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Finally made some decent progress, or at least enough to warrant an update...
-Front brakes completely disassembled
-Rear brakes are replaced
-New shocks all the way around
-Distribution block replaced
Slightly annoyed that's as far as we ended up getting, but due to supply issues (as well as a whiny 3 year old) we did what we could. Ordered a set of calipers, only 1 came in correct and itll be Wednesday before the other gets here. The side that we got the correct caliper in, the backing plate needs replaced (my fault) so I'm currently waiting for those. Had one brake line twist thanks to a stripped nut, so I'll be getting the correct nut and replacing that line when I pick the calipers up. Also ordered new sway bar end links, as there wasn't one on the passengers side.
While working on the rear, we noticed one of the spring rubbers (excuse my NASCAR terminology as I've never worked with coil springs) had fallen out. I'm not really sure where to put it, just know that it came out of the drivers side.
I'm hoping all parts should be here by the weekend, and we can finish putting it all back together. The last thing I'm going to do to the brakes is replace the booster/master before I bleed the entire system..not looking forward to standing on my head.
Side note, as it was brought up before in this thread. The wheels are 14x6 with the press on caps. So while they look good, a set of 15" cragars may soon be ordered.
Last edited by brotherGood; June 1st, 2021 at 02:46 AM.
Do not undercoat it. Look at various Eastwood frame and chassis coatings and paint....steer clear of the urge to put the tar on anything but your driveway.
Eastwood makes a coating for internal & external frame rails. Blow the frame out real good. Pay attention to the area in the front frame horns where the sway bar bolts up. That's a low spot that holds water. I drill a small drain hole there. Inspect the steering box bolts. They can look great on the exposed ends but be paper-thin inside the frame.
Clean out all low laying metal seems...the doors, trunk drop-offs, over the wheel wells in the trunk, next to the rear seat with the interior panels off, front fender dog legs, rockers et al.
Once cleaned and dried out coat it all with zinc-rich primer. Then never wash the car again.
Blow out the trunk lid seam down at the bumper. Blow out the hood seams. Fill it up with zinc or LPS 3 or Fluid Film.
Pull the stainless trim off below the wiper blades to look for hidden rot...hopefully, it's clean and just needs paint.
Make the car safe before pretty.
Attached is a running (long-winded) word doc I keep on hand for someone trying to get a stored car back on the road or put one to sleep.
I'm sure there are a few tips you can use. You are kind of in the back on the road after a hibernation situation.
Well, had a good bit of work then back to a holding pattern.
Tank has been drained (of regular?) And new sending unit installed. I need to double check the hose/line connection before sending fuel through, but its on the "Do not forget" board.
Finally got the backing plates in, and fought forever on getting the rotors on those only to realize the rotors already had bearing races installed, so the ones we were trying to install were the root of the entire issue. Figured that out, got those and the calipers on.
I had ordered a new brake line as I was struggling to find the correct fitting going into the distribution block, only to find out it was a whole mess of not right (originally a drum/drum car). Currently have the correct stuff coming to redo all lines (and add the metering valve or whatever it's called)
Also started work on removing the nasty smell from the interior (headliner)I'm hoping we can salvage it, but if not I live a block away from an upholstery shop..so I'll get a new liner put in.
I set a lofty goal of being driven by August. At this point its pretty much hanging on what the engine shop says..and I've got 2 weeks to go until my stuff is to be worked on.
I was really worried about wiring; however, it appears as if everything is intact. Of course, there is so much material under the dash, in the rear seats, and headliner... that they must have been content to confine their homage to the palatial living conditions... crossed fingers your harness is fine too!
Try American Autowire, full factory finish, connectors on and fit is amazing. It looks NOS., but it is new and not made on a different part of the world!
Quick little update, interior is done aside from a good cleaning. Got the new Grant wheel installed, as well as the dome light and headlight switch replaced.
The brakes are done, got the parking lights fixed and the front end back on the ground for now. Also installed a new underhood insulation pad, and plan on going through and detailing everything closer to the engine install.
Were going to go ahead and get the interior and exterior as clean as possible, then push it out to the edge of the driveway for the 4th of July car show. The show is right up the street, so I still should get some lookers..haha.
Just waiting (im)patiently for the engine and trans to be done, then it's install and enjoy
Been a while since I've updated this, but with the engine situation still somewhat unknown I figured I'd might as well get the off-season list out there.
Interior:
Headliner, belts, visors all need replaced due to the mice. I also need to touch up a spot on the dash, and while I'm at it Ill probably break down and look for a new radio. Once the engine is in, I need to finally check the HVAC system. I also need to get new door/window seals at some point along with a new mirror (with map light)
Exterior:
Not much left on the exterior.. number one priority being new front bumper. I've got a few spots to do some touch up paint work and blending, but it'll get the full treatment once it can get out to my father in law for in and out detailing. I've got the new wheels still in a box, waiting until last minute on tires so they don't get flat spots waiting on an engine.
Other things I still need to do are having the radiator rebuilt, testing the alternator, greasing the suspension and replacing springs. I also need to stop dragging my feet and service the rear end and get new fuel lines in it, as well as paint the cross member, spin the battery tray, and get an exhaust put on.
Beyond that short list, its plates/insurance and then work on getting the small stuff for the shows (trunk mat, proper labeling, etc)
Awesome progress Brian! Just a word of warning... based on your previous mice issues... I would expect to find that the heater core is a mouse house... be prepared... Glad you are going through the whole fuel and braking system!
FYI, my buddy Tim, @69442murph , is a great resource for questions and parts and not too far away for you.
Try some of the guys on here and on OCA and the other sites on fb... might get lucky and find a carrier for that rear... wish I had one for you; all of my extras are open.
Keep up the great work!! I, too, have hit the engine holding pattern... whole car done and nothing to do but wait...
I also meant to tell you about New Hampshire Oil... I have a W30 and they were not undercoated... Make sure it is the last (or nearly last) thing you do... but I highly recommend it. Not only is it protecting the undercarriage, but also it give it a nice uniform look... AND you can still see the overspray. I will try to post some pics... the only drawback: It DOES NOT drip, but everything is coated. Hence, working on something after coating can be messy! I expected the whole garage to be covered in oil... NO DRIPS!!! I was thrilled with the way it came out and love that it will be protected!
Man, some folks are so lucky! How beautiful this one is cleaning up.
My sugggestion is safety related. Pull all the fuses out of the fuse box, clean the terminals and apply a VERY thin application of an Anti-Oxidant like NOALOX with something like a Q-tip. Over time the fuses will become welded (corroded) to the terminals and that makes removal extremely difficult. Also verify the correct fuse is used in each location. Through ignorance or oversight, there is usually a fuse in the wrong place. For example, I found a 30A fuse in a 10A location when I went through my fuse box. Happy Motoring!
Also meant to make this suggestion regarding the foul interior smell you inherited. Try an interior smoke bomb.
I used this brand, but a different fragrance and I was astonished at the effect of this product—and so far, my foul smell has not returned—been 3 months or so now.
Thanks for the motivation. I kinda forget how nice of a find I have until I push it out of the garage to clean around it..ha!
I've been somewhat afraid to get into the heater box because of the mice. There was a massive nest in the glove box (which is why there is a streak of rust coming from the box going down the dash) but in testing the electricals and getting as far up under there as I can I've not seen any damage. The fuses have all been replaced with the correct ones per the FSM, as well as any lights that did not work. The dome light bulb was rusted to the housing (which I accidentally broke trying to get the bulb out) so we went ahead and replaced it.
I've heard of oiling the bottom of the car, and being a California car I strongly doubt this was ever undercoated..but I think its had something done at some point-at least when it was repainted to the Burgundy. I would like to detail everything out though under there and protect it. It won't see salt, rarely rain..but my garage isnt the tightest seal so I know moisture will get in.
Knock on wood, but I don't smell it anymore in the garage. Granted, its not gotten hot, nor has it been closed up. I still need to track down the strongest source of the smell last time I did smell it-the Evap box in the engine compartment. That being said, I've used the smoke bombs a few other times (used to work at a dealership) and not sure how I forgot about them. If the smell is still around once the new headliner/visors are in, I may try that route.
Engine is still in the shop. We are waiting on pistons to arrive, and will be reconditioning the rods/ordering new if necessary. Currently sitting at .040" over, and the block will be decked to match the pistons once they're installed.
Dropped off the radiator and transmission today. The radiator was a replacement I guess (explains why I couldn't see both sets of id numbers)
Ordered a set of coil springs, and am planning on taking the rear out to send up for a rebuild and adding a posi unit. I 'think' the only things I've got left to order (big things that is) would be a front bumper, weather stripping, and get the headliner done. From there, I'll take a day and go through the evap box/heater core area to make sure they're clear of freeloaders. Once its back together, I'll get the paint corrected, throw a single stage ceramic on it and drive the heck out of it.
Transmission and radiator are back. Tomorrow we're going to finish pulling the rear out and send it to @monzaz for rebuild and Posi.
When the Transmission was getting picked up, Dad swung by the engine shop (Tuesday) and the pistons finally came in. Hopefully I should at least hear some sort of update by the end of the year. 😬
Now, to direct my attention to my daily. Paid for a spray in bedliner when I bought the truck and today I moved a cabinet and it tore the bedliner off and the tailgate all to bits. Ziebart is about to get an earfull
Forgot to update, but the rear is done and back in the garage.
Gonna try to get the control arms off this weekend so they can be blasted/powder coated..then I'll rent a bushing tool and replace all bushings with the poly kit from Energy Suspension. I'm still waiting on my fuel lines from ILT as well, but once all that's done I'll get this back in the car and move back up front for greasing/replacing bushings and springs.
Got a bit of an update on the engine, but it still sounds like it's out a ways.
Good update. Nice to see things moving along. Is the rear original to the car? I'm curious about the brake drums. My '69's have both had the original bell style but I see these finned types periodically. I assume they're service replacements that made it onto the car at some point.
Good update. Nice to see things moving along. Is the rear original to the car? I'm curious about the brake drums. My '69's have both had the original bell style but I see these finned types periodically. I assume they're service replacements that made it onto the car at some point.
Granted this speaks directly to1970 production, but it wouldn't be surprising to learn some '69s went out the door with fins.
The good thing is that Resident Expert 70Post is still active on this site and can chime in....
One month later...no change. Between the wife catching the Vid, it being bitter cold, and becoming Worship Director at church..my get up and go has got up and went.
Going to try to get out there next week/weekend and get the control arms off. The more I look at them, the more I think just a good cleaning and they'll be okay. Ill get the bushings swapped out, and need to run the fuel lines (first figure out if the body needs lifted for that?), after that I'll put the rear end back in and go tear the heater box out.
I'm going to call the engine guy Monday. He told me 2 weeks ago he'd go ahead and balance the assembly, but I'm curious how he's going to do that when the crank is on my bench at the house. At this point, if machining is done I'm going to pay him and get my stuff, then take it elsewhere. My biggest struggle with motivation is not having a hard deadline..we did over the summer when he told me 6 weeks and got a ton done.
The other shop I'll take it to quoted 6 weeks if it needed torn down and all machining. I'll still give 6 weeks, as they're going to dyno tune it as well..but it's a deadline I can use as motivation.
I still have quite the list once it's rolling, but I've gotta get it rolling first.
I can only imagine the frustration dealing with the machine shop. Who knows maybe if you threaten to pull your parts he will get motivated to do the work. Good luck.
Steve
Yes frustration with specialty shops, body , machine, etc is something I know. Find a new shop that others have used in the past and had good success with and do it, pull you items from the shop dragging it out. Right now most shops would be grateful to have the work, I don't get it. The only excuse they could use that makes sense is "waiting for parts" . Best of luck and here's hoping everything from here on in is smooth.
Updating this..engine is back from shop 1, waiting to go in to shop 2 for assembly and dyno.
Rear end is in, control arms have been cleaned/painted/poly bushings installed. Tires should be in any day now.
Once the engine goes out for assembly, im going to replace the front springs, grease everything else up front pull the heater box to make sure mice aren't dead in there, order a torque converter, clean/paint the driveshaft..and from there once the engine is back we'll stab it in and I'll send it off for exhaust/fuel lines.
Hoping to have it on the road by Memorial Day..so we shall see.
Feeling it the last couple weeks..put the new wheels and tires on, put the new bumper on last night, and we're tearing the front end apart for new balljoints, springs and bushings in the morning. Tentatively scheduled the car in for fuel lines next Friday just gotta figure out how to get it there.
I have always loved this story and thread. Sorry to hear the tuff times dealing with people shops etc. You must be feeling like a kid knowing ng that he is getting a brand new Schwinn when Christmas comes...
You have a great project. Great history. The day it all comes together it will worth Every step. Good for you!
Last edited by no1oldsfan; March 18th, 2022 at 08:28 PM.
I have always loved this story and thread. Sorry to hear the tuff times dealing with people shops etc. You must be feeling like a kid knowing ng that he is getting a brand new Schwinn when Christmas comes...
You have a great project. Great history. The day it all comes together it will worth Every step. Good for you!
Thanks. I always remembered reading magazine articles as a kid growing up about cars found in barns, storage units, whatever and the restore afterwards. I told my wife as the initial purchase/unburying/etc was going on, that this reminded me of those articles I'd read as a kid. Definitely a far cry from the unloved era Mopar I was coming from (and still have involvement with)
Pushed it out and gave it a bath today..hopefully I'll be pushing it back out in another couple of weeks for the driveline install and it'll finally move under its own power.
Need to get a wheel weight back on (apparently they didn't use enough glue.. lol) and then tear apart the EVAP box to check with mice.
Really looks great. Hard to believe the prior owner just gave up on it and let it sie. You were lucky to get it!
Steve
Yeah, we've all just had moments throughout where we've just kinda shook our head in disbelief. He keeps talking to me about the next muscle car he wants to buy and my responses are either "you don't have to fill the hole in the barn that the Olds left" or "go ahead, and I'll buy it off of you after a few years for pennies on the dollar"
June 1st, 2021, 02:43 AM
