Need some help with my refresh!
February 3rd, 2014, 09:19 PM
#1
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Memphis, TN
Posts: 77
Need some help with my refresh!
I am getting ready to refresh the engine in my 63 Dynamic 88. The engine runs fine, but the gaskets have seen their better days, so I have bought an engine gasket set to freshen it up. The engine has 113,000 on it and still runs strong with no smoke, so I'm planning to just change the gaskets, cleaning up the engine bay and painting to freshen it up. I don't have a ton of money, so I don't plan to go into the internals, but is there anything that you guys would suggest that I keep an eye out for or that I should definitely change while I have it out so I don't have to go back in again in three months??
Oh, and I have the original drivetrain: 394, 2 barrel (low compression) engine with the slim jim trans. Everything is all original on the car except for one repaint and some big wheels. I have a new fuel pump, radiator, front-end bushings, springs, and shocks. I also plan to rebuild the steering gear box because it is leaking pretty bad too.
Oh, and I have the original drivetrain: 394, 2 barrel (low compression) engine with the slim jim trans. Everything is all original on the car except for one repaint and some big wheels. I have a new fuel pump, radiator, front-end bushings, springs, and shocks. I also plan to rebuild the steering gear box because it is leaking pretty bad too.
Last edited by 1PDQ55; February 3rd, 2014 at 09:24 PM.
February 4th, 2014, 02:06 AM
#2
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Australia
Posts: 499
Replace all of your welsh plugs with new brass ones.
On my 394 in my 59/98, luckily the one I replaced was behind the oil filter. Would have been a different story behind the starter. I'm not sure if there is a plug at the back of the block but if there is, it will be fun to do later, guaranteed!
I have the 4 barrel carb, the tube from the heat choke tube to the choke blew a hole in the bend.
On my 394 in my 59/98, luckily the one I replaced was behind the oil filter. Would have been a different story behind the starter. I'm not sure if there is a plug at the back of the block but if there is, it will be fun to do later, guaranteed!
I have the 4 barrel carb, the tube from the heat choke tube to the choke blew a hole in the bend.
February 4th, 2014, 02:50 AM
#4
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Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 180
Good heads up on the freeze plugs! 
Two things come immediately to mind, while the engine is out:
Replace the timing chain and gears, and check the valve seals; most of them are shot at that age and mileage, the valve seals causing high oil consumption, and the timing chain could cause catastropic engine damage!
Hope this helps!!
Two things come immediately to mind, while the engine is out:
Replace the timing chain and gears, and check the valve seals; most of them are shot at that age and mileage, the valve seals causing high oil consumption, and the timing chain could cause catastropic engine damage!
Hope this helps!!
February 4th, 2014, 03:11 AM
#5
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Australia
Posts: 499
For around $100 dollars I would get a water pump, either reco or other, (made overseas).
I was going to get a new one, however mine will be included in the recoed motor I am getting from the States.
I was going to get a new one, however mine will be included in the recoed motor I am getting from the States.
February 4th, 2014, 08:05 AM
#6
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Memphis, TN
Posts: 77
Thanks guys! I was actually ordering freeze plugs today (but was wondering what the heck a Welsh plug was 
). I was debating on the water pump and timing chain. Is the timing chain easy to replace? I have never built an engine and don't want to screw that up!!
Also, I was thinking about replacing valve seals, but was also thinking about leaving the heads on unless it looked like a gasket was bad. If I replaced the seals, would I still have to run lead additive? Those were the reason for adding it right, they would stick without it???
). I was debating on the water pump and timing chain. Is the timing chain easy to replace? I have never built an engine and don't want to screw that up!!Also, I was thinking about replacing valve seals, but was also thinking about leaving the heads on unless it looked like a gasket was bad. If I replaced the seals, would I still have to run lead additive? Those were the reason for adding it right, they would stick without it???
February 4th, 2014, 09:26 AM
#7
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 7,286
leave the heads on or else you mitaswell your way into cleaning behind the rings, oh hell, new rings, new bearing$$$$$$......
The timing set is pretty easy to do
get the marks lined up right
get another person to verify
then take a photo of it aligned.
Valve seals can be done if you hold the valves up with the piston- stuff some poly rope in there and bring the piston up to squeeze it [gently, by hand]. R&R valve seals. Mitaswell put new springs on for $30 right? Or how much are they?
Is your distributor lube with oil, a teensy lidded receptacle near the top? If not, I'd pull its shaft out and clean and lube the workings. Fresh grease.
The timing set is pretty easy to do
get the marks lined up right
get another person to verify
then take a photo of it aligned.
Valve seals can be done if you hold the valves up with the piston- stuff some poly rope in there and bring the piston up to squeeze it [gently, by hand]. R&R valve seals. Mitaswell put new springs on for $30 right? Or how much are they?
Is your distributor lube with oil, a teensy lidded receptacle near the top? If not, I'd pull its shaft out and clean and lube the workings. Fresh grease.
February 4th, 2014, 12:53 PM
#9
Connoisseur d'Junque
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: The Hudson Valley
Posts: 21,183
Maybe because that's not what they're called.
They're called Welch plugs, after the brothers Ray and Fred Welch, who patented them in 1913.
They were invented in Pontiac, not Cardiff.
- Eric
They're called Welch plugs, after the brothers Ray and Fred Welch, who patented them in 1913.
They were invented in Pontiac, not Cardiff.
- Eric
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