1969 442 cowl tag
#1
1969 442 cowl tag
Hey everyone,
I know there are a lot of these threads for decoding but I just wanted to ask if it was normal for a lot of the codes to be blotched out like this?
vin: 344
thanks!
I know there are a lot of these threads for decoding but I just wanted to ask if it was normal for a lot of the codes to be blotched out like this?
vin: 344
thanks!
Last edited by Pitbull2o08; October 24th, 2023 at 12:03 PM.
#3
#4
#6
It's still possible that your car is some kind of weird re-body situation (that cowl tag is pretty strange) but be assured that there are thousands of other 68-9 4-4-2s out there with the same cowl tag/VIN inconsistency.
Do you know if you car has the original engine? If it does, checking it for the VIN derivative might lock things down nicely.
Do you know if you car has the original engine? If it does, checking it for the VIN derivative might lock things down nicely.
#7
It's still possible that your car is some kind of weird re-body situation (that cowl tag is pretty strange) but be assured that there are thousands of other 68-9 4-4-2s out there with the same cowl tag/VIN inconsistency.
Do you know if you car has the original engine? If it does, checking it for the VIN derivative might lock things down nicely.
Do you know if you car has the original engine? If it does, checking it for the VIN derivative might lock things down nicely.
right? The splotches look bad, but the coating is consistent on the tag
#9
#10
#11
Sorry, the first URL link is incorrect. It's only the pictures (I was reviewing them).
Here is the correct URL link on How to Identify a Muncie Four Speed
#12
#13
Sorry, the first URL link is incorrect. It's only the pictures (I was reviewing them).
Here is the correct URL link on How to Identify a Muncie Four Speed
Here is the correct URL link on How to Identify a Muncie Four Speed
#15
That is a beautiful looking car. Great color! The driver’s seat looks like it may be a bit worn but reproduction seat covers are an easy fix at some point. The headliner looks to be in good shape.Body, paint and engine look super clean.
#16
Not bad from a distance. Looks like it's a bit of a hotrod. Personally, I'd lose the towel rack, the re-pop W-30 inners, the aftermarket sway bar and the incorrect W-27 cover, but overall it actually seems pretty clean.
Get with the seller and see if he knows any history for it and if any paperwork exists. Also find out what he replaced the original engine with. I don't know how far you are from Alabama, but above all don't buy it without you or someone you can trust putting eyes on it.
BTW, what does he want for it?
Get with the seller and see if he knows any history for it and if any paperwork exists. Also find out what he replaced the original engine with. I don't know how far you are from Alabama, but above all don't buy it without you or someone you can trust putting eyes on it.
BTW, what does he want for it?
#17
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vintage Chief
Sorry, the first URL link is incorrect. It's only the pictures (I was reviewing them).
Here is the correct URL link on How to Identify a Muncie Four Speed
THIS Muncie ID has MORE DETAILS --
https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/16...d-input-shaft/
Originally Posted by Vintage Chief
Sorry, the first URL link is incorrect. It's only the pictures (I was reviewing them).
Here is the correct URL link on How to Identify a Muncie Four Speed
THIS Muncie ID has MORE DETAILS --
https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/16...d-input-shaft/
#18
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vintage Chief
Sorry, the first URL link is incorrect. It's only the pictures (I was reviewing them).
Here is the correct URL link on How to Identify a Muncie Four Speed
THIS Muncie ID has MORE DETAILS --
https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/16...d-input-shaft/
Originally Posted by Vintage Chief
Sorry, the first URL link is incorrect. It's only the pictures (I was reviewing them).
Here is the correct URL link on How to Identify a Muncie Four Speed
THIS Muncie ID has MORE DETAILS --
https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/16...d-input-shaft/
Those both are the exact links I provided above.
#20
these are my notes from conversation with owner.
Motor is 72 350. 69 carb is on it. He’s had it for 2 years. 98k miles.
the driveline is done. Brakes, calipers, hoses, lines. Needs tie rod ends, etc. But he’s gonna do it tomorrow.
he’s only selling to pay off the house.
PO did the floor pan. He did the trunk pan.
he’s a mechanic by trade. Body work was never bad. He painted it in the garage. Came out good.
new tires. Doesn’t leak anything. New exhaust. New driveshaft, New bumpers. New heater core. New blower motor. Has new door skins and new back panel.
he wanted to make it a daily driver. Put the 5 speed in it.
interior, transmission, old grill, old taillights, bumpers are shot. Badging that came off it, windshield trim. Old drive shaft. All in his garage.
it needs a dash pad put in. It’s not bad, just a couple cracks.
Original title is from Wisconsin. Previous owner is from northern Tennessee.
Motor is 72 350. 69 carb is on it. He’s had it for 2 years. 98k miles.
the driveline is done. Brakes, calipers, hoses, lines. Needs tie rod ends, etc. But he’s gonna do it tomorrow.
he’s only selling to pay off the house.
PO did the floor pan. He did the trunk pan.
he’s a mechanic by trade. Body work was never bad. He painted it in the garage. Came out good.
new tires. Doesn’t leak anything. New exhaust. New driveshaft, New bumpers. New heater core. New blower motor. Has new door skins and new back panel.
he wanted to make it a daily driver. Put the 5 speed in it.
interior, transmission, old grill, old taillights, bumpers are shot. Badging that came off it, windshield trim. Old drive shaft. All in his garage.
it needs a dash pad put in. It’s not bad, just a couple cracks.
Original title is from Wisconsin. Previous owner is from northern Tennessee.
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