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It drives good the gas gauge is stuck on full which i looked it up and said its probably the sending unit so i ordered one of those, also the valve guide seals need replacing
That is one GREAT car and in pristine condition for its age Crow 42. I am jealous big time. Very nice color combo and looks to be loaded with options. If you ever get tired of her look me up..
By the way, no such thing as a Delta 98. The Ninety Eight line (always spelled out - not numerals in those years) came in various trim levels but it was separate from the Delta 88 line. In 67 you had the Delmont series as the entry level full size Olds, then the Delta 88/Delta Custom series as the main line full size offering, then the top of the line Ninety Eight. (Toronado was positioned above the Ninety Eight but not really marketed as a family vehicle.)
There is a thread here at CO dedicated to 1960-1970 full size cars - the Darksiders. You should check it out. Lots of love there for the non-A body Olds aficionados among us.
Dave
Last edited by 67 D88Custom; May 23rd, 2020 at 03:47 PM.
Reason: spelling error
Torque monster!!! Keep an eye on that rubber hose/filter...never felt comfortable with that set-up on the pressure side of the pump. Some ar OE e.g., Ford but...
Anyway that is an awesome car in great shape, good luck with it!
Beautiful car and somebody did a really nice job on the upholstery. If it were mine I would get rid of the lettered tires. They never came on a 98. I would do with some whitewalls but that is just me and I am an old guy. It is your car so do it the way you like. Congrats.
@Sugar Bear the owner told me he was the second owner and has owned it for 25 years, he said it has 70k original miles on it i drove it home 70 miles no problem at all it was awesome! the top needs replacing in the sense it dosent close all the way theres a one inch gap because he said it shrunk due to always keeping it down in the summer but i got a quote by my house for a new one for 1500$ installed. i paid 9300 for the car does that seem like a good deal?
I think he meant WHAT engine is under the hood, not IS there an engine under the hood as opposed to, say, a living room couch or a set of golf clubs!
The standard engine in the '67 98 was a 425 "Super Rocket" V-8 with 4-bbl carburetor putting out 365 hp. It's the engine at the upper right on this page from the '67 Olds brochure.
No need to apologize. But back in those days, more than one engine was offered in most any car, so people are often interested in the specific engine. For your car, there were only two possibilities. The base engine is the one that's in your car. Optional, as that brochure page shows, was the Starfire Rocket V-8 offering an extra 10 hp.
But things were much different in the 88 lines. Here's the page previous to the one above. The base engine in the Delta 88 was the second one from the left in the top row on this page. It was a low-compression version of the 425 (as indicated by the black air cleaner) with a 2-bbl carb. To its left was the first step up, a high-compression (with red air cleaner) version with 2-bbl carb. Next up the line in terms of availability was the Super Rocket V-8 that was standard in the 98, and then finally was the Starfire V-8. So that's four engine possibilities from the factory for the 1967 Delta 88.
For the Delmont 88, there was one additional possibility. The base engine was a 330 V-8 first introduced in 1964. So you could have gone with that or have as an option in your '67 Delmont any of the four engines available in the Delta. Because both a 330 and a 425 were available in the Delmont, a Delmont with a 425 was marked as such on the outside of the car with "Delmont 425" badges on each side just behind the front wheel opening.
I owned a '67 Delta 88 convertible until I sold it in January of this year. It had the high-compression 2-bbl carb version of the 425.
Here's the full range of engines offered by Oldsmobile in 1967 and which models they were available in.
Nice one, you certainly have something to "Crow" about now. Get ready for lots of positive comments every time you gas up. Something about these 60's full size Olds that breaks the ice for a conversation with strangers.
Here's another little piece of interesting 1967 Oldsmobile history that isn't exactly related to your car, but I'll throw it out there, anyway, because it still relates to '67 full-size cars..
The name "Delmont" was not the original plan. As I understand the story, Olds was originally going to call the car "Delrado 88" in an attempt to capture some of the excitement of the Toronado by have a similar-sounding word that still began with "Del." I have a 1967 Fisher Body Parts manual printed in 1966, apparently before final decisions were made about model names, and the Delmont name is not in it. But here's a couple of pages showing the Delrado. Note the series and style numbers (35639, 35687). Those ultimately were assigned to the Delmont.
Frankly, I always thought that "Delmont" was a little frumpy-souding (makes me think of Lumpy Rutherford on Leave it to Beaver) than the more rocket or action-oriented words that Olds used like Dynamic and Delta. I think it would be fun to own a '67 Oldsmobile Delrado 88.
I’ve had a ‘66 98 convertible for 35 years or so. Literally my father’s Oldsmobile. Mechanically similar to your ‘67, except body lines and trim.
Consider going through brakes and suspension first, making sure it’s safe, then move on to the driveline, electrical and finish with cosmetics. It might be a little less pretty short term, but at least it will be safer. These cars had a (potentially long) life before us. Good to be sure they’re shipshape before sharing with family and friends.
As an example, tires are date coded, make sure yours aren’t 8 or more years old and/or dry rotted. If replacement is warranted, see Diamondback Tires for modern radials with white walls. Cool stuff.
These are great cars, you have years of enjoyment and fun projects ahead.
@jaunty75 hi i seen in a different post about the gas gauge being full you said to try and clean the ground off of the tank underneath i tried that nothing, then when I disconnected in the trunk like you were saying and tried to ground it there instead of going to empty it just starts going up way past full until i clip it back together then it just goes to a little past full again any ideas would be greatly appreciated!! Thank you!
List the options if you get a chance, I see one quite rare option.
The transmission should be a Turbo Hydra-matic 400 (TH400) switch-pitch with a variable vane torque converter. '67 was the last year for it, read up on it as you wish.
Drive it and enjoy it often, it'll make great memories for family and friends.
@jaunty75 hi i seen in a different post about the gas gauge being full you said to try and clean the ground off of the tank underneath i tried that nothing, then when I disconnected in the trunk like you were saying and tried to ground it there instead of going to empty it just starts going up way past full until i clip it back together then it just goes to a little past full again any ideas would be greatly appreciated!! Thank you!
You said you tried to ground "it" there. What is "it"? You pull the connector apart, which separates the wire coming from the front of the car from the wire coming from the sending unit. You ground the wire coming from the front of the car, not the other wire. By grounding this wire, the dash gauge, which is just an ohmmeter, sees zero ohms resistance, and that corresponds to E on the gauge. So when you ground this wire and turn the key ON, the gauge should go to E. Verify that this happens. Then remove the wire from ground, and the gauge should move to F or past it as this corresponds to infinite resistance.
Pay no attention to what the gauge does when the the ignition is off as there is no power to the gauge, and it could come to rest anywhere.
If the gauge does what it's supposed to in this test, then you have verified that the gauge itself and the wiring from it to the rear of the car are working fine. The next step is to check the sending unit ground wire. It should be connected to the body or chassis up under the car perhaps forward of the tank. Make sure that this connection is intact and clean. If you do this and the gauge still doesn't work, then the problem is the sending unit itself, and that requires lowering the tank and removing the sending unit.
You said back up near the top of this thread that you ordered a new sending unit. What did you order? As far as I have ever known, no one makes sending units for these cars. They are not the simple float-on-a-lever arrangement, but rather feature what is essentially a hockey puck with a hole in the middle that slides up and down on a shaft to register the amount of fuel in the tank. This float is contained inside a metal cylinder with small holes in the side to let the fuel in and out slowly. This arrangement acts as a baffle to prevent the gauge needle from swinging back and forth as the fuel sloshes around inside the tank as you drive the car and go over bumps and around corners.
Here's what your sending unit looks like when you remove it from the tank. This is the one out of my '67 Delta 88. There should be a sock filter on the bottom, but that had fallen off of mine when I did this job back in 2009.
Here's what the insides look like when you take it apart.
I've seen NOS units on ebay that will cost you several of your first-born children ($300 to $500--my children were cheap), so I tried to avoid that. With mine, I first tried cleaning and removing any dirt or corrosion and then reinstalling it in the tank. It didn't work. The float would get stuck, and the only thing worst than having to lower a gas tank once is having to do it twice.
While I was doing all this, I came to know that the sending unit for a '72 Delta 88 or Buick LeSabre is a drop-in replacement, and this sending unit is made new. But it is a float-on-a-lever, so there is no baffle. The gas tanks in these cars are not baffled because it wasn't needed. So you will see the fuel gauge needle swing around more than is normal when you drive, but it still indicates the amount of fuel in the tank, and that's a lot better than no fuel gauge at all.
Note that this unit has two pipes, a pickup pipe and a return line. If your car is like mine and doesn't use a return line, you can just cap off the unused line. This is Spectra Premium model FG106A available pretty much anywhere, although you'll likely have to order it if you buy it through a local auto parts store. Rockauto, which is where I bought mine, has them for $50 plus shipping.
One other interesting thing I learned in doing this. The fuel pickup pipe sticks down from the top of the tank, which I think is pretty much universal with gas tanks. It doesn't touch the bottom of the tank but rather ends about 1-inch above the bottom of the tank so there is room for the sock filter. But this means that that last inch of fuel in the bottom of the tank will never be burned by the engine. I did a little math calculating the volume of fuel this implies by using the surface area of the bottom of the tank times the 1-inch height, and it came out to a volume of about 2 gallons. So the 25 gallon tank on these cars has an effective volume of 23 gallons. If you drive the car until it runs out of gas, there will still be two gallons of fuel in thank.
By the way, I've been talking about it enough that I thought I'd post a photo of my '67 Delta 88 convertible. I bought it in 2009 and sold it back in January of this year.
You should be ! Great car, great condition, congratulations and welcome to the site.
Originally Posted by Crow42
It drives good the gas gauge is stuck on full which i looked it up and said its probably the sending unit so i ordered one of those, also the valve guide seals need replacing
Till you resolve the gas gauge issue you may want to fill up every 100 miles, assuming you filled up on the initial excursion. Running out could introduce crud, etc, that's been laying in the tank to the rest of the fuel system.
Poor modern gas quality may have caused valve component issues. Your engine required 100+ octane leaded, so to say it is unhappy with current gas is a huge understatement. I recommend 93 octane at all times + an octane booster with MMT. MMT is a lead substitute.
Originally Posted by Crow42
new to classic cars dont really know all that much so i thought a pic may be better!!
In a perfect world your pic would speak 1000 words, and in this case it still does. The "Super Rocket" nickname only belonged to one engine the 425. It was the creme de la creme of Oldsmobile engines. An enhanced version was used in the Toronado which was their halo car. That says it all.
@jaunty75 HEY jaunty thank you for such a lenghty detailed reply. I ordered a new sending unit off ebay similar to the picture in the bottom of your post.When i tried grounding the wire i traced the wire coming from the gas tank under the car into the trunk and pulled it from the connector in the trunk behind the liscense plate and tried there but i could of been doing something wrong. Tthen i pulled the ground wire under the tank at the front where you said it would be and shined it up with some 3m but that didnt do anything.WOW that picture of your car is sweet that thing is awesome i live in chicago and have had some nice days these last 2 few days it has been so fun driving it around gets a lot of attenion.I filled up the tank not knowing how much gas was in there i put 22 gallons in by your calculations i barley made it to the pump HAHA
May 23rd, 2020, 03:39 PM
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