jpc647

Hi guys.

Drove the car to a local cruise and on the way home I noticed the turn signals don't blink(on the dash or the outside) when the headlights are on. They work if I just step on the brakes and turn them one but with the headlights, nothing.

Not even sure what to check? This one seems like it's going to be fun...

MDchanic

Year and model, please.

First guess: This is a '68 or later with sidemarker lights, and the problem happens with headlights OR parking lights on.

The front signals are wired through the sidemarkers, so look for a short in front sidemarker wiring or bulbs.

- Eric

Del70

I had a weak/slow signal pattern a few years back. I replaced the 'turn signal flasher' and it fixed the issue in my case ..fyi

joe_padavano

This is a classic bad ground problem at one or more of the sockets. The 1157 bulb has two filaments with a common ground connection. When the ground goes bad, the turn signal filament grounds through the parking light circuit. When the park lights are off, the turn signals work fine (though will likely be dim and flash at a different rate than normal since there are now two filaments in series instead of just one). With the park lights on, there is now +12V on both sides of the filament, so the turn signals don't work.

Verify that the problem occurs with just the park lights on as well as with the headlights on, and if so, check the grounds both at the harness lug connections and within the sockets.

jpc647

Sorry it's a 1972 Cutlass. 350 motor. Something else appears to be wrong. I went to start the car this afternoon to leave work and it would start, like the battery was dead. Jumped it with my battery pack, drove it around for a half hour, no problems. shut it off, and I haven't tried to start it. Going to charge the battery pack first.


That makes sense. Thanks. I do remember having problems with the little pin in the lights last time I changed the bulbs. Those sockets are a huge PITA. That's probably whats wrong, and I tried spraying them and getting them to loosen up to no avail... That's depressing...
Now I changed the voltage regulator last weekend, and I drove the car about 120 miles yesterday, no problems. Started fine at least 4 times. I noticed the blinker problem about a mile from the house.

jpc647

double post... sorry.

MDchanic

Last time I checked, 1972 > 1968, and all cars made after 1968 had sidemarkers.





Did you check the voltage output after changing the regulator?

- Eric

jpc647

Haha, yes you are right. I was posting the year for everyone to know. Given the battery was dead when I left this afternoon, I'll most likely be determing that problem first, as if the battery was almost dead, could be why the signals weren't working. Sorry if my response didn't make sense the first time.

[QUOTE=MDchanic;547493
Did you check the voltage output after changing the regulator?

- Eric[/QUOTE]

I didn't. I just slapped the new one on an called it a day. :/

jpc647

Hi guys. So it appears two of the wires going into the voltage regulator had come out from the plug. The battery would show 12.3 volts without the car running, put it wouldn't have enough juice to engage the starter.

All my turn signals and tail lights work again... Stange.

But now, I've driven it about an hour, the Gen light come ones and a buzzer(sounds like the key in ignition door open buzzer) will ring when I'l slowly crusing at 30 or below and decelerating to a stop. Seems to usually go away once I stop.

Is the battery still just not fully charged back up to it's "normal" state? Car will start and run fine. Everything works okay...

MDchanic

You need to install a voltmeter (even temporarily) to see what's going on.
Plugging your digital VOM into the cigarette lighter or one of the plugs in the fusebox would be fine to give you a general idea (although may read a bit low for the more discerning).

Is the new regulator mechanical or electronic? If mechanical, the buzzing could be the regulator (and it's not supposed to do that).

- Eric

jpc647

How would I plug it into the cigarette lighter? The VOM has the red and black pin plugs on it, not acutal leads.

The new voltage regulator is a standard auto parts VR103. I think it's electric? I'm not sure(sorry... :/)

Part here: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=45614 (just for reference)

Since I plugged it back in, the car seems okay. Starts up and everything, stays running. The buzzing comes and goes. Like I said, it sounds like the noise from the buzzer when you leave the key in the ignition and open the door. Maybe it's not that buzzer, but sounds like it. Definately coming from in the car, and not the boltage reg...

MDchanic

1. Get a cigarette lighter plug (like from an old device you never use anymore, or from Radio Shack)

2. Cut off wires from device.

3. Attach wires to meter.



It's mechanical, as far as I can tell.



Since the voltage regulator is mounted to the engine side of the firewall, right next to the key buzzer (neither one is inside), I doubt that you can say that with complete certainty.

- Eric

Rickman48

The lighter is usually 'hot' at all times - be carefull!