63super88

So I've heard a lot about Royal purple from a few guys, and its advertised on all the car shows on spike tv and such but Im unsure if I should go with it, ive been running cheap oil and after a recent issue im looking for the best ideas on what to run this time.

what do you guys think of it? is it an overpriced purple gimmick or a miracle substance?

and if I did use it, is it right for my 394? I do have a slight rear main drip and id hate to have purple stains on my driveway and the cars underside.

I was debating between this stuff, VR1 conventional racing, or mobil super with an additive.

drop top olds

There are better oils out there for the money in my opinion. If your car has a hydraulic cam I would run an oil this the proper additives. I have used shell rotella in my 59 Chevrolet for years after the engine rebuild with no issues.

slantflat

I use RP in my 02 Silverado. I think it helps the engine when I'm towing. Maybe it's all in my head. The guy that turned me on to it is retired from a paper mill in Mississippi. He had some machines that chewed up bearings like they were going out of style. He put Royal Purple in there and they ran like new. He swears by it. If you're going to use it, I would buy the HPS, it has the zinc that old engines need.


For my stuff that still needs zinc I use Brad Penn. It's semi-synthetic and has lots of zinc in it. I buy it at Summit Racing. You can look at their website and see where else it's sold.

63super88

does it leave purple stains when it drips?

what do yous think about the VR1 conventional race oil?

slantflat

Well, the truck doesn't leak so I really couldn't tell you what the stain would look like. But, like any motor oil, run it for two hours and it turns dark. I can pull the stick and see a slight purple tinge but I think it would just look brown on the driveway.


As for race oil I've never used it, but I think it's pretty thick and I've always heard that if the engine isn't actually a race engine, you shouldn't use it.

63super88

How about like rotella 15w30 diesel oil, will that have the added zinc im looking for? is that a bit heavy to run in this engine, or is it good and will protect tappets and such? I figure its cheaper, and it wont leak all over the ground on me, maybe even slow the drip. Plus ill replace a half quart with marvel mystery oil and thatll thin it out somewhat right.

Nilsson

VR1 is a good oil if you use 10w 30 only. All I find in my area is 20-50 and that is too thick.

63super88

the thing about vr1 is that I drive the car all the time, and it claims its not good for repeated start-stop cycles. it apparently has like 1400ppm zinc but its not meant for daily driving purposes. is that true?

royal purple claims to 'fuse with the metal' and such to make startups easier, and claims to be good for flat tappet cams and old fashioned engines. is there some truth to this?

so a rotella 15w30 would probably be a bit thick then eh?

oldcutlass

Like all oils, viscosity determines thickness

Again viscosity determines thicknes, diesel oils do not contain the correct amount of ZDDP as they also fall under the government mandate for catalytic converter as the newer conventional oils. Marvel Mystery oil will not thin the oil out enough to be a concern.

You can ask your parts store to order in the 10w30, in most cases they will. 20w50 can be used in older worn engines that have loose tolerences. I would worry about cold temp operation in winter with the thicker oil.

63super88

well I budged and bought the RP 10w30. I ran a napa 5 minute flush through the oil, and im letting it sit for 2 minutes before I drain it. would an additive still be good, like the lucas zinc break in additive or is royal purple more than enough for the engine?


also, the royal purple was only $5 more at walmart than 5 qts of vr1 at napa, and id have to wail til tomorrow for them to arrive, so I figured screw it and get the royal purple. was that a better choice anyway?

drop top olds

http://www.pqiamerica.com/March2013P...sallfinal.html

slantflat

And all of that means???


You won't go wrong with using Royal Purple, as long as you got the HPS version. The regular version doesn't have what an old engine's cam needs. Still, regular RP is a good oil and unless you beat the hell out of the car every moment I doubt you'd have a problem.

63super88

I got the plain 10w30 royal purple synthetic, filled the car then took a ride and bought a bottle of lucas break in zinc oil. I added almost precisely 6 ounces (1/3 bottle) and that claims to boost 5 quarts of oil 100 ppm zinc/phosphorous per 1 oz break in oil, and that chart claims plain royal purple synthetic has 837 ppm zinc and 706 ppm phosphorous.


by my crude calculations that would leave the zinc/phos levels in the car's oil now at approximately 1400 ppm zinc/ 1300 ppm phosphorous. how does that sound?


if this is so and say the additive did bring the levels to about there, is that adequate and about where this 394 should be?


i say I have a lot more confidence now than when I was running plain mobil super conventional. with royal purple, zinc additive, and a new napa gold filter I shouldn't be hanging up any lifters again anytime soon, would yous agree?

Tedd Thompson

I run Rotella 15 40 in my motor which is very much like yours and I have no problems.There is enough ZDDP and other additives to compensate for tappet and cam wear. Plus the lack of ZDDP is a very misunderstood and often misquoted situation. Use what ever you feel comfortable with but if you have some time on your hands read this It may open some eyes.... Or not...Tedd..http://540ratblog.wordpress.com/

63super88

my main question at this point is: is the royal purple 10w30 standard synthetic+ 1/3 bottle (6oz) lucas break in oil sufficient in zinc to lube the cam/tappets? thin enough to keep the lifters moving?

Bens71442

If not using roller lifters..Ie stock engine with stock lifters....10W-40 is THE most proper viscosity- Brad Penn has a High Zinc content, more than what any bottle of zince additive can possibly accommodate ...and is a partial Synthetic to satisfy having that word printed on the bottle because everyone thinks its marvelous for a old engine. yes- I'm saying this in a sarcastic tone.

Why would anyone want to use any other oil at the common retail auto parts stores that do not carry this Brad Pen is beyond me.

Easily ordered on-line or available at most mom & pop auto parts store ie speed shops (or you) who can get it on-line and shipped.

Enough with the Royal Purple- Amz-oil ya ya ya yada da your 455 were NOT designed for these types of oil.....

Brad Penn is whats currently on the market- that is as CLOSELY as possible- what the engineers of our old cars "designed" them to run in these engines.

ANY Synthetic oil out there is just great. For your Honda Prius- esp Ams Oil and Royal Purp

Since this photo - the 10W-40 viscosity HAS the Partial Synthetic "words" printed in orange to delight the consumer who feels Synthetic oil benefits a engine built in from 1897- through the early 1980's < another words It what belongs in a 455 from 1970 for ie.

BradPenn_zpsa8c0cadb.jpg