Rust
#1
Rust
I am a newbie and this is my first post. Just wanted to say greetings to everyone
And looking forward to rebuilding my 1968 f85. I bought the car last month and
It needs almost everything. Body is full of rust and think frame needs work, so I am glad I found and was accepted into classic. Never rebuilt a car before(bucket list) and hope their are some professional and patient olds builders out there so
I can pick your intellect
Thanks for listening. And always looking for suggestions
And looking forward to rebuilding my 1968 f85. I bought the car last month and
It needs almost everything. Body is full of rust and think frame needs work, so I am glad I found and was accepted into classic. Never rebuilt a car before(bucket list) and hope their are some professional and patient olds builders out there so
I can pick your intellect
Thanks for listening. And always looking for suggestions
#4
Sometimes rusty rotted cars are best left alone. I am all for restorations but will the end result be worth it after all the $ spent.? Just something to think about before beginning. If you are committed then go for it. Post pictures when you can.
#5
+1. Bad rust (unless it's a very rare car, or has sentimental value) means do what you want and drive it like you stole it.
The amount of work, time and money needed to reconstruct a rustbucket can never be recovered. If you want a nice car, the only way to go is to start with a nice car.
- Eric
The amount of work, time and money needed to reconstruct a rustbucket can never be recovered. If you want a nice car, the only way to go is to start with a nice car.
- Eric
#6
exactly... the donor metal has to come from either reproduction places [commonly Chinese parts and/or stuff that needs a LOT of work to fit and function]... or a less rusty car... in which case start with the less-rusty car.
'68 H/O convertible- worth saving.
'68 F-85, not so much.
A lot depends on what you can do yourself. If you have the space and time, and a welder and the ability for form sheetmetal, and low [non-concours] standards, you can resurrect anything and be happy with the results.
I have seen a '69 442 convert rustbucket brought back from basically the firewall piece alone. It can be done.
Is the FRAME ok, because if not, those are not cheap anymore.
'68 H/O convertible- worth saving.
'68 F-85, not so much.
A lot depends on what you can do yourself. If you have the space and time, and a welder and the ability for form sheetmetal, and low [non-concours] standards, you can resurrect anything and be happy with the results.
I have seen a '69 442 convert rustbucket brought back from basically the firewall piece alone. It can be done.
Is the FRAME ok, because if not, those are not cheap anymore.
#7
Welcome to CO! I agree about the rust, it can make your project very expensive to fix one way or another. Money wise if someone else does the welding or time wise if you're doing it yourself. Post some pics of your project so we can get a better idea of what you have ahead of you. Either way we're here to help.
#8
If it is rusted as bad as you say(think) why not use it as a donor parts car and find something else with a solid no rust body and frame. If it seems bad now it will probably be worse once you get inside it..... Rust never sleeps....Tedd
#9
I kinda feel like this would be cheating , but I was looking at the work that Detroit speed does with chassis fully dressed ,ready for a body. Is this an option I should consider, little
more information about 68. It's a 1968 olds post coupe, built in Canada with the 350 rocket.
I have some pictures but not sure how to send then from my album
more information about 68. It's a 1968 olds post coupe, built in Canada with the 350 rocket.
I have some pictures but not sure how to send then from my album
#10
As mentioned above, are you wanting to do the work yourself or pay someone to do it? I enjoy tinkering, and most days would rather do that after work then watch T.V. With that thought in mind whatever I do is for recreation and doesn't count as a cost. If your in that place then have fun and if somewhere down the road you decide its a parts car after all your not out much. Post cars are cool and not as common as the hardtops these days. But evaluate what you want to do and what your resources of time and money are. What's you location? If you need something like a frame you might find a member here with an extra one. You can patch sheetmetal but your ability to steer and brake hard in an emergency may be compromised if the frame is weak.
Do you need help posting pictures here? If so let us know. You'll be able to get better advice is we can see what your working with.
John
Do you need help posting pictures here? If so let us know. You'll be able to get better advice is we can see what your working with.
John
#11
Here's a thread that describes a couple ways to post pictures in your thread.
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...picked-up.html
John
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...picked-up.html
John
#12
1968 olds post. Trying to post pictures.
Image jpg. Not the best pictures. Just finished building a 2000 sq.ft. Shop.
Actually , still a lot of work to do but this car came along half way through the building of the shop. Send better pictures soon so you guys can evaluate.
Actually , still a lot of work to do but this car came along half way through the building of the shop. Send better pictures soon so you guys can evaluate.
#13
That's pretty wild how you can get your vehicles up on the ceiling of your shop. Sure keeps the floor space plenty clear!
From what I can see of your car, I'm not sure that is a project worth tackling. Looks like it has significant rot and you need to worry about what you can't see. Likely lots of hidden rust/rot too. You would have so much money in rust repair that it likely isn't worth repairing. If it were me and if you really like that year and make of car, I would find a much better example and use the one you have for parts.
From what I can see of your car, I'm not sure that is a project worth tackling. Looks like it has significant rot and you need to worry about what you can't see. Likely lots of hidden rust/rot too. You would have so much money in rust repair that it likely isn't worth repairing. If it were me and if you really like that year and make of car, I would find a much better example and use the one you have for parts.
#14
Not sure what I did to post upside down. Going to take some better pictures soon and hopefully fix the problem. All the trim and bumpers are in great shape , but the body is bad . She sat in the bush in sand for 25 yrs . Floors are rotten and frame looks shot by the rear wheels. Can imagine what she looks like behind some of the sheet metal.
#15
If the floors are gone and the frame is bad in addition to what I can see, then this one is strictly a parts car. That's too bad but we can't save all of them especially when they get this bad and they are not rare.
#16
Guess the first thing to do is to tear it down and see what's still good. Any ideas where I could start looking for another f85 such as web sites or anything. I have yet to see one where I live going down the road.
#17
#19
Ted
#20
I would post a Wanted Ad on this site and keep an eye out on Ebay (but be careful) and maybe Auto Trader Classics. OCA would be another place to look especially if you belong and have access to the Journey With Olds publication that contains a classified section. It might take a little time but they are out there. Or, open up your options and look for a hardtop car. A lot of the parts you have can be used on the other body styles.
Brian
Brian
#21
I hate to say it, but you won't be able to bring that rot box back to life for under 6 grand and 6 months of your life. You could buy a really nice f-85 to start with for that price.
Sandblasting, and painting frame....1000
If frame is bad, add 500-1000 for a different frame.
All new bolts, bushings, and control arms, and lines for chassis. 1500
Rear end rebuild 1000
Wheels and tires 1000
Shocks springs, brakes. 500
Ok, so after 5-6 grand and a few months, you will have a chassis.
Now you will need to address that raggedy body, for round 2.
I personally enjoy the challenge of bringing cars like this back, and I'm crazy enough to do it.....BUT keep in mind they'll each sit here for 7 years before I'm done picking at them. AND I don't bother trying to bring them back to factory specs. I just Put humpty dumptys back together and go beat the snot of them. Fun is the only return on your investment that you will receive.
Sandblasting, and painting frame....1000
If frame is bad, add 500-1000 for a different frame.
All new bolts, bushings, and control arms, and lines for chassis. 1500
Rear end rebuild 1000
Wheels and tires 1000
Shocks springs, brakes. 500
Ok, so after 5-6 grand and a few months, you will have a chassis.
Now you will need to address that raggedy body, for round 2.
I personally enjoy the challenge of bringing cars like this back, and I'm crazy enough to do it.....BUT keep in mind they'll each sit here for 7 years before I'm done picking at them. AND I don't bother trying to bring them back to factory specs. I just Put humpty dumptys back together and go beat the snot of them. Fun is the only return on your investment that you will receive.
#22
I think what I am looking for is the challenge. But I also want to be smart about it. I gave myself 6 yrs just because that's when she turns 50. Thanks foe the info guys. Going to take some more pictures and send them too you . It's going to be mid winter probably before I dig into her. Have to run 280' of hydro and insulate shop first. During that time I will be accumulating information and a game plan for this part of my bucket list. Appreciate the help and will be sending some pictures
#24
You've got one with that!
As others have said, anything is possible, but whether it's a good idea is another question entirely.
If you plan to enjoy the process, then you've got plenty of process to go around with this one.
If you have any inkling of not losing a whole lot of money, then this is NOT the car for you.
If you are not specifically committed to F-85 Post coupes, there are a lot of much better candidates out there for full restorations, that can be had for a lot less money than it will cost (never mind the labor - just the parts / materials) to get this one into slightly acceptable condition.
Good luck either way, though - if you get that Zen thing going from just slowly working with metal then you may be the right guy for this car!
- Eric
As others have said, anything is possible, but whether it's a good idea is another question entirely.
If you plan to enjoy the process, then you've got plenty of process to go around with this one.
If you have any inkling of not losing a whole lot of money, then this is NOT the car for you.
If you are not specifically committed to F-85 Post coupes, there are a lot of much better candidates out there for full restorations, that can be had for a lot less money than it will cost (never mind the labor - just the parts / materials) to get this one into slightly acceptable condition.
Good luck either way, though - if you get that Zen thing going from just slowly working with metal then you may be the right guy for this car!
- Eric
#26
Now that you got it back up on the ceiling, I can see more of the lower sections. Looks like everything down low is gone so you are looking at quarters, wheelhouses, rockers, doors, fenders and you already said the floors were bad and likely the frame too. I think that leaves you with a roof to start with. Honestly, there is no challenge in trying to save this one but only a very expensive and frustrating project that would cost you several times more than what the car could ever be worth. Find a better car and you'll be glad you did. Maybe this one can live on with a few good parts that can be salvaged.
Brian
Brian
#27
I hate to agree with everyone else but this car is going to drain $20K of your money and countless hours of your time and it's going to be worth $10k when you're done. I had seven years into mine and it wasn't half as bad as yours (and mine was BAD).
It looks even worse right side up (Nice garage BTW)
It looks even worse right side up (Nice garage BTW)
Last edited by allyolds68; October 23rd, 2012 at 04:53 AM.
#28
+1 to these guys, who've said it well.
It's not much more than scrap, depending in what good parts may be on it.
If you can get away with driving it in that condition where you live, then drive it till the frame breaks and have fun with it.
- Eric
It's not much more than scrap, depending in what good parts may be on it.
If you can get away with driving it in that condition where you live, then drive it till the frame breaks and have fun with it.
- Eric
#29
Rust 1968
Hate the thought of just tearing her apart. 20,000 is a lot of money but stretched over 6yrs, little easier to swallow. I know everyone thinks its junk and
Just a donor car, but I believe anything can be done, with money!!!.
I have a lot of local guys that have body shops and auto shops. See what happens when I pull the body and get a good look at the frame
Just a donor car, but I believe anything can be done, with money!!!.
I have a lot of local guys that have body shops and auto shops. See what happens when I pull the body and get a good look at the frame
#30
Rust68
Not trying to give thr impression that money is no object, it is . This car has a little sentimental reasons why I am having a hard time with using it as a donor. I completely understand where you guys are coming from. Thanks again for your input. It kinda puts everything a little clearer upon decisions.
#31
I would listen to the advice others are giving. You are going to need to buy a complete other car just to fix that one. It really should be the other way around. Buy another complete car you like and then use parts from the rust bucket as required..
I also think that 20k is a conservative estimate for the restoration. IMO it would be more.
I respect that you want a challenge. I also would love to do a ground up resto one day.
I also think that 20k is a conservative estimate for the restoration. IMO it would be more.
I respect that you want a challenge. I also would love to do a ground up resto one day.
#32
#33
[QUOTE=My1968oldscoupe;467907]Hate the thought of just tearing her apart. 20,000 is a lot of money but stretched over 6yrs, little easier to swallow.
=============
Spending $20k/6yrs is $278 a month. That's a pretty darn nice newer car.
LOSING $10k... over 6 yrs, is still losing 10 large.
Is there an emotional attachment to this particular heap?
There are other candidates around that need $ thrown at them. There are F85's in good shape, or perhaps 442's that will at least have buyers waiting when done, due to the pedigree [344... title].
I know everyone thinks its junk and Just a donor car, but I believe anything can be done, with money!!!.
================
Yes, of course. The more you can do yourself [welding], and the lower your standards [weld a patch, seal it, call it good], the lower your $ costs will be. For example this summer I gave up on saving my similarly rusted 1985 442, just painted black over the lower 10" of rust so it doesn't look as bad from 100 ft away, sealed most of the upper rain holes so the console does not fill with water, and just drive it. From the inside, it looks fine.
I have a lot of local guys that have body shops and auto shops. See what happens when I pull the body and get a good look at the frame...
==============
Sure, do that. Not just the frame, but examine all those lower body parts. Body supports, floor supports, rocker panels. Here's a $500 floor kit:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1964-1965-19...89a249&vxp=mtr
Plus the $350 trunk floor kit
http://www.ebay.com/itm/TRUNK-FLOOR-...869d68&vxp=mtr
Plus the quarters, trunk drops, rear inner wheel house, and all the other stuff that you can't see yet. Body mount bolts that break off or spin the nut...
These parts "can" all be replaced, but the parts are not cheap, they don't ship for free, and the body shop certainly is not going to do ANYTHING for free or cheap.
It's just an F85 post car. I feel real bad that someone rusted it to death, but, it's still an F85. PS some of the items like exterior emblems are harder to find than 442 pieces. Frankly, if one were to fix it, the only chance of getting a good price would be to make a big block manual trans H/O "tribute" out of it.
=============
Spending $20k/6yrs is $278 a month. That's a pretty darn nice newer car.
LOSING $10k... over 6 yrs, is still losing 10 large.
Is there an emotional attachment to this particular heap?
There are other candidates around that need $ thrown at them. There are F85's in good shape, or perhaps 442's that will at least have buyers waiting when done, due to the pedigree [344... title].
I know everyone thinks its junk and Just a donor car, but I believe anything can be done, with money!!!.
================
Yes, of course. The more you can do yourself [welding], and the lower your standards [weld a patch, seal it, call it good], the lower your $ costs will be. For example this summer I gave up on saving my similarly rusted 1985 442, just painted black over the lower 10" of rust so it doesn't look as bad from 100 ft away, sealed most of the upper rain holes so the console does not fill with water, and just drive it. From the inside, it looks fine.
I have a lot of local guys that have body shops and auto shops. See what happens when I pull the body and get a good look at the frame...
==============
Sure, do that. Not just the frame, but examine all those lower body parts. Body supports, floor supports, rocker panels. Here's a $500 floor kit:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1964-1965-19...89a249&vxp=mtr
Plus the $350 trunk floor kit
http://www.ebay.com/itm/TRUNK-FLOOR-...869d68&vxp=mtr
Plus the quarters, trunk drops, rear inner wheel house, and all the other stuff that you can't see yet. Body mount bolts that break off or spin the nut...
These parts "can" all be replaced, but the parts are not cheap, they don't ship for free, and the body shop certainly is not going to do ANYTHING for free or cheap.
It's just an F85 post car. I feel real bad that someone rusted it to death, but, it's still an F85. PS some of the items like exterior emblems are harder to find than 442 pieces. Frankly, if one were to fix it, the only chance of getting a good price would be to make a big block manual trans H/O "tribute" out of it.
#35
You should see some of the cars I have dove into!
Every car can be fixed, and if you are willing to spend a ton of cash(and time),
go for it!
I am into a rust bucket now, but I am determined to save her, well knowing it could cost, and as others have mentioned, a fortune.
More pics of your shop! All I see is an upside down car.....
Ted
Every car can be fixed, and if you are willing to spend a ton of cash(and time),
go for it!
I am into a rust bucket now, but I am determined to save her, well knowing it could cost, and as others have mentioned, a fortune.
More pics of your shop! All I see is an upside down car.....
Ted
#39
+1. Bad rust (unless it's a very rare car, or has sentimental value) means do what you want and drive it like you stole it.
The amount of work, time and money needed to reconstruct a rustbucket can never be recovered. If you want a nice car, the only way to go is to start with a nice car.
- Eric
The amount of work, time and money needed to reconstruct a rustbucket can never be recovered. If you want a nice car, the only way to go is to start with a nice car.
- Eric
#40