csouth

Gary,

Here is another stupid question: I didn't notice an ignition box of any kind(MSD or similar), is it just not needed with an LS due to COP? Is it just power to the ECM from the fuse box?

Thanks

garys 68

No separate box needed. The ecu is programmed to control injectors and ignition. As a matter of fact the ecu controls fuel pump, cruise control, fans, AC, alternator, power steering (variable assist) even gauges if you kept the originals....pretty much everything except the horn.

csouth

Thanks. I have a Summit box to post for sale now...lol

garys 68

The stock spark control integrates all the input sensors as well as knock sensors and does a pretty good job. I doubt on anything remotely stock would do as well.
The spark tables are programmable and pretty common to upgrade even with a mail order "performance" tune.

STR-8_CHARGIN

I'm working on a 72 Cutlass with a LQ4 6.0 swap with LS3 heads/intake and 4L60 trans...... The motor is in the car, wire harness has been modified to 4 wire setup that's hard wired to Power, Ground, Fuel Pump, and Accessory and is up and running..... wondering if you have any pointers on the wiring as I've never rewired a whole car by myself..... I bought an American Auto Wire Highway 22 Fuse Panel Kit but I'm not sure were to start and what needs to be tapped into the original wiring on the car(meaning which relays etc have to stay and what can go)

garys 68

Wow, big project for first time, but I'll try.
If you're using electric fans, don't wire through the fuse panel. They can pull over 50 amps, a lot for any circuit. Wire them through relays directly to the alternator (fused).
The LQ alternators can put out 200+ amps, so if there's a larger gauge wire for the feed to the panel, use it.
The aftermarket harnesses are pretty well labeled and laid out. You should be able to easily hook the hot into a fused full time source (could be dome lights). Your keyed ignition can be the old coil wire (just be sure it's hot in run and crank). You'll still need the fuel pump relay and your fuse panel probably has a circuit for that.
Honestly, a lot depends on how you want it wired. I used weatherpack connections under the hood and molex connectors inside so everything can be assembled outside the car, then plugged in.
Are you getting rid of all the cars original wiring?

STR-8_CHARGIN

yea I honestly after looking at everything I feel like this project will be too overwhelming for me, so I will probably end up getting someone who's done it before to either help or do it for me. I currently have the electric fans and fuel pump setup on 2 relay kits that are wired directly to the battery with a toggle switch to turn them on/off and the ignition switch is wired to a push button switch rather than using the keyed ignition switch on the column.....

oggie442

[QUOTE=garys 68;231489]OK, here's where you guys are really going to rip on me. I needed new gauges, liked the 3 gauge layout, but hated the woodgrain.
I'll be using the same overlay material on the center console and door woodgrain pieces.
DSCN0140.jpg
What's the part numbers on the gauges ? This is what I want to do with mine
Thanks

garys 68

Here's the page, although I got a better deal through an ebay seller.
http://www.dolphingauges.com/dolphin_gauges.html
And for indicators, I used 12 V LEDs. But found these afterwards and like them much better:
http://www.snakebite.com.au/logodash...ach-p-494.html

oggie442

Ok cool ! What size were gauges ?

Thanks for the info

garys 68

I think 3 3/8", measure the dash gauge holes, they fit perfectly

oggie442

Ok thanks ! I'm at work can't go measure mine now

garys 68

Sad day here. About 6" of snow last night. The Olds is now tucked in the garage for the winter :-(

TheNewGuy

Nice!

69CutlassAlex

Where did you purchase the PVC panel/sheet and what is its official name? Thanks, Alex

oldcutlass

There are businesses that specialize in plastics. Check your yellow pages in your area. FYI, when PVC is overheated it emits toxic fumes.

69CutlassAlex

Ok contact local businesses and do not inhale. Got it! Thanks for the general concern for my health!

garys 68&72

Just look up plastics in the yellow pages. I've used Regal Plastics here in St Louis for Plexiglass, Lexan, PVC, adhesives, etc.
It's just 1/8" PVC.
Lots more details here:
http://www.pro-touring.com/threads/7...l-build-thread

garys 68&72

Cars came out after long winter sleep. Running great but one thing bothered me from when I re-did the rear brakes a couple years ago. First was the drums didn't match. Then the cheap Chinese shoes I put on were all the same size (no short vs long). Anyway, I was at the parts store and looked at another pair of shoes, yep...one long one short per side, so bought them. Looking at the brake drums I discovered the drivers side dragged a bit through about half the revolution. So Rock Auto came through with a new pair of drums.
Old mismatched drums. Oh yeah, note the drum on the left I tried hammering, heat, etc....wouldn't come off. Took the air hammer around the face, had it off in 5 min.:



New shoes, long and short:



New drums:



And assembled. Kinda nice having important parts like brakes put together correctly.
assembled_zps1e548102.jpg

garys 68&72

Weird week. Over the weekend I was dropping off someone at the airport while driving the Olds. Security outside pulls me over as I'm leaving. I'm having visions of them tearing apart my car searching for a bomb or drugs, etc. The guy just said he wanted to check out my car.
Then on the way into work yesterday some guy pulls up next to me on the highway asking how much for my car. I wasn't really interested in that discussion at 70mph in rush hour, but he offers $10k.
I guess the "atomic orange" paint attracts attention.

oldcutlass

Some peoples kids, huh.

chaosrob

Very impressive Gary. I am local and have sent you a pm.

garys 68&72

So after doing the rear drums I rotated the tires. That resulted in slight vibration at about 80mph and a front end wobble when braking at about 5mph. Guessed bent rim. Didn't feel it on the rear but was more obvious when on the front.
So craigslist found me a pair of 72 Olds wheels with the bolt on centers for $20.
Biggest problem was finding the 05 sunburst orange paint. Ended up ordering off ebay at $29 for a rattle can.
Wheel as I got it:



And after priming and putting a few coats of paint:

jj442

great job... lot of work

garys 68&72

Damn, all those little things I let go initially are coming back to bite me. I think I replaced EVERYTHING in the dash except the headlight switch and wiper switch. Well the rheostat dimmer for the dash gauges is getting flaky. So after $12 at Oreileys, I got a new switch. Now I just got to try to get my feeble mind to remember how the plug goes on, where the pull release button is oriented....Then see if my chubby fingers can reach up in there.

smash72

That's funny I'm using the same thing in my 72 Cutlass also a clone. Hated the contact shelve paper wood grain from way before 72. But I didn't say anything yet. I have it but it's a ways down the road on mine. I am however going with the 455 & the OSI hood. Waiting on my motor (family)can hear my elderly mother now " let your brother play" Well I did he knows what's he's doing just has a had time getting off the bar stool sometimes. Nice build will follow along. Soon as I figure out how to post pics from my phone would be happy to share.
Just tonight had to cut out the batt tray looks like it leaded acid for a while with the PO not taking care of it. Now need some metal, the tray, and the bracket & hardware under it. But still enjoy it just need more hours in the day.

garys 68&72

An Olds purist said to me that no one would believe that's real carbon fiber. My response, no one ever believed the original was real wood.

billmerbach

Gonna say I admire your work I wish the omega had custom in dash gauges available but I guess I can build a similar instrument cluster back cut holes and install them but id love to know how to wire it up

garys 68&72

Headlamp switch replaced. No too difficult to get my hands in there. But the first switch I got at the auto parts store would not engage the push in shaft of the switch.....defective. Back to the store to get a replacement. Note, always check parts before you stand on your head to install it.
Wow, never knew my dash lights were this bright...lol. Guessing the headlight switch was never right.

garys 68&72

OK, live and learn......I noticed the clutch letout point was getting really close to the floor, the reverse gear grinding. Only 10K miles on the clutch, thinking a linkage adjustment issue. Jack up the front of the car, reach in to push the parking brake....then I see it. The cheap floormat had delaminated and was wadding up behind the clutch pedal. Straiten it out, problem solved.
Lesson, check the REALLY simple stuff first. at least I didn't tear the entire linkage apart before I noticed.

Freddy B

Gary, were did you get the cruise control for your column? does it screw into the location of the stock turn lever? This build has given me the push I needed to do this swap on my 71 convertible. I will be referencing this build a lot in the future.

garys 68&72

I bought the lever from Dakota Digital. It does mount with a single screw in the stock location.
It is a ford design however. That means all the but the main on/off controls are NC instead of NO. Some people have wired them with relays in order to get all controls to work. However, I noticed that one of the functions (resume?) goes closed with power from the end push button "set". So I just wired that to the cruise control.
Only the on/of and "set" work, but that's about all I typically use anyway.
There's a thread over at LS1tech about OEM GM cruise control stalks that will be a direct fit, but think it was from an 80s van that was only available through salvage yards.
BTW Dakota Digital does make a square dash mounted unit in either the Ford NC or GM NO design.

garys 68&72

Just a little update. I've been running the 2.73 rear with the 3.42 1st gear T10, which is a good combo. But I use the car about 90% highway driving. So I've been looking for some 2.56 gears to replace the 2.73. The 10% drop in rpm probably wont translate into more than 1mpg increase, but the rpm will result in a little quieter, comfortable drive. Besides, I was running out of projects on the car.
So I picked up a used running 69 chevelle 10 bolt rear with 2.56 gears in it already. It's a direct swap for the 72 10 bolt I'm running now and only cost me $50. I decided to go through it anyway, all new bearings and seals. It's the first rear I've set up, so I figured I would take my time in setup. And I can just swap it on the car over a weekend.
Rear end came apart pretty easy and looked relatively good. Oh, and no making fun of my axle dolly.
DSCN0902_zpshnlkfjxj.jpg


The carrier and gears looked pretty good, but getting off the side bearing was a pain. It took me an hour to figure out tearing off the cage/needle bearings, then cutting part way through the race with a cutoff wheel would allow me to use a bearing separator and 2 jaw puller to get it off easily. I got the 2nf bearing off in about 10 min.


DSCN0903_zpsv5oflao6.jpg

RetroRanger

What kind of rpms were you seeing on the highway w the 273s? I'm thinking a low rear gear might be easier than a 5 speed trans in my application.

garys 68&72

70 mph was about 2400. Should be under 2200 with the new gears.
The 5/6 speed was an option, but a T56 or TKO would require tunnel cutting. And the Richmond 6 speed is no longer available. An F bodyT5 would fit, but they tend to be old and worn out.
With the 2.56 rear, I can use my current 3.42 1st T10 (although I would like a 904 iron case). A Noug Nash/Richmnond 5 speed (3.28 1st, 1:1 5th) would be nice, will fit and can occasionally be found cheap.