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Car guy as a kid. How did I end up a nube as an old guy on the Classic Oldsmobile Forum? Please bear with me as I lend a little background and bring you up to speed.
Always loved Oldsmobiles since my grandpa made me shift his F85 back in the 1960s. Man would I grind those gears trying. He’d yell at me while laughing the whole time. He was having all the fun watching my predicament. It was fast, scary and he was the best. So, I’m attempting to restore just a piece of genuine American automotive history and relive some fond childhood memories of that impressionable time.
Purchased what amounts to a VIN # on wheels. Brought it to an all inclusive resto place. Was told 2 years, $70K in labor plus about as much in parts. After catching my breath from laughing, I dusted off the wrenches and went to it. Disassembled, photographed, labeled and bagged everything until my basement filled. Going on 6 years now and have met some great people who are passionate, proud and borderline obsessed with working on these mighty machines. I’d like to finish the car before I’m too old and feeble to push in the clutch. Here’s where I’m at:
- Frame and ext. metal at welder’s shop.
- Engine and trans at mechanic’s shop.
- Everything else stuffed into my garage (boxed, bagged and labeled).
Would appreciate any advice, comments good and not so good. I’m hooked.
Respectfully,
Krusty
Last edited by KrustyAV8R; November 17th, 2020 at 05:05 AM.
I think we all can remember back to our first experience learning to drive a manual tranny! Missed plenty of gears in my time and was constantly reminded, "if you can't find em, grind em!" I too was hooked on Oldsmobile at the age of 16. My folks let me drive their 65 Olds Dynamic 88. That car was a land yacht! I could fit the entire neighborhood in that car! It was rusted so badly that I painted it damp proof red rustoleum primer with a brush! Looked good in the rain! Kept a can and a brush in the trunk just in case I ran into anything! It had a 425 that hauled the mail. Would start in the dead of winter with a single crank. Loved my Oldsmobiles ever since. Had a good high school buddy who had a 72 Viking Blue Cutlass convertible with I white top and interior. I just loved that car. Never had the funds to come up with one but swore I'd get another Olds. Bought my 70 442 back in 2003 with 56K original miles. Drove it to shows and around town in Denver until 2014 when I decided to pull the radiator because it was overheating. Next thing I know I'm pulling the motor and tranny to freshen it up. Changed jobs, moved and just couldn't find the time to work on it till this year when I retired. Now I'm full bore into the restoration and getting it back together. Enjoy your journey putting your Olds back together. There are so many knowledgable Olds enthusiasts on this site that are happy to assist. I'll be watching your project.
While Ive got your attention. Ever try or know anyone who has tried to repair plastic front inner fenders? Mine were removed rather roughly and suffer from some tear outs around the mounting holes.
Regards,
Krusty
I have not tried to repair inner fenderwells and was hoping to read a reply to your post by someone who has with success. Mine are in pretty good shape. I tore one of the holes along the edge that has the extruded U nut clip and not sure how I will fix it. Since there are several, I’m not worried about securing the inner fenderwell, it’s more cosmetic. I may just leave it without the U clip. Not sure how many of your holes are torn but if you can secure these, I’d probably replace the splash guards ($25/pair) and reuse them. You can buy reproductions but they are a little pricey ($450/pair). You might see if anyone has a used set they are willing to part with. All depends on what your goal is for your restoration.
SO.....As you can see above. Found some nos doors and two real 70 front fenders. Also picked up a one-off front bumper (not shown). Original had typical tow strap grin.
Welder hung doors and is working on gaps ...again. I admire his patience. Once he gets the nose on and creates a dolly, Ill take the rolling donor frame and line it up next to the original frame. I can then get to restoring or replacing suspension, brakes and lines, etc. Thats my plan anyway.
Some degreasing/wire wheel work on linkage before and after pics for ya. Lots more of those but looking at too many gets redundant. All will be shipped out for painting/treatment as required.
Distributor, windshield wiper motor and carb boxing up and sending out for rebuild/restoration this week.
New alternator is back in box and shelved.
A bit of a snag getting at transmission. Still mounted to motor and both have become buried in the back of engine guys warehouse/garage. Once he clears a path will send it out. My fault, you snooze you lose. ; ]
Have the frame put on a frame rack (table) and checked for square. Then start restoring it. Be sure to coat the inside of the rails with something.
Have you decided on the body color yet?
Ya know? Youre right. I hear ya. think I was blocking that possibility out. Good advice man. I will forward your suggestion on checking the frame tomorrow. I recently watched body alignment problems develop on a guys project due to an unchecked bent frame. They had to take everything apart and straighten. Will let you know what I find out.
Going with original paint scheme. Twilight body, blue top and pearl gut.
Have installed aftermarket deck lid, will add rear spoiler along with a W25 hood for fun. Thinking black stripes on hood.
Keeping original trunk lid and the original slick hood. Theyll be painted along with car (twilight) and go into storage.
Trying to repair 70 442 W25 hood nose. (1 of 3). Need reference pictures Trying to repair 70 442 W25 hood nose. (2 of 3). Need reference pictures Trying to repair 70 442 W25 hood nose. (3 of 3). Need reference pictures
Looking for photos showing a good W25 hood with emphasis on nose and how fiberglass attaches to steel here. This ones been poorly repaired and my guy needs reference pics to attempt to restore. Thanks in advance.
- Krusty
Looking good, great color combo too! Could you source a regular steel hood for a donor and graft the front section to yours? Your hood looks like a lot of work but you have some talent moving the project along.
Thanks Buddy!
Sent them to the fabricator. He replied and is requesting a little more detail.
You’re helping me out is really appreciated. Trying to get this car out of welder prison. lol.
His annotations to your pics are in the captions below.
“Kind of in here. That way I can see how far in the second layer of steel is supposed to go.” “Any chance of getting a close up in this area?”
Yes sir...got that and just had steel hood frame removed and blasted...below.
The fabricator is interested in how the fiberglass and steel frame meet at the hood nose. The W25 hood I stupidly bought off a guy 7 years ago has serious probs I’m working through now.
Appreciate the advice!
Sprang motor from Mechanic prison. He said 3 months…turned into 3 years. Nothing accomplished. They destroyed the heat riser pipe and dip stick base while jockeying the engine around in storage. Disappointing. $ Northern Tool engine stand. Seems fine. Motor now wedged inside my ever shrinking garage. Welder grinding along. Glimpse of lower windshield issues and repair. (1 of 3) (2 of 3) (3 of 3) Here now over 8 years…still in welder jail. I’m told he’s ready to “button it up”. I think that means in another year or two…or three…ha ha
So in the meantime I’ve purchased a bunch of stuff all still in boxes I haven’t opened yet. Such as…
- Trans, linkage and shifter back from Kentucky a few months ago.
- Steering box rebuilt
- All parts for Front disc brake conversion
- Alternator
- Fuel lines, assoc. hardware
- Front suspension parts and assoc. hardware
- Gauges RPack restored
- Carb replaced
etc.
Last edited by KrustyAV8R; June 9th, 2022 at 06:23 AM.
Reason: typo
That’s unfortunate about motor and getting other stuff done. Hopefully you can get stuff done before gas is illegal, I know I feel your pain It’s a race against time…..HA
Hang in there Dean! Many of us have 8+ years in this restoration game! My buddies needle me about not getting mine put back together this summer. I’m going to do my best to prove them wrong but in the end, it’s about enjoying the journey.
Thanks Greg,
Project has been, and continues to be an interesting challenge. 3 separate trips to the dyno due to an incorrectly ground crank. The last pull shown there generated around 530 ft lbs at 3200 rpm. These motors were true torque monsters. “Powerful and smooth” would be great.
dc,
I know it, right? Well, more than likely I’ll end up with THREE by the time it’s finished. Here’s a pic of the original and a restored donor off a ‘68 Buick Skylark conv. After a side by side comparison I don’t like the ‘68 frame for this job. Although strait, rust free, powder coated and bolts up correctly, there are manufacturing differences besides the usual odd holes and slots. e.g. Crossmember piece over rear axle area is much narrower and there are frame grooves or gulleys that are not present on the ‘70 frame.
As of this writing, it’s serving as a jig for panel fitment. Will either restore org. frame or acquire a ‘70 donor. Must compare time & $ of each.
Last edited by KrustyAV8R; February 2nd, 2024 at 07:12 AM.
Reason: more info.
November 17th, 2020, 04:56 AM
Requesting help with W25 hood nose repair.
