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Just got the body blasted yesterday, chassis is done, waiting for body. Need to have the body painted before cold weather this fall. I do all the body work and painting myself, can't afford to pay anyone else. Colorado car that was raced with a '66 W-30 engine, I put the block in my '67 442 and put the tri-carbs on a 455. Ceramic coated the headers that were in the trunk. $1500 to blast the body, hood, trunk, and fenders. New 200-4R transmission. Got the bumpers rechromed by El Paso Electro Plating, $1000.
Using original exhaust for now, saving money where ever possible. Not building a #1 show car, this will be a road worthy street machine to drive and enjoy. Overdrive transmission with the factory 3.91 rear gears. This is H/O #144. My '69 H/O with the 455, overdrive, and 3.91 gears gets 14 mpg highway.
Ready for Z code silver. 6 coats of primer with body work as needed every other coat and block sanding. Just finished 2 coats of sealer and block sanding. Including the silver paint have less than $800 invested in paint supplies. I'm not any where near a perfectionist or professional but can't afford a $15K - $20K paint job, so I do everything myself. I have more time than money.
Really nice Roger, I’m looking forward to your finished result. Again, kudos on your determination whether the motivation is financial or physical, your collection is awesome! You also have the bragging rights of building it!!😀
Fenders are primed and sealed ready for silver after many hours of rust repair and block sanding. A painter friend of mine suggested that I shouldn't paint the body silver and fenders/hood separately at different times because the silver will not match. So the body is on hold until the hood is ready for silver also and will reshoot the body and do fenders and hood at the same time. Any body run into that problem before? Now doing body work on hood, it's like someone walked on it.
...... A painter friend of mine suggested that I shouldn't paint the body silver and fenders/hood separately at different times because the silver will not match. So the body is on hold until the hood is ready for silver also and will reshoot the body and do fenders and hood at the same time. Any body run into that problem before? ...........
I have heard that from very good car painters. I don't remember all the factors, but I believe it. I am using the "Z" paint (with more metallic) on my '70 Cutlass "toy". Guess what I will have done....the silver will be painted on all parts......the same day, same temp, same "mix" of paint with doors and fenders on the body for painting..
Last edited by OLDSter Ralph; October 2nd, 2022 at 08:35 PM.
Metallic silver is an incredibly tough color to paint well, without getting blotching or weird shading issues. You'll want to look at tutorials on painting those metallics consistently; even starts and stops can cause issues, and you want all the panels on the same orientation they'll be seen on the car. Granted, GM painted those parts separately at Fisher body and they probably never matched from the factory.
Well I'm back, took the experts advise and finally ready to paint the "Z" code silver all at the same time. Since I had the black and pin stripe done last fall I hope it works out taping them off. Worked all winter finishing all the body work and block sanding for weeks. Wish me luck! I got the engine broken it and it's a beast.
May 27th, 2022, 09:01 AM
