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So I bought my caprice wagon in January. It ran like a slug but a semi healthy slug. Started right up every morning and burned her usually quart of oil per day. Ran good up until two weeks ago when the car all of a sudden lost ALL power. Top speed 45mph when flooring it, that’s how bad it was. So I pulled the motor out and am in the process of dropping in a 350. The 350 is bored .030 over with fresh pistons and rods. Has a melling oil pump, witch came with the oil pickup improperly installed, had to fix that and do it right. Also has a missing oil pan bolt hole that someone filled with weld apparently. So after installing pickup properly, witch was holding onto the pump by hopes and dreams, I did my best to seal the oil pan. Now I’m waiting on my Sanderson shorty headers so I can bolt them on and install my dipstick tube in respect to the headers. Motor was far from perfect. But for what it is I think I did good. 1967 Block, seems to be pretty fresh, #6 heads. If she runs and has no major issues then I will call that a win for $500.
So yes. That’s where I’m at. Once the headers show up I’m going to continue on with my journey. Hopefully this goes well. My very first engine swap. Reloading not on experience, just mechanical inclination and YouTube demonstrations. I’m glad to be here and show my journey with you guys. Feel free to drop some input.
Future Plans - electric fans.
electric water pump
Buying another universal 200r4 and getting it rebuilt with all the goodies, then swap it in.
EFI system of some sort. When I first got the car Up close of how clean she is The identifier on the engine. This engine was delivered to me and was supposed to be a 455. These numbers told me differently. Edelbrock intake The 307 trash coming out They ground the pickup tube connection point so it could fit. Them glued it in with silicone. Instead of interference fitting it like your supposed to. I tapped in them tack welded the new one in place too. Pan had super fine metal shaving in it. Hopefully I can get away with it. In too deep at this point. Whole rotation assembly looks new.
Welcome to CO. That wagon is in pretty good shape for its age.
Ran good up until two weeks ago when the car all of a sudden lost ALL power. Top speed 45mph when flooring it, that’s how bad it was.
When I read that, my first thought was a plugged catalytic converter. When I had one go bad on my '99 Dakota R/T, it barely had enough power to make it up the incline to the dealer's lot to get replaced (under warranty). Hopefully you've confirmed that isn't your problem here.
Good luck on your swap, you've come to the right place for Olds info.
Hey I forgot to put this in. I guess this was just a piece of good luck. The mechanic told me $700 to put the motor in when he thought I was getting a Chevy. When he found out it was an olds motor he went up to $1300 for reasons I still don’t understand.
Had he not of went up on the price this would of been a loss. Because he would have not taken the pan off and found the improperly installed pickup tube, that was on its way to falling out.
Last edited by BigT500W; June 1st, 2022 at 05:48 AM.
With your mechanical skills, it should last you for a long time.
Thankyou. Today I swapped the crank pulley. Now with the older water pump, they line up. Now I have to get a power steering pulley press so I can swap pulleys
Great stuff. I’m a wagon driver, too, but another brand. I love the “soccer mom” stealth mode.
Curious that you say it’s a 1967 block when the Olds 350 was introduced in 1968; prior to that the Olds small block was the 330. The 1968-up blocks have a partial VIN on a pad above the #1 cylinder, and you can see the date in that number sequence.
Great stuff. I’m a wagon driver, too, but another brand. I love the “soccer mom” stealth mode.
Curious that you say it’s a 1967 block when the Olds 350 was introduced in 1968; prior to that the Olds small block was the 330. The 1968-up blocks have a partial VIN on a pad above the #1 cylinder, and you can see the date in that number sequence.
I guess I have my info wrong, need to do more research apparently…
I have never seen an excessively worn factory Olds distributor gear. A few of the name brand name replacement HEI come with grease to coat the gear for break in. So it should be available for whatever distributor you are replacing it with. I assume you aren't running the factory 307 CCC carb and distributor? What number is by the #1 and #8 spark plugs on your Olds 350? That was total BS on that shop, an Olds 350 is a bolt in, unlike a sbc 350. Good thing you pulled the pan, yikes! It is a good idea to do pan gasket and main seals, at least 44 years old and who when they were last done.
When a power steering pump sits flush up with the bracket, vs having a gap, what does that indicate is missing or wrong? I know it is wrong for two reasons, this power steering pump originally didn’t sit flush, and it now doesn’t line up with the water pump pulley. Any pointers will be greatly appreciated.
There are spacers, on top of the timing tab and between the side bolt near the motor mount. Almost all Oldsmobile V8 accessories use them. Without them, belts don't line up properly. What number heads does your 350 have?
Last edited by olds 307 and 403; June 5th, 2022 at 06:12 AM.
That makes it a 1970, the date code pad will confirm. If a factory 4 barrel, it will be close to 10 to 1. Even the 2bbl was around 9 to 1. Unless it was a factory manual, they got the same mild peanut cam used till the mid 80's. Assuming it wasn't rebuilt with the 24cc cast pistons which lower compression a lot. Honestly a mild cam swap and converter swap and dual exhaust will help wake it up more.
That makes it a 1970, the date code pad will confirm. If a factory 4 barrel, it will be close to 10 to 1. Even the 2bbl was around 9 to 1. Unless it was a factory manual, they got the same mild peanut cam used till the mid 80's. Assuming it wasn't rebuilt with the 24cc cast pistons which lower compression a lot. Honestly a mild cam swap and converter swap and dual exhaust will help wake it up more.
It came with an edelbrock intake on it. The pistons are brand new and are not flat… Supposedly it came from a Olds 98 originally.
im worried about this power steering pump. Where exactly are these spacers? Can they be bought? I have another pump assemble that doesn’t have the gap, can I stead them from that?
Between the pump and the shouldered stud that attaches the timing tab. Also the large 7/16" spacer that goes between the bracket and engine block on the driver's side of the block. The spacers aren't available new. What is your other power steering pump set up off? Sounds like you have an 8 to 1 350. It will be a mild improvement over the 307. Being fresh will help, it really depends on the parts used in the rebuild.
Last edited by olds 307 and 403; June 5th, 2022 at 07:31 AM.
Notice how it is cockeyed. Unless you get those spacers in place, it will never line up straight. Once in place with the correct studs and bolts in the right place, everything works.
Notice how it is cockeyed. Unless you get those spacers in place, it will never line up straight. Once in place with the correct studs and bolts in the right place, everything works.
You are definitely right. I went to the junkyard and got a whole power steering pump assembly. Took the spacers and missing bolt and It definitely make it slip in place like it had butter on it.
I wish I could run across a smog pump for an Oldsmobile 307. That way I can run my ac.
Having trouble finding the right dipstick and tube for my olds 350, with certainty. Every one I try to take from the junkyard breaks.
here’s my plan, wanted to run a universal chrome dipstick. Was gonna install it, pour 5qts into my fully dry engine then mark where full is. Will this work?
Having trouble finding the right dipstick and tube for my olds 350, with certainty. Every one I try to take from the junkyard breaks.
here’s my plan, wanted to run a universal chrome dipstick. Was gonna install it, pour 5qts into my fully dry engine then mark where full is. Will this work?
You'll want to get your oil filter full of oil before marking the stick w/ a total of 5 quarts in the engine.
Get the Spectre 5727 chrome dipstick and tube. It requires minor filing on the ribbed portion that goes into the block, a very tight fit. I find all the rest of chrome tubes hit inside and fit loosely. It is very easy to break off a dipstick tube in the motor. The only easy way to remove a tube, is pulling the pan ans tapping from underneath.
This
dipstick here is no good. Falls right into the hole and is loose as a goose. Anyone have a NOS dipstick?
I had the same issue with every other chrome dipstick except the Spectre. Supercars Unlimited and I'm sure others have the tight fitting replacement tubes with matching sticks.
I had the same issue with every other chrome dipstick except the Spectre. Supercars Unlimited and I'm sure others have the tight fitting replacement tubes with matching sticks.
Should of just listened to you in the first place. About to order the Spectre
May 31st, 2022, 09:40 PM
