Just given a 1973 cutlass s
December 22nd, 2011, 05:09 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 34
Just given a 1973 cutlass s
Hi. I was just given a 1973 cutlass s. How do I familiarize or find information and acquaint myself with this cars general history, desirability, stregths, weaknesses etc... For instance, year one said there was a model change during that year and that it isn't desirable. Is there a list of links helpful to new owners like me? Outside of junkyards what are the best sources for parts on this car? How can I find pics and info on the original condition of this car? How do you run vin numbers to see its history other than carfax? Thanks!! Sorry so many questions, I'll try to post a pic it's really neat...
December 22nd, 2011, 05:45 PM
#2
Hi. I was just given a 1973 cutlass s. How do I familiarize or find information and acquaint myself with this cars general history, desirability, stregths, weaknesses etc... For instance, year one said there was a model change during that year and that it isn't desirable. Is there a list of links helpful to new owners like me? Outside of junkyards what are the best sources for parts on this car? How can I find pics and info on the original condition of this car? How do you run vin numbers to see its history other than carfax? Thanks!! Sorry so many questions, I'll try to post a pic it's really neat...
December 22nd, 2011, 05:51 PM
#3
Connoisseur d'Junque
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: The Hudson Valley
Posts: 21,183
Well, you're in the right place, kid, but that's a whole lotta questions, and they're not going to be answered all at once.
For starters, get yourself a copy of the Chassis Service manual and the Fisher Body Manual.
Here's a copy of the CSM for $20.
Here's a copy of the FBM for $15, including shipping.
To answer your next question, yes, 1973 was the first year of a new body style after the wildly popular '68 - '72 GM A-bodies, and yes, most car collectors do not much like them.
I, myself, turned down an excellent low-mileage '74 Malibu when I was 18 in 1980 because I thought it sucked then - Bought a '70 Chevelle instead. Been glad I made that choice ever since.
The general unpopularity of these cars can work to your advantage, though, because parts are cheaper, but overpriced new / reproduction parts may be harder to find.
The best place to find many parts is, of course, the junkyard, because that's always the best place to find parts, provided you've got a good one nearby.
Mechanical parts of most kinds can also be found at your local auto parts store, where you can probably get any non-cosmetic part you need for that car.
Next on the list is this forum, where a vast array of parts can be bought from fellow members.
As far as information, this page has a "Tech" link in the bar along the top, which will lead to a bunch of reasonably reliable information, and there are many other information sources out there as well.
Google is your friend, though perhaps not your most trustworthy one.
As for the VIN, sorry, you're SOL. You can get information about original paint and equipment from the VIN and the cowl tag, but there is no way of running your VIN to find information about original owners, original dealer, a full list of original equipment, etc.
The best you can do is ask the previous owner whom he bought it from, and continue down the line.
Welcome!
- Eric
For starters, get yourself a copy of the Chassis Service manual and the Fisher Body Manual.
Here's a copy of the CSM for $20.
Here's a copy of the FBM for $15, including shipping.
To answer your next question, yes, 1973 was the first year of a new body style after the wildly popular '68 - '72 GM A-bodies, and yes, most car collectors do not much like them.
I, myself, turned down an excellent low-mileage '74 Malibu when I was 18 in 1980 because I thought it sucked then - Bought a '70 Chevelle instead. Been glad I made that choice ever since.
The general unpopularity of these cars can work to your advantage, though, because parts are cheaper, but overpriced new / reproduction parts may be harder to find.
The best place to find many parts is, of course, the junkyard, because that's always the best place to find parts, provided you've got a good one nearby.
Mechanical parts of most kinds can also be found at your local auto parts store, where you can probably get any non-cosmetic part you need for that car.
Next on the list is this forum, where a vast array of parts can be bought from fellow members.
As far as information, this page has a "Tech" link in the bar along the top, which will lead to a bunch of reasonably reliable information, and there are many other information sources out there as well.
Google is your friend, though perhaps not your most trustworthy one.
As for the VIN, sorry, you're SOL. You can get information about original paint and equipment from the VIN and the cowl tag, but there is no way of running your VIN to find information about original owners, original dealer, a full list of original equipment, etc.
The best you can do is ask the previous owner whom he bought it from, and continue down the line.
Welcome!
- Eric
December 22nd, 2011, 05:52 PM
#4
Registered User
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Colton Ca
Posts: 682
The car is a year to young for many. In 1973 many of the pollution standards hurt the car and its performance. The low compression heads to be able to burn unleaded fuel turned the rocket in to a flare. I expect your car will become more desirable in time. What parts do you need ? Depending on the parts many are around.
December 22nd, 2011, 06:05 PM
#5
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Well, LUCKY YOU!
If you don't want the car...... ok I know that was just tasteless. There are lots of folks here with those model years who can help out. You can also get hooked up with the 73-77 Olds Forums as well. http://www.73-77olds.com/forums/index.php
Let's hear the story of how you got this car 'given' to you. Sounds really intriguing. Where are you, we need to come over and test drive it.
73 was the model year that GM actually introduced the new body style. The body design was actually supposed to be introduced in 72, but the 1970 UAW strike affected everything down the line, resulting in the delayed intro. When they first came out, I have to admit I wasn't thriilled with the look. I'd been weaned on Cutlass models starting in 67 - 72 and had grown to love the flow of the older car lines. Now, 38 years later I kind of like the look. One of the things I couldn't understand was the lower flares. The car's wheels would throw crud all over them and flake paint so fast you'd think it had been sandblasted at times.
If you don't want the car...... ok I know that was just tasteless. There are lots of folks here with those model years who can help out. You can also get hooked up with the 73-77 Olds Forums as well. http://www.73-77olds.com/forums/index.php
Let's hear the story of how you got this car 'given' to you. Sounds really intriguing. Where are you, we need to come over and test drive it.
73 was the model year that GM actually introduced the new body style. The body design was actually supposed to be introduced in 72, but the 1970 UAW strike affected everything down the line, resulting in the delayed intro. When they first came out, I have to admit I wasn't thriilled with the look. I'd been weaned on Cutlass models starting in 67 - 72 and had grown to love the flow of the older car lines. Now, 38 years later I kind of like the look. One of the things I couldn't understand was the lower flares. The car's wheels would throw crud all over them and flake paint so fast you'd think it had been sandblasted at times.
December 22nd, 2011, 06:31 PM
#6
I do have to agree that 1972 was really the last "good" year for Oldsmobile for styling and performance (though some will argue an earlier date), but 1973 was bad for all American car manufacturers. Emission standards choked and killed horsepower and safety enhancements uglied up a lot of cars. The problem I think is that the technology was simply not there to maintain decent performance and some sort of fuel economy. (Anyone remember the full size Buick's with the V-6 in the '80's? Pushing was faster)
Design is according to personal taste, so as far as "desirability" goes, what everyone is saying is essentially true. On an auction block a '70 Cutlass S in only "decent" shape will always go for more than a pristine '73 Cutlass S. However, if YOU like the '73 style, it is desirable to you. If YOU like it, that's all that really matters. Speaking for myself, I like the 1965-1972 model years the most, but the '73's have kind of grown on me over time. I always sort of liked the optional swivel bucket seats...
I am curious, what you are wanting to do with it? Complete restore? Get it running and have a decent daily driver? "Stock" with a horsepower bump? A blown gasser? Something crazier?
Design is according to personal taste, so as far as "desirability" goes, what everyone is saying is essentially true. On an auction block a '70 Cutlass S in only "decent" shape will always go for more than a pristine '73 Cutlass S. However, if YOU like the '73 style, it is desirable to you. If YOU like it, that's all that really matters. Speaking for myself, I like the 1965-1972 model years the most, but the '73's have kind of grown on me over time. I always sort of liked the optional swivel bucket seats...
I am curious, what you are wanting to do with it? Complete restore? Get it running and have a decent daily driver? "Stock" with a horsepower bump? A blown gasser? Something crazier?
December 22nd, 2011, 07:07 PM
#9
Relative Desirability
When snooping around for '73's I saw this one. It is a pretty nice specimen for that year and it is NOT dirt cheap.
http://www.countryclassiccars.com/ca...spcars_286.htm
http://www.countryclassiccars.com/ca...spcars_286.htm
December 22nd, 2011, 07:08 PM
#10
December 22nd, 2011, 07:08 PM
#11
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 34
Well, you're in the right place, kid, but that's a whole lotta questions, and they're not going to be answered all at once.
For starters, get yourself a copy of the Chassis Service manual and the Fisher Body Manual.
Here's a copy of the CSM for $20.
Here's a copy of the FBM for $15, including shipping.
To answer your next question, yes, 1973 was the first year of a new body style after the wildly popular '68 - '72 GM A-bodies, and yes, most car collectors do not much like them.
I, myself, turned down an excellent low-mileage '74 Malibu when I was 18 in 1980 because I thought it sucked then - Bought a '70 Chevelle instead. Been glad I made that choice ever since.
The general unpopularity of these cars can work to your advantage, though, because parts are cheaper, but overpriced new / reproduction parts may be harder to find.
The best place to find many parts is, of course, the junkyard, because that's always the best place to find parts, provided you've got a good one nearby.
Mechanical parts of most kinds can also be found at your local auto parts store, where you can probably get any non-cosmetic part you need for that car.
Next on the list is this forum, where a vast array of parts can be bought from fellow members.
As far as information, this page has a "Tech" link in the bar along the top, which will lead to a bunch of reasonably reliable information, and there are many other information sources out there as well.
Google is your friend, though perhaps not your most trustworthy one.
As for the VIN, sorry, you're SOL. You can get information about original paint and equipment from the VIN and the cowl tag, but there is no way of running your VIN to find information about original owners, original dealer, a full list of original equipment, etc.
The best you can do is ask the previous owner whom he bought it from, and continue down the line.
Welcome!
- Eric
For starters, get yourself a copy of the Chassis Service manual and the Fisher Body Manual.
Here's a copy of the CSM for $20.
Here's a copy of the FBM for $15, including shipping.
To answer your next question, yes, 1973 was the first year of a new body style after the wildly popular '68 - '72 GM A-bodies, and yes, most car collectors do not much like them.
I, myself, turned down an excellent low-mileage '74 Malibu when I was 18 in 1980 because I thought it sucked then - Bought a '70 Chevelle instead. Been glad I made that choice ever since.
The general unpopularity of these cars can work to your advantage, though, because parts are cheaper, but overpriced new / reproduction parts may be harder to find.
The best place to find many parts is, of course, the junkyard, because that's always the best place to find parts, provided you've got a good one nearby.
Mechanical parts of most kinds can also be found at your local auto parts store, where you can probably get any non-cosmetic part you need for that car.
Next on the list is this forum, where a vast array of parts can be bought from fellow members.
As far as information, this page has a "Tech" link in the bar along the top, which will lead to a bunch of reasonably reliable information, and there are many other information sources out there as well.
Google is your friend, though perhaps not your most trustworthy one.
As for the VIN, sorry, you're SOL. You can get information about original paint and equipment from the VIN and the cowl tag, but there is no way of running your VIN to find information about original owners, original dealer, a full list of original equipment, etc.
The best you can do is ask the previous owner whom he bought it from, and continue down the line.
Welcome!
- Eric
December 22nd, 2011, 07:11 PM
#12
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 34
The car is a year to young for many. In 1973 many of the pollution standards hurt the car and its performance. The low compression heads to be able to burn unleaded fuel turned the rocket in to a flare. I expect your car will become more desirable in time. What parts do you need ? Depending on the parts many are around.
December 22nd, 2011, 07:13 PM
#13
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 34
The car is a year to young for many. In 1973 many of the pollution standards hurt the car and its performance. The low compression heads to be able to burn unleaded fuel turned the rocket in to a flare. I expect your car will become more desirable in time. What parts do you need ? Depending on the parts many are around.
December 22nd, 2011, 07:19 PM
#14
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 34
Well, LUCKY YOU!
If you don't want the car...... ok I know that was just tasteless. There are lots of folks here with those model years who can help out. You can also get hooked up with the 73-77 Olds Forums as well. http://www.73-77olds.com/forums/index.php
Let's hear the story of how you got this car 'given' to you. Sounds really intriguing. Where are you, we need to come over and test drive it.
73 was the model year that GM actually introduced the new body style. The body design was actually supposed to be introduced in 72, but the 1970 UAW strike affected everything down the line, resulting in the delayed intro. When they first came out, I have to admit I wasn't thriilled with the look. I'd been weaned on Cutlass models starting in 67 - 72 and had grown to love the flow of the older car lines. Now, 38 years later I kind of like the look. One of the things I couldn't understand was the lower flares. The car's wheels would throw crud all over them and flake paint so fast you'd think it had been sandblasted at times.
If you don't want the car...... ok I know that was just tasteless. There are lots of folks here with those model years who can help out. You can also get hooked up with the 73-77 Olds Forums as well. http://www.73-77olds.com/forums/index.php
Let's hear the story of how you got this car 'given' to you. Sounds really intriguing. Where are you, we need to come over and test drive it.
73 was the model year that GM actually introduced the new body style. The body design was actually supposed to be introduced in 72, but the 1970 UAW strike affected everything down the line, resulting in the delayed intro. When they first came out, I have to admit I wasn't thriilled with the look. I'd been weaned on Cutlass models starting in 67 - 72 and had grown to love the flow of the older car lines. Now, 38 years later I kind of like the look. One of the things I couldn't understand was the lower flares. The car's wheels would throw crud all over them and flake paint so fast you'd think it had been sandblasted at times.
December 22nd, 2011, 07:21 PM
#15
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 34
I mentioned the tribute, Otherwise im just going to improve it incrementally over time and give the motor a little tweaking to make it an economic hotrod of sorts? I have only had 2 days to think about it :>)
December 22nd, 2011, 08:30 PM
#17
Connoisseur d'Junque
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: The Hudson Valley
Posts: 21,183
First, sorry for calling you a "kid," Pastor. By your tone, you sounded like one of the teenagers we encourage here from time to time.
You need the manuals to know how to fix the car, otherwise, you're basically in the dark. The Chassis Service Manual covers everything assembled in the Olds plant, which includes almost all of the electrical system, and the Fisher Body Manual covers everything assembled in the Fisher Body plant, which includes almost the entire body, and a number of other parts, such as windows and window regulators.
OH NO!!!! NOT THAT!
Pastor, you have just written a ticket to H-E-double-hockey-sticks for this thread.
You have opened the Pandora's box, stirred up the hornet's nest only recently settled down.
Suffice it to say, there exist a wide range of opinions on this subject, all deeply held.
A first matter of business might be arguing about whether this thread needs to be moved to a special forum developed to quarantine such discussions (of Chev. motors in Oldsmobiles), so as to avoid infecting the remainder of the message board.
I vote that it should remain here in "New Users," but there may be other opinions.
I will say three things to you, and then recuse myself from further discussions of this vehicle's engine:
1. I am of the belief that it is the right of the owner to modify his (her) car as s/he sees fit.
2. I acknowledge that the newer "LS" motors are superior in function to original Olds motors (you do not have an LS motor in your car).
3. I believe, all other things being equal, that it is better to have an original Olds motor in an Oldsmobile, than to have some other sort of motor.
Good luck, and, again, Welcome!
- Eric
Pastor, you have just written a ticket to H-E-double-hockey-sticks for this thread.
You have opened the Pandora's box, stirred up the hornet's nest only recently settled down.
Suffice it to say, there exist a wide range of opinions on this subject, all deeply held.
A first matter of business might be arguing about whether this thread needs to be moved to a special forum developed to quarantine such discussions (of Chev. motors in Oldsmobiles), so as to avoid infecting the remainder of the message board.
I vote that it should remain here in "New Users," but there may be other opinions.
I will say three things to you, and then recuse myself from further discussions of this vehicle's engine:
1. I am of the belief that it is the right of the owner to modify his (her) car as s/he sees fit.
2. I acknowledge that the newer "LS" motors are superior in function to original Olds motors (you do not have an LS motor in your car).
3. I believe, all other things being equal, that it is better to have an original Olds motor in an Oldsmobile, than to have some other sort of motor.
Good luck, and, again, Welcome!
- Eric
December 22nd, 2011, 08:40 PM
#18
I think that most on CO believe that a Chevy engine belongs in a Chevy and an Olds engine belongs in an Olds. I am of the opinion that the only advantage of a 350 Chevy is that parts are very cheap. That's it, no other reason and speaking for myself, I would never entertain the thought of swapping brands. Please read first sentence again.
The second two part is also easy.
Weakly designed? Nope not at all. You would be shocked what that little small block Olds can do if built properly. If you build and maintain it, they will last for a very long time. The only flaw with this engine is that it falls within the emissions pit and has all of that anti-smog crud on it. However, since the car is old, you probably don't have to worry about emissions anyway so the power choking components can be easily dismissed.
Is it worth getting and storing it? OH yeah! Going back to my first comment about what motor should go into what, and you are going to do a restore on it, then absolutely you should take it. If it is indeed the original engine ('matching numbers' is not as important during these model years IMO) then that would be a nice to have because:
a) You can still drive it with the Chevy 350 and keep it on the road. The only thing that destroys a car faster, other than hitting a light pole, is to have them sitting around doing nothing.
b) You can build out the Olds 350 over time and then swap it out with little down time.
Let us know how things are going.
b) You can build out the Olds 350 over time and then swap it out with little down time.
December 22nd, 2011, 08:52 PM
#20
then that would be a nice to have because:
a) You can still drive it with the Chevy 350 and keep it on the road. The only thing that destroys a car faster, other than hitting a light pole, is to have them sitting around doing nothing.
b) You can build out the Olds 350 over time and then swap it out with little down time.
b) You can build out the Olds 350 over time and then swap it out with little down time.
c) When you are done with the Chevy 350, you can sell it to some poor sucker and recoup some of your investment.
December 22nd, 2011, 09:00 PM
#21
Oldsdruid
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Southside Vajenya
Posts: 10,327
Pay no attention to the mudflaps at Year One. They do not sell anything for the 73-77 GM A-body; ergo, to them it is not desirable. The 1973-77 Cutlass sales figures prove them wrong as the Cutlass was the single most popular car in the US back then, especially the 76-77 Supreme.
www.fusick.com is your overall best Oldsmobile supplier and they cover 61-75 Cutlass among other Oldsmobile carlines.
You can also discount the naysayers on here- to them, Oldsmobile never built anything other than a 64-72 Cutlass, and hardcore Oldsmobile people like me find that attitude tiresome. It's not that I don't like Cutli from those years, but Oldsmobile built way too many other successful cars.
The Fisher Body manual covers glass, body sheetmetal, body wiring including power windows/ seat, doors and side windows (which sounds like might come in handy for you). The FB book covers ALL carlines for its year whereas the Oldsmobile Chassis Service Manual will be Oldsmobile-specific. Someone on here had asked about those manuals earlier today. There are a dozen or so on ebay today.
If you have the original Oldsmobile engine available to you, that's a plus. Neither that small-block Chevy engine nor a modern GM LS engine has any business in that car and that's all I will say about it. Hopefully people on here have learned by now not to try to convince me otherwise.
www.fusick.com is your overall best Oldsmobile supplier and they cover 61-75 Cutlass among other Oldsmobile carlines.
You can also discount the naysayers on here- to them, Oldsmobile never built anything other than a 64-72 Cutlass, and hardcore Oldsmobile people like me find that attitude tiresome. It's not that I don't like Cutli from those years, but Oldsmobile built way too many other successful cars.
The Fisher Body manual covers glass, body sheetmetal, body wiring including power windows/ seat, doors and side windows (which sounds like might come in handy for you). The FB book covers ALL carlines for its year whereas the Oldsmobile Chassis Service Manual will be Oldsmobile-specific. Someone on here had asked about those manuals earlier today. There are a dozen or so on ebay today.
If you have the original Oldsmobile engine available to you, that's a plus. Neither that small-block Chevy engine nor a modern GM LS engine has any business in that car and that's all I will say about it. Hopefully people on here have learned by now not to try to convince me otherwise.
December 22nd, 2011, 09:13 PM
#22
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 34
Then I will get the original motor and at least save it. If the chevy motor is suspect in any way I will start building the olds motor out... Either way I will get it. The current motor seems a bit sluggish, I think it sat for 2 years so a tune up may be in order. It would seem like a 350 motor would be able to really make this car fast? This isnt a particularly heavy vehicle is it? I am unsure what to expect in regards to speed and pick up. .
What kind of searches should I do to discover some methods for improving performance with some simple bolt on upgrades...? Is that realistic?
I have always loved oldsmobiles, my first car was an 86 eighty-eight. Loved it.
What kind of searches should I do to discover some methods for improving performance with some simple bolt on upgrades...? Is that realistic?
I have always loved oldsmobiles, my first car was an 86 eighty-eight. Loved it.
December 22nd, 2011, 09:48 PM
#25
The '73 weighed in at around 3800 lbs if I recall and earlier models were around 3600, but I might be mistaken. I am guessing the extra weight was all of the smog gear and additional collision protection so I think that it would make sense that the '73 might be a little heavier than a similarly equipped '72 for instance.
These cars were never speed demons to start with. Even the '73 442 with the 455 motor was less than impressive and a shadow of its former self. You can get some extra punch, but I think that it would involve some major engine work in the existing motor. If you can get the original Olds 350 then you can spec that one out to be a real screamer, that I know from first hand experience.
As far as 'bolt-on' options, I don't think there are many choices out there. Short of headers and dual exhaust (money thrown away if you put the Olds motor back in), and a 4BBL carb (if it doesn't already have one) I don't think that there is much you can really do with the SBC that is in there unless you wanted to get real exotic or tear down the existing SBC and build it up. If you are thinking about that, you might as well build the SBO exactly the way you want it. Even duals and a 4BBL will not gain tons of power for $ spent.
That being said, a lot can be gained with new plugs, wires, timing and carb adjustment, so I would definitely do that before investing a lot of money anywhere.
These cars were never speed demons to start with. Even the '73 442 with the 455 motor was less than impressive and a shadow of its former self. You can get some extra punch, but I think that it would involve some major engine work in the existing motor. If you can get the original Olds 350 then you can spec that one out to be a real screamer, that I know from first hand experience.
As far as 'bolt-on' options, I don't think there are many choices out there. Short of headers and dual exhaust (money thrown away if you put the Olds motor back in), and a 4BBL carb (if it doesn't already have one) I don't think that there is much you can really do with the SBC that is in there unless you wanted to get real exotic or tear down the existing SBC and build it up. If you are thinking about that, you might as well build the SBO exactly the way you want it. Even duals and a 4BBL will not gain tons of power for $ spent.
That being said, a lot can be gained with new plugs, wires, timing and carb adjustment, so I would definitely do that before investing a lot of money anywhere.
December 22nd, 2011, 09:54 PM
#26
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: San Diego
Posts: 230
yes because like i said that car with the 425 ultra high compression motor out of the 65 with only headers made mine move... it would spin the tires all the way down the street no problem and left all my friend chevys in the dust!!! also with some 245/60/15s it handled incredible
December 23rd, 2011, 12:37 PM
#27
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
SCREEECH!!! You mean the one in your car is NOT a 350? Then it's probably grossly underpowered. Even a Chebby 350 should be able to move the car without trying too hard. What exactly do you have breathing life into this car under the hood? You also might want to check and see if the original TH350 was also swapped out. The Olds torque converters are different than Chev, Buick etc. Someone may have done the tranny and put in a wrong converter; I've seen that happen.
December 23rd, 2011, 02:54 PM
#29
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Sounds like you are one pedal pounding Padre! See how it goes; you might even want to run another can through.
Have you done any routine mtce to the car since you got it? The usual stuff like:
* oil/filter change
* coolant test
* air filter
* fuel filter
* check trans fluid and level
* Check/replace spark plugs (you have to know what engine it is to get the right plugs. Thats one of the downfalls of not having the original Olds 350.
* Tire pressure
* Inspect/replace as needed: Brake hoses/rotors/calipers/drums brake pads - front, brake shoes - rear
* Inspect master brake cylinder for proper fluid level and/or any signs of leaking.
* check timing and dwell (again you need to know what engine you have to get the right performance)
* verify all lights (front, rear, incl tag, side, interior) are working? Test hazard light operation
These are all the little things most people can do themselves that will save you a ton of money instead of taking it to a shop. Whatever you are comfortable with - go ahead. If you're not, or aren't sure? Ask, or take it in. Maybe someone of your parish is a mechanic that can help you out?
See how it goes; you might even want to run another can through. Have you done any routine mtce to the car since you got it? The usual stuff like:
* oil/filter change
* coolant test
* air filter
* fuel filter
* check trans fluid and level
* Check/replace spark plugs (you have to know what engine it is to get the right plugs. Thats one of the downfalls of not having the original Olds 350.
* Tire pressure
* Inspect/replace as needed: Brake hoses/rotors/calipers/drums brake pads - front, brake shoes - rear
* Inspect master brake cylinder for proper fluid level and/or any signs of leaking.
* check timing and dwell (again you need to know what engine you have to get the right performance)
* verify all lights (front, rear, incl tag, side, interior) are working? Test hazard light operation
These are all the little things most people can do themselves that will save you a ton of money instead of taking it to a shop. Whatever you are comfortable with - go ahead. If you're not, or aren't sure? Ask, or take it in. Maybe someone of your parish is a mechanic that can help you out?
December 23rd, 2011, 07:41 PM
#30
Official Tire Kicker
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Sasebo, Japan.
Posts: 576
Welcome to Classic Oldsmobile Pastor! Looks like you have a nice vehicle there! As stated I would just do the minor inexpensive maint. on the Chevy, get the Olds engine and do what you want with it to get the amount of power you want and then make the swap. Minimum down time and you get a great running vehicle. Can't beat that. That's an interesting story on how you got the car, I think your idea about the dent is GREAT.
December 24th, 2011, 06:43 AM
#31
My 73HO
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Zooo Jersey
Posts: 276
The 73's triangle side windows had trim around them. The cars with vinyl roofs had stainless trim and the cars without had a plastic trim with a chrome like finish. Both used the same corner trim peice to hide the seams
From page 19 of the Fusicks catelog:
1973-77 Cutlass-Supreme-442-Hurst Olds Opera Window Moldings
New Rear Quarter Opera Window Moldings now available for all 1973-
77 Cutlass models. Chromed plastic molding applies to cars with or without
Landau Top. You will need to re-use your small metal corner moldings.
Two different moldings available for both body styles.
New Rear Quarter Opera Window Moldings now available for all 1973-
77 Cutlass models. Chromed plastic molding applies to cars with or without
Landau Top. You will need to re-use your small metal corner moldings.
Two different moldings available for both body styles.
QWM737
Opera Window Moldings
1973-77 Cutlass S-442 169.00 pr.
1973-77 Cutlass S-442 169.00 pr.
December 24th, 2011, 06:51 AM
#32
http://www.dailymotion.com/video/xe9...uto#rel-page-3
I like the 73's Can come with a 455 so you can make it what you want . You dont see many at show's
I like the 73's Can come with a 455 so you can make it what you want . You dont see many at show's
December 24th, 2011, 06:15 PM
#33
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 34
This info is very helpful. Do you think its possible to find the rear triangle window trim at a salvage yard? Or is it a piece that would most likely get damaged?
secondly, What is the best way to go about repairing weather stripping? I'm not ultra handy and I was told it is difficult to do. I am refering to weather stripping the passenger doors.
third... What is the piece of trim called that goes around the drivers side mirror adjust and is it available online?
secondly, What is the best way to go about repairing weather stripping? I'm not ultra handy and I was told it is difficult to do. I am refering to weather stripping the passenger doors.
third... What is the piece of trim called that goes around the drivers side mirror adjust and is it available online?
December 24th, 2011, 07:14 PM
#36
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Do you think its possible to find the rear triangle window trim at a salvage yard? Or is it a piece that would most likely get damaged?
secondly, What is the best way to go about repairing weather stripping? I'm not ultra handy and I was told it is difficult to do. I am refering to weather stripping the passenger doors.
third... What is the piece of trim called that goes around the drivers side mirror adjust and is it available online?
secondly, What is the best way to go about repairing weather stripping? I'm not ultra handy and I was told it is difficult to do. I am refering to weather stripping the passenger doors.
third... What is the piece of trim called that goes around the drivers side mirror adjust and is it available online?
Weather stripping on the doors? It's held in with push clips imbedded in the stripping itself. You will have to undo about 3 screws at the top ends of each weather seal and then just start popping it off.
Drivers side mirror trim? Are you talking about the inside of the door or outside? On the inside, it's called an escutcheon plate or trim bezel (made out of pot metal). looks like this?
If you mean the one under the mirror on the outside, it's called a mirror base gasket (made out of plastic)
December 24th, 2011, 07:20 PM
#37
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 34
Sorry for the ambiguity.. The interior trim piece. The picture is what I am looking for. Can that come off other cars? Does a mail order place sell it? The interior mirror escutcheon trim piece for the mirror adjustment **** is how I should have described it.
December 24th, 2011, 07:56 PM
#39
Connoisseur d'Junque
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: The Hudson Valley
Posts: 21,183
The Parts Manual is a good place to start, if your're patient.
It'll give you a part number, and let you figure out which other Olds models it was installed in. You can search the part number on line to find other places it's available.
- Eric
It'll give you a part number, and let you figure out which other Olds models it was installed in. You can search the part number on line to find other places it's available.
- Eric
December 24th, 2011, 08:03 PM
#40
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Use Keyword: INSIDE DOOR REMOTE MIRROR ESCUTCHEON
