acrylic laquer cover up?
#1
acrylic laquer cover up?
What can you do to cover up all the cracking and hazing in a 1965 paint job to prep it for a good paint job? Do you have to strip the whole car?
Wanting to do my starfire myself. Can't afford to take it in. I have painted small things in the past but am not sure about what to do with the paint thats on the car.
Wanting to do my starfire myself. Can't afford to take it in. I have painted small things in the past but am not sure about what to do with the paint thats on the car.
#3
You really should strip the car to bare metal for a good paint job.
It can be stripped mechanically by sanding it off with a dual action air or electric sander with 80 grit discs or chemically with paint stripper.
It can be stripped mechanically by sanding it off with a dual action air or electric sander with 80 grit discs or chemically with paint stripper.
#5
Stripping is the only way to get quality results!
I'd recommend soda blasting, as it won't hurt chrome or rubber, washes off with soap and water, and if you, [or they] mask your window, door, trunk and hood openings with duct tape, it's an 'easy clean' before paint - just blow it out!
The finish it leaves is great for paint adhesion, and you'll have 'no surprises' after stripping!
JMO -
I'd recommend soda blasting, as it won't hurt chrome or rubber, washes off with soap and water, and if you, [or they] mask your window, door, trunk and hood openings with duct tape, it's an 'easy clean' before paint - just blow it out!
The finish it leaves is great for paint adhesion, and you'll have 'no surprises' after stripping!
JMO -
#6
I'm with RickMan here; I've heard the SAME compelling case he lays out here...
Stripping is the only way to get quality results!
I'd recommend soda blasting, as it won't hurt chrome or rubber, washes off with soap and water, and if you, [or they] mask your window, door, trunk and hood openings with duct tape, it's an 'easy clean' before paint - just blow it out!
The finish it leaves is great for paint adhesion, and you'll have 'no surprises' after stripping!
JMO -
I'd recommend soda blasting, as it won't hurt chrome or rubber, washes off with soap and water, and if you, [or they] mask your window, door, trunk and hood openings with duct tape, it's an 'easy clean' before paint - just blow it out!
The finish it leaves is great for paint adhesion, and you'll have 'no surprises' after stripping!
JMO -
#7
I used the purple dual action sander from Harbor Freight, but I recommend 3M discs not HF. You will need the full roll from 3M, about 150 discs. If doing it in your garazge, use drop cloths around the car or you will have sander paint dust everywhere. It does work well, though, and there is no slime to deactivate, wash off, deal with when you clean the car. And, using chemical stripper means very thouough, painstaking cleanup so the new paint will stick. Media blasting is OK but it gets everywhere too, and if you use too much pressure or get too much localized heat, you will warp the body panels.
#8
Stripping is the only way to get quality results!
I'd recommend soda blasting, as it won't hurt chrome or rubber, washes off with soap and water, and if you, [or they] mask your window, door, trunk and hood openings with duct tape, it's an 'easy clean' before paint - just blow it out!
The finish it leaves is great for paint adhesion, and you'll have 'no surprises' after stripping!
JMO -
I'd recommend soda blasting, as it won't hurt chrome or rubber, washes off with soap and water, and if you, [or they] mask your window, door, trunk and hood openings with duct tape, it's an 'easy clean' before paint - just blow it out!
The finish it leaves is great for paint adhesion, and you'll have 'no surprises' after stripping!
JMO -
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