When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
For your hood pin brackets, will you keep the center hood latch on your core support and new hood or will you rely solely on the hood pins to latch the hood?
The center hood latch is the Primary Latch and includes a Secondary latch feature. The outer hood pins are the third tier for a locking system and should never be used as the primary system. I've seen, more than once, where a ram air hood has been folded back onto the windshield as someone was using those pins as the primary latch in drag racing events. A very expensive and dangerous way to latch the hood if just using the outer pins. I will, without question, be using my center hood latch as the primary hood latch.
This weekends work. The drama between the machinist and my short block build of my SBO has concluded, thankfully. Bottom line he screwed up his quote and I had to pay. Not a choice I like but with the overage under $1K, an attorney is not motivated to help. Currently is sitting at a friends house and expect it in my shop next weekend. Been working on my Dual Gate console, it was in worse shape than I remembered but probably better than many. The bottom section had a broken rib near the rear light. I made up a couple of repair ribs and used Epoxy to set them. I will use some heated wire to embed into the plastic to strengthen those ribs. I have to do a repair on the bottom supports, I'll get into that shortly. I need to reflock the armrest interior, Inline Tube has a kit, I'll pick that up this week. Ordered a new Dual Gate top and the trim piece that sits inside the console as all the chrome was gone. This piece will look really sharp when done!
Broken Rib Partial Rib repair will include new rib section and is currently epoxy'd in. Someone used too long of a fastener as you can see a witness mark of where the screw started to go into another screw pocket. The lamp lens require a short version of the 1/4" hex head fastener. Top Rib broke due to warpage pushing the lens to the left most likely over time. Can see the lens is net to the fastener at the bottom and has roughly one extra thickness off at the top. Broken support on the LH side that needs repair. Armrest pad top cleaned with all the fasteners bead blasted, primed and painted in Black semi-gloss. Top given a coat of Trim Shine. Armrest pad bottom with all the fasteners bead blasted, primed and painted in Black semi-gloss. Console top cleaned and given a coat of Trim Shine.
Last edited by oldsmike1972; March 27th, 2022 at 03:56 PM.
We have an engine in the shop! Finally!!! Got plenty of work to do on it including some proper paint. 355 cid SBO.
The basic rundown on Specs:355 cid Oldsmobile, 1972 Block.
Ported #5 iron heads (1968/69 vintage), heat riser blocked (used melted down low compression Olds cast pistons).
Harland Sharp Roller Rockers, 1.6 ratio
Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, gasket matched to heads.
Nodular Crank with Halo girdle and oil scraper.
TRW Flat Top Forged pistons 10.3 CR with a 64 cc head
Hydraulic Roller Cam/Hydraulic Roller Lifters
Balanced reciprocating assembly.
Fluidamper Harmonic Dampener
New ARP fasteners everywhere.
Will be using a Holley Sniper fuel injection set up.
American Racing Headers (1 ¾” tubes), Jet Hot ceramic coated.
Doing my mock up for the serpentine system and general fitting of many parts.
Pulled the covers to show the Harland Sharpe Roller Rockers.
Got a few parts on during the mock-up.
Temp cover not lining up, I have the other style that uses the curved hose. Have to try it... I have another used tube style, will need to measure it if it would fit better.
Water Pump pulley is sitting a little bit rearward, I think I'll use some shims so it lines up with the crank pulley.
The bracket is netting against the insert. I think I will either enlarge the hole to 9/16's or do a counter bore. I think the counter bore is a little more difficult but will be a better solution.
It isn't going to be fun timing the engine, not a lot of room to read it! I want to highlight the numbers and lines on the pointer to make it easier to see when timing.
I used a couple of flat washers behind the water pump pulley. The water pump gasket will pull it forward a little more. One washer will be enough for proper centering. Used another style of temp cover in the pic below, not really liking that design for what I'm doing with the car. I'm thinking the non tube version with the pre bent hose will work best here. The one the I have on the shelf has seen a few too many miles and has a bit more corrosion and pits in the aluminum than I care for. Used a button head fastener on the water pump pulley, gives a nice clean look. I'm using electric fans so it will not be having a clutch fan on the end of it. I can either anodize the snout sticking through black, give it a little bit of color with some Olds Gold or just give it a little wipe of oil every once in a while. I think the wipe of oil is best for now, I have to wipe the Fluidamper down with some oil anyway to keep flash rust away
Those pulleys are really shiny, I like the bling factor! The serpentine brackets look heavy, are they steel or aluminum? Does the factory PS pump fit or do you have to use a later model PS pump? Looks like the water pump will turn the opposite direction. Did you get a reverse rotation pump?
Looking good!
Rodney
Last edited by cdrod; April 3rd, 2022 at 06:16 AM.
Those pulley are really shiny, I like the bling factor! The serpentine brackets look heavy, are they steel or aluminum? Does the factory PS pump fit or do you have to use a later model PS pump? Looks like the water pump will turn the opposite direction. Did you get a reverse rotation pump?
Looking good!
Rodney
Hi Rodney, The brackets are fairly light, they are cast aluminum. The power steering pump, I need to pick up the pulley yet and swap the pulley to a standard pump for that year. Have to research that a bit more to be honest. Water pump is a reverse rotation, picked up at my local brick & mortar parts store.
I noticed the exit angle of your tail pipes seems to have changed. Did you have the pipes bent or is it something else?
Exhaust is all loose. I didn't want to tighten it up till it is further along. Having the engine and headers tied in at the front and having the rear bumper so the trumpets could be fit well. The exhaust has probably shifted a bit, most likely around where it loops about the rear axle.
Got into the console to repair the resting pad. Not pretty but solid.
What I started with:
I then trimmed out the broken area. One wall was broken in the bottom LH corner. Added one reinforcement there:
Trimmed up a piece and fit it to the hole and melted in several reinforcement wires:
I took some material, made some "sticks with them. I melted them into the base material, inside and out:
Lastly, trimmed off the ends of the wires. I figured I can use washers to the 0.100" of thickness that was there. I have metal washers shown but I have some thicker plastic ones I think would be better.
When it comes time to install, I'll use my dremel to slot the drilled holes I created. I'll drill a clearance hole in the center for screwdriver access later, the flocked bottom the glove box ties into a dog house feature there.
Glad I tore it down as there will several areas that required repair. Still waiting for parts to show up, hopefully coming soon.
Grilles are ready. After breaking the first Oldsmobile emblem, the second one was delivered yesterday. Kudo's to OPGI for replacing free of charge!!!
The root cause to the breakage was that the studs are not the same size.
Two of the studs are smaller diameter and the PAL nuts fit those well.
The one stud is larger but the PAL nut is sized for the smaller stud. I used one size larger PAL nut for that stud and it fit perfectly.
The smaller PAL nut caused too much torque to the stud causing it to rotate and breaking the casting.
These grilles are going to look great once the front end is put together!
Mike:
The grilles look great and what a fantastic job you did on the console repairs. What type of plastic did you use for the insert and where did you buy the material? Do you have a special tool to install the metal "S" shaped wires or do you just heat them up and push them into the plastic while they're hot? I have some broken areas on my console that could be repaired in a similar way.
Rodney
Mike:
The grilles look great and what a fantastic job you did on the console repairs. What type of plastic did you use for the insert and where did you buy the material? Do you have a special tool to install the metal "S" shaped wires or do you just heat them up and push them into the plastic while they're hot? I have some broken areas on my console that could be repaired in a similar way.
Rodney
Thank You for the Kudo's!
I have some broken AC duct work which is made of ABS plastic.
I used a sharp razor and heated it with a small torch. It goes through plastic like butter.
I cut some long sticks of the material and used a soldering iron and filled similar to TIG welding.
The console is made of the same plastic material.
The plastic welder I got off Amazon, it is a basic unit.
Eastwood sells one too, I hear it has more adjustability.
The wire forms fit inside the gun and the wire heats up like the filament in an incandescent bulb.
You then sink the heated wire into the plastic, let off the trigger and hold it several seconds while it cools.
oldsmike1972 --- Did you install the Vintage Air AC system? Was this an AC car or a non-AC car originally? I have a 72 Cutlass S which was non-AC originally. I added the Vintage Air system. To finish properly, I'm in the process of adding an OEM 6-blade fan, fan shroud, and correct upper and lower radiator supports that would be on a factory AC car. I'm finding that the upper radiator support for the AC car places the top of the radiator about 1.75" forward of the non-AC position, not a big issue. BUT the lower support is a different story -Now I'm trying to figure out how to move the bottom of the radiator 1.75" forward without having to replace the entire (lower) radiator support assembly. Have you run into this issue? If yes, how did you solve it??
Barry Griffin
Florida
My car was a factory AC 350 2bbl car. I went with a factory style clutch fan and the original upper and lower radiator supports. I had to figure out which cooling system came on my car based on the factory assembly manual and I spoke often with Scott Winn, he is a Cutlass encyclopedia, plus I bought everything that I needed used from him. He's a great guy for parts and a wealth of knowledge. I bought a factory replacement radiator from Summit and my AC system is a Classic Auto Air system. They are in Tampa on Idlewild Ave. Great people as well. There are several cooling systems that they used on our cars which I believe had different supports. I would first figure out which cooling system your car came with then go from there. I hope this helps. Mike
Love that plastic welding- great job. I broke my brand new Cutlass Supreme emblem on my 71 grille. After I got another one I didn't use the sheet metal nut, I just pushed on a short piece of vacuum hose. Holds it and you can't see anyway. Great work on your car!!
oldsmike1972 --- Did you install the Vintage Air AC system? Was this an AC car or a non-AC car originally? I have a 72 Cutlass S which was non-AC originally. I added the Vintage Air system. To finish properly, I'm in the process of adding an OEM 6-blade fan, fan shroud, and correct upper and lower radiator supports that would be on a factory AC car. I'm finding that the upper radiator support for the AC car places the top of the radiator about 1.75" forward of the non-AC position, not a big issue. BUT the lower support is a different story -Now I'm trying to figure out how to move the bottom of the radiator 1.75" forward without having to replace the entire (lower) radiator support assembly. Have you run into this issue? If yes, how did you solve it??
Barry Griffin
Florida
Hi Barry, I do plan on installing a Vintage Air system, just haven't had time or the resources to put to it. Once we are moved that situation should resolve itself.The Cutlass had three different water pump lengths. Also has 2, 3 and 4 core radiators, multiple top supports/covers and bottom supports on the core support. You may need to trim off the lower supports and weld them in to the proper placement for a 3-core radiator. Fortunately, I'm moving to a electric system as I'm building a restomod and don't have the hassle of what you are dealing with.
Love that plastic welding- great job. I broke my brand new Cutlass Supreme emblem on my 71 grille. After I got another one I didn't use the sheet metal nut, I just pushed on a short piece of vacuum hose. Holds it and you can't see anyway. Great work on your car!!
March 25th, 2022, 02:31 PM
