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So now back to the black 442. Pulled the bumpers in the Spring and dropped them with Tri-Cities at Carlisle. Picked them up this Fall and they look great.
Having never done a full resto, I am tackling each part as it comes off the car and making it ready to reinstall. Wire wheeled all the bumper brackets and painted them. Fixed up the Rear light housings so they are ready to go back in.
Now I am tackling the core support. The one in the car is toast. Hard to see but the battery tray area is completely rusted out.
I have a spare core support so that is next for the wire wheel, evaporust treatment, and paint. Slow and steady - right?
Something is always better than nothing and something that doesnt lead to going backwards is even better. Bumpers look nice, I did have a small chip of chrome fall off one of mine, disappointing it was but not going to make a case out of it. It is the first time I had an issue with a Tri City bumper.
So I just wire brushed 3 layers (and colors) of paint off the back of these upper tail light buckets. Are they supposed to be painted or bare metal? Before I paint therm, should they be painted?
Ok, scratch that, 1156s are not directional. Still can’t get them in. I feel like I need to trim the rubber boot underneath. But these are expensive and I don’t want to bigger them up.
Hmmm, never had these repro units....maybe the spring is too strong under the center contact. Maybe try pulling on the green wire while inserting or pushing on the bulb or maybe chew some of the lead off the center contact on the bulb.
The challenge is that there is no spring. Inserting the bulb you have to compress the rubber cylinder. It is not easy and I am concerned about twisting the bulb out of its base.
I agree and I wish I had some visible progress. I had an accident in the red convertible and spent 2021 getting that back in good shape. 2022 has been a whirlwind of a year with one kid getting married and two grandchildren born plus the backlog of delayed events due to Covid.
I did get the front and rear bumpers straightened and rechromed. Rear lights all redone. All bumper brackets wire wheeled and painted. Radiator core support cleaned, wire wheeled, and painted. But that is about it. Hopefully I make more progress in 2023.
Put the Chevy 12 bolt in for now. It's a relatively easy swap down the line if you re-build one of your existing rears or find another Oldsmobile rear.
A 355 gear is what Olds put in the 67 442 4spd cars. IMO the best choice here. The 390 I had in the red car was cool but not on the highway. You can find a posi unit if the non posi thing is a bother. That is what I did on my Pewter 67, found a posi on ebay and dropped it in after talking to our Rear Guru here Monaz. The rear I have in the Pewter car is a 69 Pontiac unit.
What 1st is in the 4 speed? I've been through them all- 2.20, 2.56, and now 2.99. The M22 2.20 will have you doing 30mph as soon as the clutch engages. The 2.56/M20 is pretty good all around, but the 2.99 is way better at the track.
I have 3.70s in a 9"; highway is about 3000 around 65mph.
Moving to the body, trunk first so dropped the fuel tank. Shocked to find the broadcast card. Unfortunately, it has disintegrated.
Thats always cool to find. I personally have never found one on the tank of a 66 or 67 Lansing car, I’m guessing it was a Fremont or Framingham car ???? Matt.
Great work so far , as for gear ratios my car came with the m20 and a 3.08 posi, it was my daily driver and with the 350 ran very well it wasn’t racer fast but it was fun, now I have a 455 and my builder said the 3.08 would be fine if not racing with all that torque??? I agree about the 3:55 I had that in my gto with the m20 and 400 was also very nice , anyway will be following along
Tackling the trunk floor. Ripping out the sins of the previous owner. Previous owner had riveted a sheet of steel instead replacing the floor properly.
You’re moving! Thats the important part.
Such a shame about the build sheet! Its so cool you found it but a bummer it’s so nasty.
Ive never found one in a mid 60’s car…only in a few 70’s.
Keep at it man!
It’s easier to stand in the trunk to fix the rear deck filer panel. But this makes no sense. I am not sure how someone could even make this hack repair. Has anyone ever seen this?
A wider view would give a better understanding of what is there, but yes lots of shade-tree repairs are usually found. The quarters were patched on my pewter car with aluminum foil and gallons of bondo. I had to replace the rear glass channel as well but could save the area between deck lid and rear glass.
Well, I am on a path all right. Hopefully the right path. Pulled the rear glass. More evidence of previous sketchy repairs. Rear glass is out. Interesting patches in the window channel overlapping the package tray. Actually two overlapping pieces
October 10th, 2021, 03:49 PM
