Best Way to Jack Up convertible
#1
Best Way to Jack Up convertible
I plan to change front springs and ball joiints on my 442 convertible. Since I expect to be a weekend warrior on this the car may need to remain jacked for a week or more.
Can anyone tell me the best way to support the vehicle? Currently I was thinking of raising the front by the cross member under the engine, then I would put 2 adjustable jack stands under the outer frame rail just behind each wheel well. For safety I will probably supplement that with stacked wooden blocks under the cross member (under the engine) where I initially raised the car.
Is this OK for the car? Alternatively I was thinking I could get wheel ramps and raise the rear wheels and then jack the front - this way the car stays level?
Suggestions? Comments? Thanks !!!!!
Can anyone tell me the best way to support the vehicle? Currently I was thinking of raising the front by the cross member under the engine, then I would put 2 adjustable jack stands under the outer frame rail just behind each wheel well. For safety I will probably supplement that with stacked wooden blocks under the cross member (under the engine) where I initially raised the car.
Is this OK for the car? Alternatively I was thinking I could get wheel ramps and raise the rear wheels and then jack the front - this way the car stays level?
Suggestions? Comments? Thanks !!!!!
#3
GM built their rag-tops of this era with a little extra bracing in the frame to take the place of the bracing provided by a steel roof which was no longer there.
The strength is in the frame and not the body. If this were a unibody car it might be different, but being a body on frame you will be just fine lifting the car in the way that you mentioned.
The strength is in the frame and not the body. If this were a unibody car it might be different, but being a body on frame you will be just fine lifting the car in the way that you mentioned.
#5
I was told at every gas station I worked at 40 years ago that you never jack up a car under the front crossmember/engine cradle, front control arms or the rear end.
They were these cars so think what you want.
I block the rear wheels and then go side to side on the factory lift points a little at a time until it's off the ground. Another set of jack stands behind the other ones for back-up and throw the tires underneath, wood blocks wouldn't hurt, boulders, railroad ties, stacks of hundred dollar bills, anything to keep it from going all the way to the floor if it does slip.
Don't lean on the car and keep the doors shut.
They were these cars so think what you want.
I block the rear wheels and then go side to side on the factory lift points a little at a time until it's off the ground. Another set of jack stands behind the other ones for back-up and throw the tires underneath, wood blocks wouldn't hurt, boulders, railroad ties, stacks of hundred dollar bills, anything to keep it from going all the way to the floor if it does slip.
Don't lean on the car and keep the doors shut.
#6
I always use factory points with 3 tonne car stands (mine is in the air as we speak) and 4 stacks of $10 bills in case it slips.....used to use $100s like Blue but $10s work just as well and they're 10 times cheaper
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ATrain1
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June 29th, 2012 12:58 PM