bit it would not turn over. Not even a click
When I read this, I assume it ran but would not restart... If so, i might think it is the solenoid getting heat soaked. Does the starter have the heat shield/bracket on it? I am assuming this is the 455 engine...
Often these brackets are often not reinstalled by cheap mechanics that replace starters... The bracket actually shields the solenoid from the exhaust manifold...
If so, it may be the ignition switch or neutral switch, providing that the solenoid and starter are good as you mentioned.
If the key wont move, then it is the lock cylinder and or mechanism...
>>When the car ran for a bit it would not turn over. Not even a click
When I read this, I assume it ran but would not restart... If so, i might think it is the solenoid getting heat soaked. Does the starter have the heat shield/bracket on it? I am assuming this is the 455 engine...
Often these brackets are often not reinstalled by cheap mechanics that replace starters... The bracket actually shields the solenoid from the exhaust manifold...
#5
If I remember right, the neutral/reverse switch is towards the base of the steering column. It may have some heavy green or purple wires going to it, with maybe 3 more wires to it also.
The ignition switch is closer towards the cylinder on the underside of the column. It will have many more wires.
I will take a look when I get home and look in the service manual also.
The ignition switch is closer towards the cylinder on the underside of the column. It will have many more wires.
I will take a look when I get home and look in the service manual also.
#6
Okay, this photo is from my 72, which is column shift.
Pardon my poor drawing skills, as I failed art class...
The ignition switch is at the top of the column, below the arrow - follow that thick purple starter solenoid wire to it.
The neutral switch on column shift cars is pictured. The two thick purple wires are what you are concerned about.
With the connector NOT removed, use a volt meter or test light on each of the connections, other side of the light or meter to ground.
Turn the key to start and see what the meter or light does.
If both wires have 12 volts (or test light lights up), then suspect starter solenoid.
If neither wire has 12 volts (or test light does not light up), then suspect ignition switch.
If only one wire has 12 volts (or light lights up on one only), then neutral switch is bad or out of adjustment.
Of course this all assumes good wire connections, fuses, etc.
Also this assumes 71 cars were similar to 72, and I think they are close enough for troubleshooting.
The manual page shows the neutral switch for column shift cars. The wires should be the same though.
Good luck!
Pardon my poor drawing skills, as I failed art class...
The ignition switch is at the top of the column, below the arrow - follow that thick purple starter solenoid wire to it.
The neutral switch on column shift cars is pictured. The two thick purple wires are what you are concerned about.
With the connector NOT removed, use a volt meter or test light on each of the connections, other side of the light or meter to ground.
Turn the key to start and see what the meter or light does.
If both wires have 12 volts (or test light lights up), then suspect starter solenoid.
If neither wire has 12 volts (or test light does not light up), then suspect ignition switch.
If only one wire has 12 volts (or light lights up on one only), then neutral switch is bad or out of adjustment.
Of course this all assumes good wire connections, fuses, etc.
Also this assumes 71 cars were similar to 72, and I think they are close enough for troubleshooting.
The manual page shows the neutral switch for column shift cars. The wires should be the same though.
Good luck!
#8
Before you go taking things apart, verify that the problem is not simply an adjustment issue with the neutral safety switch. Turn the key to ON to unlock the steering column, then shift into neutral and try to start the car. With the brakes firmly applied, try jiggling the shifter around neutral (even to the point of getting a little ways into R or D). If the engine cranks, you've likely got an adjustment issue on the neutral safety switch.
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