Sticky steering wheel
#1
Sticky steering wheel
I have a sport steering wheel for my 71 442 (black rubber?) It is all sticky and I clean it all the time and it is still sticky. Anybody have a remedy for this or is the rubber just breaking down after +/- 36 yrs?
#2
Here ya go.
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...ng-wheels.html
to add to that, I remember reading a contribution on this subject someplace (could not find it though) by a person claiming to have chemistry knowledge. He said that the products used in automotive interiors (not leather of course) have a habit of "outgassing" with age. This "outgassing" of the plastic material is what attracts all kinds of hand sweat, dirt, moisture, etc that becomes the nasty, sticky mess we always experience on the steering wheels. No solution to prevent the outgassing as it will occur, just keep the wheel clean to diminish the build up of junk.
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...ng-wheels.html
to add to that, I remember reading a contribution on this subject someplace (could not find it though) by a person claiming to have chemistry knowledge. He said that the products used in automotive interiors (not leather of course) have a habit of "outgassing" with age. This "outgassing" of the plastic material is what attracts all kinds of hand sweat, dirt, moisture, etc that becomes the nasty, sticky mess we always experience on the steering wheels. No solution to prevent the outgassing as it will occur, just keep the wheel clean to diminish the build up of junk.
#4
I have the same problem with the headliner trim. I read that it was the plasticizer used in the vinyl that breaks down with age. I collect old toys and they have the same problem, especially tires, I don't do Barbies but they are known for it. I have never heard of a way to stop it, some say the gasses are actually toxic, but what isn't anymore?
Allan
Allan
#5
Outgassing is exactly the problem. The plastics used in these parts continue to give off volatiles. This spooge also condenses on the insides of your windows. I've found that the best solution is to use pre-cleaner solution. This is the solvent that's used to wipe down a car just before you paint it. You can buy a gallon at any auto paint store. The pre-cleaner will not dissolve the plastic. You will likely need to wipe the wheel down every few weeks or so until you remove the remaining volatiles.
By the way, pre-cleaner is a great thing to have around. It won't damage paint, but it will remove a multitude of residues, such as adhesives (from bumper stickers, for example), road tar, bug guts, grease, and many other nasty coatings. Pre-cleaner is also great for cleaning spark plug wires before a show, though be sure to check the compatibility of any date codes or other ink with the pre-cleaner before wholesale wiping down.
By the way, pre-cleaner is a great thing to have around. It won't damage paint, but it will remove a multitude of residues, such as adhesives (from bumper stickers, for example), road tar, bug guts, grease, and many other nasty coatings. Pre-cleaner is also great for cleaning spark plug wires before a show, though be sure to check the compatibility of any date codes or other ink with the pre-cleaner before wholesale wiping down.
#6
Good advice guys, thanks. While we are on the subject, does anybody restore these type of steering wheels to make them like new or am I stuck with this or a repro? How are the repros? I know people restore the plastic steering wheels and even wood steering wheels but I am not sure what they can do about this rubber wheel? (is it even considered rubber?)
#7
Outgassing is exactly the problem. The plastics used in these parts continue to give off volatiles. This spooge also condenses on the insides of your windows. I've found that the best solution is to use pre-cleaner solution. This is the solvent that's used to wipe down a car just before you paint it. You can buy a gallon at any auto paint store. The pre-cleaner will not dissolve the plastic. You will likely need to wipe the wheel down every few weeks or so until you remove the remaining volatiles.
By the way, pre-cleaner is a great thing to have around. It won't damage paint, but it will remove a multitude of residues, such as adhesives (from bumper stickers, for example), road tar, bug guts, grease, and many other nasty coatings. Pre-cleaner is also great for cleaning spark plug wires before a show, though be sure to check the compatibility of any date codes or other ink with the pre-cleaner before wholesale wiping down.
By the way, pre-cleaner is a great thing to have around. It won't damage paint, but it will remove a multitude of residues, such as adhesives (from bumper stickers, for example), road tar, bug guts, grease, and many other nasty coatings. Pre-cleaner is also great for cleaning spark plug wires before a show, though be sure to check the compatibility of any date codes or other ink with the pre-cleaner before wholesale wiping down.
#8
I know there are numerous companies that restore steering wheels. Unfortunately, I don't have any of them book marked in my "favorites." If you clean, clean, clean the steering wheel it should eventually get rid of most of the nastiness. A steering wheel cover is always another option even though it might look tacky.
#9
#15
Soap and Water
I have stripped many many cars, and yes many oldsmobile cutlasses..... Up until I discovered the value of Soda Blast stripping services of a local "hillbilly", he does an entire car for me for 500 bucks in 2-3 days, drop it off, pick it up cleaned and ready....
anyway. I always used strong detergent solution with water, and quickly dried the small area I worked at a time. I then douched it with "kwik prep", a wonderful DuPont product now copied by most everyone, more commonly found in the POR product line as a metal etch conditioner. Then a nice coat of 2 part metal etch primer like DuPont's "VariPrime" also copied by others, to then lay on some urethane filler.
Oh, sorry I was getting excited and reminiscing to my past time hobby,
Remember, shortcuts are "short cuts". Production must always heed to Quality Assurance to be successful.....
anyway. I always used strong detergent solution with water, and quickly dried the small area I worked at a time. I then douched it with "kwik prep", a wonderful DuPont product now copied by most everyone, more commonly found in the POR product line as a metal etch conditioner. Then a nice coat of 2 part metal etch primer like DuPont's "VariPrime" also copied by others, to then lay on some urethane filler.
Oh, sorry I was getting excited and reminiscing to my past time hobby,
Remember, shortcuts are "short cuts". Production must always heed to Quality Assurance to be successful.....
#17
#18
Although I haven't painted a car in many years, when I used to work a body shop, we used to strip cars with chemical stripper. After you scrapped away the old paint (and old body filler) we used to use a product called "precleano". Using water is considered a bad idea since the second that water (and all of the chlorine in it) comes in contact with the metal, it begins to rust. The trick is to use some type of mineral spirits to wash and neutralize the chemicals prior to sanding so you don't spread the rust around.
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