When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I thought they all had a mirror on the fender... I didn't realize it was an option
EVERYTHING was an option on Dynamic 88's.
No outside mirrors were included on 88's at all.
Only 1 speed wiper with no washer.
Backup lights were an option.
Dynamic 88 was a pretty basic car.
Thoughts please, on a 2 barrel to 4 barrel conversion. Wikipedia says the 303, 371, and 394 heads and block are the same size. So, I wonder if a 4 barrel intake from a '53 303, or maybe from a '59 371 would fit on a '64 394? If I search for a 1964 394 4 barrel intake, I don't get many results, but I do see a 1953 303 4 barrel intake, and a 371 4 barrel intake, both look like my intake. Inquiring minds want to know!
Thoughts please, on a 2 barrel to 4 barrel conversion. Wikipedia says the 303, 371, and 394 heads and block are the same size. So, I wonder if a 4 barrel intake from a '53 303, or maybe from a '59 371 would fit on a '64 394? If I search for a 1964 394 4 barrel intake, I don't get many results, but I do see a 1953 303 4 barrel intake, and a 371 4 barrel intake, both look like my intake. Inquiring minds want to know!
Only 59 thru 64 four barrel manifolds will fit your engine. 59 & 60 371's were all two barrels.
The BS is particularly thick on Wikipedia.
Thoughts please, on a 2 barrel to 4 barrel conversion. Wikipedia says the 303, 371, and 394 heads and block are the same size. So, I wonder if a 4 barrel intake from a '53 303, or maybe from a '59 371 would fit on a '64 394? If I search for a 1964 394 4 barrel intake, I don't get many results, but I do see a 1953 303 4 barrel intake, and a 371 4 barrel intake, both look like my intake. Inquiring minds want to know!
If you decide to do this be sure you get all the correct throttle / transmission linkage parts to connect the 4 barrel to the trans. VERY important that linkage works correctly for proper trans operation.
Could someone with a 1962 Oldsmobile 98 ( Or maybe Starfire, 88 ) show me with some pictures how this A-body Seal is supposed to fit within the front guard. I have started to fit , as shown in the photos, but the top end is really doing my head in. The holes have all lined up for what I have done so far but then it does not make much sense. I would really like some help, preferably by way of photos, as the manual does not do into the specifics enough. These holes all line up But this front part does not seem to Not much help
I'll be able to snap some pictures from the wheel well of my '62 Starfire when I see it next. It should be the same as a '98, all '62 Oldsmobiles have the same front end. It's in storage so it might not be for another week or so, if you're still having issues then. Good luck, and hope you're able to get that mounted.
Hi, Thank you so much for replying and yes I would really like the help. Yes the Starfire is the same as the 98. As you can see from the picture the rubber holes match in the rear portion but I can not see how they go for the front. Look Forward to your help.
Is this the switch pitch linkage? Rest of switch pitch linkage?
Went out to the cars location today to get police check done for title work and to get a better look at the car. It's got 81k miles on the clock, 425 2bbl with the "A" heads on it. Definitely gonna be a project but I think it has good bones
The round gizmo that's hooked up to the throttle linkage, with the wires, is a throttle position sensor and controls the angle of the switch pitch.
The shifting of the trans is controlled by a vacuum modulator on the side of the trans and a governor in the rear housing.
Curious if anyone can tell me what these number mean? It's probably just part numbers and such, but there's a couple markings I'd like to understand. This is a 1964 394 out of a Dynamic 88 convertible, a standard tuned 2 bbl single exhaust car.
First, there's 585786- 4 1/8 Is that the casing/part number? And 4 1/8, is that the bore? There's also CFD next to the little wagon wheel looking thing, and a dial pointing to 6 o'clock, the 5, and on top there, it also say 98 The heads are stamped 23- I guess that's the standard compression heads (like 8.5:1, I believe), but there's also this tag that reads H-721071L Intake manifold on the front water jacket crossover, I'm guessing this is the part number. The exhaust manifolds are also stamped with a GM part number, and LH and RH (left hand/right hand) Also on the intake manifold, there's this D4, also next to little wagon wheel looking thing. This one looks more like a star in a circle- a pentagram?!
Curious if anyone can tell me what these number mean? It's probably just part numbers and such, but there's a couple markings I'd like to understand. This is a 1964 394 out of a Dynamic 88 convertible, a standard tuned 2 bbl single exhaust car.
First, there's 585786- 4 1/8 Is that the casing/part number? And 4 1/8, is that the bore? There's also CFD next to the little wagon wheel looking thing, and a dial pointing to 6 o'clock, the 5, and on top there, it also say 98 The heads are stamped 23- I guess that's the standard compression heads (like 8.5:1, I believe), but there's also this tag that reads H-721071L
Picture #1 4 1/8 after the casting number is in fact the bore size for the 394 engine.
Picture #2 The heads have 23 cast into them, they are not stamped. The H-72107L is not on a tag. That is probably the serial number of the engine and its STAMPED into a machined surface, usually on the drivers side head. This number should match the original warranty material for the car.
Last edited by OLDSter Ralph; March 10th, 2024 at 01:33 PM.
First pic;
98 = day of year,, 98th day of 1964
Wagon wheel CFD stood for Central Foundry Division, which ran the Lansing foundry.
All Olds engines were made in Lansing and were shipped to the various assembly plants.
585786 is the casting number, but is not necessarily the part number. 585786 was used for 1963 & 1964 blocks.
4 1/8 is indeed the bore size.
The dial at the bottom is a time stamp.
The large mark at the top is 12 midnight. Every dot is two hours.
So this block would have been cast around noon of the 98th day of 1964.
Second pic;
This is an engine serial number ( not a VIN )
The "H" prefix signified a two barrel carb. 721071 was a sequential number. And the "L" suffix stood for low compression ( 8.9 to 1 ).
There was no high or low compression head.
All '62 thru '64 394's had the same #23 head.
The compression ratio was varied by the depth of the dish in the piston top.
Last edited by Charlie Jones; March 10th, 2024 at 05:59 PM.
First pic;
98 = day of year,, 98th day of 1964
Wagon wheel CFD stood for Central Foundry Division, which ran the Lansing foundry.
All Olds engines were made in Lansing and were shipped to the various assembly plants.
585786 is the casting number, but is not necessarily the part number. 585786 was used for 1963 & 1964 blocks.
4 1/8 is indeed the bore size.
The dial at the bottom is a time stamp.
The large mark at the top is 12 midnight. Every dot is two hours.
So this block would have been cast around noon of the 98th day of 1964.
Second pic;
This is an engine serial number ( not a VIN )
The "H" prefix signified a two barrel carb. 721071 was a sequential number. And the "L" suffix stood for low compression ( 8.9 to 1 ).
There was no high or low compression head.
All '62 thru '64 394's had the same #23 head.
The compression ratio was varied by the depth of the dish in the piston top.
That's really interesting, and I thank you for sharing your knowledge. I'd like to learn as much as I can about these cars, because I own one, but also, I'm a bit of a history buff, and an engineer by trade.
Hi, Thank you so much for replying and yes I would really like the help. Yes the Starfire is the same as the 98. As you can see from the picture the rubber holes match in the rear portion but I can not see how they go for the front. Look Forward to your help.
Hello, and sorry I'm getting back so late. The last couple times I went to storage I completely forgot to take pictures of the A-body seal. I went yesterday and took a handful, they go from front to rear so you can see how the entire thing is mounted. If you're still in need of help I hope you find these useful!
Last edited by Telstar; April 3rd, 2024 at 12:56 PM.
First pic;98 = day of year,, 98th day of 1964Wagon wheel CFD stood for Central Foundry Division, which ran the Lansing foundry.All Olds engines were made in Lansing and were shipped to the various assembly plants.585786 is the casting number, but is not necessarily the part number. 585786 was used for 1963 & 1964 blocks.4 1/8 is indeed the bore size.The dial at the bottom is a time stamp.The large mark at the top is 12 midnight. Every dot is two hours.So this block would have been cast around noon of the 98th day of 1964. Second pic;This is an engine serial number ( not a VIN )The "H" prefix signified a two barrel carb. 721071 was a sequential number. And the "L" suffix stood for low compression ( 8.9 to 1 ). There was no high or low compression head.All '62 thru '64 394's had the same #23 head.The compression ratio was varied by the depth of the dish in the piston top.
So the engine number (serial number), is located on the head just below the bottom of the valve cover? If someone has swapped the heads, wouldn't that screw up trying to determine the engine compression ratio? You mentioned if it had an "L" that that stands for low compression. Would this engine number also be on the block so it's possible to verify if the heads are correct (original) for that engine? Thanks, Rick
So the engine number (serial number), is located on the head just below the bottom of the valve cover? If someone has swapped the heads, wouldn't that screw up trying to determine the engine compression ratio? You mentioned if it had an "L" that that stands for low compression. Would this engine number also be on the block so it's possible to verify if the heads are correct (original) for that engine? Thanks, Rick
There are no stamped numbers on the block.
And it wouldn't matter anyway, the same block was used for all engines.
The same head was also used for all engines.
The compression was varied by the depth of a "dish" in the top of the piston.
After sixty years it is entirely possible that parts may have been exchanged or even whole engines.
When in doubt, use premium fuel.
Where are you guys getting suspension parts, body mount bushings and such?
Also want to convert to 2 chamber master cylinder and replace generator with alternator.
What about things like wiper switches and stuff?
I know it's gonna be a chore to find some things but when I seen her I had to have her.
Last edited by Mikeyt; April 23rd, 2024 at 02:53 AM.
Where are you guys getting suspension parts, body mount bushings and such?
Also want to convert to 2 chamber master cylinder and replace generator with alternator.
I was able to get some new body mounts for my '63 from Ames Performance Engineering.
They have them listed by size on page 270 of their full size car catalog . Ames Performance Engineering
More important than a dual master cylinder, is proper maintenance of the existing system.
Pull all four drums and inspect for leaks of wheel cylinders or oil seals.
Make sure that the brake shoes are less than 50 percent worn.
Replace brake hoses that are old, cracked, or oil soaked.
Inspect all metal tubing, from front to rear, to be sure there is no flaking rust or damage
If you have any doubt about the master or wheel cylinders, rebuild or replace them also.
You already have a dual braking system, it's called a parking brake.
Make sure it is adjusted and working properly.
You will need brackets from a '63 or '64 394 to mount the alternator
A GM alternator from about '73 up with an internal regulator will probably work best.
Others may be able to help you wire it into your system.
Frankly, I wouldn't worry about this as long as the generator works properly.
Last edited by Charlie Jones; April 23rd, 2024 at 12:55 PM.
I was able to get some new body mounts for my '63 from Ames Performance Engineering.
They have them listed by size on page 270 of their full size car catalog . Ames Performance Engineering
More important than a dual master cylinder, is proper maintenance of the existing system.
Pull all four drums and inspect for leaks of wheel cylinders or oil seals.
Make sure that the brake shoes are less than 50 percent worn.
Replace brake hoses that are old, cracked, or oil soaked.
Inspect all metal tubing, from front to rear, to be sure there is no flaking rust or damage
If you have any doubt about the master or wheel cylinders, rebuild or replace them also.
You already have a dual braking system, it's called a parking brake.
Make sure it is adjusted and working properly.
You will need brackets from a '63 or '64 394 to mount the alternator
A GM alternator from about '73 up with an internal regulator will probably work best.
Others may be able to help you wire it into your system.
Frankly, I wouldn't worry about this as long as the generator works properly.
Thanks Charlie!
Previous owner claims new brakes whatever that means but they do work very well. Parking brake does as well.
I will have it on a lift Thursday so will be checking everything for myself, lines and such.
The master cylinder looks original and I don't plan to replace it unless I have to open the system for other repairs then I figure I might as well do it all and update it best I can.
Generator seems to be working as long as your moving.
He says the lights will start to dim and flicker of you idle too long like in traffic.
I noticed it cranks slow if I take short trips and turn it on and off.
My main goal right now is making it as reliable as possible cause I'm gonna drive her everywhere.
Where are you guys getting suspension parts, body mount bushings and such?
Also want to convert to 2 chamber master cylinder and replace generator with alternator.
What about things like wiper switches and stuff?
I know it's gonna be a chore to find some things but when I seen her I had to have her.
Nice catch! Not sure if anybody mentioned, Craig at Mobile Parts, a longstanding member in this forum, has various parts, including brake and suspension parts. He helped me to locate an idler arm for our 1966 Ninety-Eight LS. Do not have his number handy, it is in the forum on posts about brakes especially. He does not have a computer, etc, Everything is done the way we did it years ago, he will help but do not expect an answer in 5 minutes!
I was digging thru a box of old parts and found this. I believe it came from a 1964 Ninety Eight four door my dad bought for the front clip to fit his 64 dynamic 88 convertible. He bought it in 1976, it came from Florida and was in pretty good shape other than it ran like crap and was in dire need of an engine rebuild.
I also have a "Ninety Eight" emblem that I believe was attached to the right side of the trunk lid just above the bumper. This part isn't in very good shape and is missing at least one of the posts to attach it.
If your interested contact private message me. Local pickup (near Lansing MI) or you pay the shipping and it's yours. I would rather somebody get some use out of it rather than sit in a box in my basement for the next 30 years and my kids through it away when I'm gone!
January 1st, 2024, 01:07 PM
62 Olds A Body Seal
