Ignition Tumbler Removal 71
#1
Ignition Tumbler Removal 71
Does anyone know how to remove the ignition tumbler from the column? I didn't gather much from the assembly manual.
Any help would be greatly appreciated
Thank you
Any help would be greatly appreciated
Thank you
#3
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
The info on tearing down the column is in the CSM, not the Assembly manual.
http://wildaboutcarsonline.com/membe...Section_9E.pdf
http://wildaboutcarsonline.com/membe...Section_9E.pdf
#4
The tumblers are not easily removable from the cylinder. I'm sure it could be done, but you'd have to uncrimp things not designed to be uncrimped, at the very least.
If you mean removing the cylinder from the column, then it's easy:
- Remove steering wheel,
- Remove steering lock plate (easier with a $14 tool, but can be done with an awl and a couple of small screwdrivers),
- Remove signal light lever,
- Remove signal light switch,
- Insert standard screwdriver into release slot, press, and pull out cylinder.
Locating the release slot is about a thousand times easier if you've got a spare cylinder lying around, so you can see where the retaining tang is and how it's shaped.
- Eric
#5
I haven't even removed the steering wheel I'm doing my homework because this is one piece I have no experience on
#6
....If you mean removing the cylinder from the column, then it's easy:
- Remove steering wheel,
- Remove steering lock plate (easier with a $14 tool, but can be done with an awl and a couple of small screwdrivers),
- Remove signal light lever,
- Remove signal light switch,
- Insert standard screwdriver into release slot, press, and pull out cylinder.
Now I'll put the can of worms on the table. Fakser, do you have a tilt column? If so, is the tilt part still tight? Those things have a habit of getting loose. It's a simple fix and when you're down to the cylinder lock you're halfway there.
#7
#8
#9
Thanks guys I appreciate the info Im going to work on this one Monday I'm out of town with the wife but great info. Is that tool something that can be a local purchase or something that needs to be bought online?
It's not a tilt column, I'll take pictures while I do this for the next guy with this question.
It's not a tilt column, I'll take pictures while I do this for the next guy with this question.
#10
You should be able to find the tools at any auto parts store. You'll need a small 2 bolt puller for the steering wheel and the lock plate tool. I have a set from Harbor Freight with both because the good lock plate tool I had was lent out and didn't find it's way back. It isn't the greatest quality stuff, but it will get the job done.
http://www.harborfreight.com/steerin...set-42031.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/steerin...set-42031.html
#11
Thanks guys I appreciate the info Im going to work on this one Monday I'm out of town with the wife but great info. Is that tool something that can be a local purchase or something that needs to be bought online?
It's not a tilt column, I'll take pictures while I do this for the next guy with this question.
It's not a tilt column, I'll take pictures while I do this for the next guy with this question.
I need to fix my switch.
When i turn the ignition key to START. It doesnt want to spring back into RUN position. I guess a spring snapped or is missing....
anyone seen this before??
#12
I've had a lot of GM cars over the years and never encountered a car with the lock / column / rod mechanism tight or binding.
You may need a new switch.
- Eric
#13
So the tumbler/switch is one unit that i just replace as a whole, right?
#14
The cylinder (which is the part that you re-key) is what you put the key into.
The switch (which he shouldn't have touched) is at the bottom of the column, on the top surface.
If the PO messed with the cylinder, then maybe he just put something in wrong and it will loosen up when you take it out and play with it.
- Eric
The switch (which he shouldn't have touched) is at the bottom of the column, on the top surface.
If the PO messed with the cylinder, then maybe he just put something in wrong and it will loosen up when you take it out and play with it.
- Eric
#15
I've seen the linkage lock up on a tilt column. There's a piece in the upper housing with gear teeth that the cylinder gear engages. The bottom end has an elongated loop where it hooks to the link in the lower housing to allow the linkage to flex when the column is tilted. It's a pot metal piece that breaks and binds up the whole mess. I changed several back in the eighties on my cars and for a few coworkers. Once I did one in the company parking lot because the car was going no where without a tow truck.
This is only a problem with tilt columns. My theory is the part gets banged when folks pull the tilt lever and allow the wheel to snap up. Check in the first picture for the part on the blue shop towel. If you ever get into a tilt column that far, go a step farther. There's four bolts that hold the bottom together that should be coated with threadlocker and re-torqued. They come loose and the hinge part of the column gets sloppy.
#16
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Are you the one who did the web video to fix sloppy tilt steering columns? It was a great how to that clearly showed logical sequential teardown and rebuild. On a Chevy Blazer or Silverado IIRC.
#17
No, I didn't make it but I do remember posting it somewhere. There are several on YouTube, just search for GM steering column. I reviewed several last year before tearing into my GMC because it had been many years since I was into a column and they have changed a few things since then.
The good news for Fakser is he doesn't have a tilt column and won't have to worry about this stuff.
#19
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
#20
So, did you get the ignition cylinder(tumbler) out? I have changed two, first was a pain in the ****. The CSM explains it but the picture could be better. In both columns the place where I needed to put a thin bladed screwdriver was sealed over ( thin flashing). The post with the screw hole has a flat side facing the center of the column. Follow the flat down, using the thin blade push on the floor (flashing). This will open a slot. While incerting the blade turn it so it's angled to be able to "catch" the locking slot sticking up out of the tumbler. Light pressure pulling out, pushing down on screwdriver, both times cylinder came out fot me. Hope this helps. Ken
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