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Ive never painted before.

What should I do to prep each part before painting?
Do I have to strip all paint off of the part or can I paint over it?
Can I wire brush the rust off or do I have to have it blasted off or use chemical rust remover?


Should I use Paint and Primer from rattle can or should I get a paint gun?
Whats the best way to paint all the small stuff, door hings, control arms etc..?

Just some general questions I have about painting anything before I start.

Dave Siltman

Kinda depends on what you are painting. Just remember the golden rule---the better the prep, the better the finished product. If possible, most things should be stripped bare, primed and then final paint applied. I've had good success stripping small stuff on a bench grinder with wire wheel and with a Snap-On angle grinder also with a wire wheel head. Then, I thoroughly clean with lacquer thinner, then prime, then sand, and if needed prime again, then sand again, then lightly wipe again with lacquer thinner, and FINALLY paint. Sometimes, the paint is left to dry overnight and then scuffed and painted again. I usually use Krylon, or Rustoleum has a new line of rattle can products that are quite good. At first, it is a PITA, then after you get some good results and are proud of what you've accomplished, it gets easier and more fun. It is gratifying "taking chicken sh#t and making chiucken salad".

Lady72nRob71

I did my whole underhood resto (see my link below) with spray cans, and you can too. I found spray painting to be very rewarding and even fun to do!
The key things are having a CLEAN, slightly rough surface. Lacquer thinner should be used before paint. A slightly rough (like a chalkboard) surface gives some tooth for ther paint to get into and hold on to.

For the best look and adhesion, sandblasting first is recomended. From there, just apply paint starting in several thin coats and worked towards slightly thicker coats at the end.

Previously painted stuff would ideally be wirewheeled or sanded to bare metal. This would be best if the old paint is chipping.
If it is rough enough after paint oremoval, then clean, prime, and paint. If it still seems smooth, then you will need to either etch them metal with POR15 "metal prep", OR prime with a self-etching primer. The POR15 stuff will take smoth metal and chemically make it into a chalkboard finish - makes GREAT paint adhesion. A self etching primer will bypass that step.
Enamel paints do not go well over lacquer so removal will eliminate it from being a possible issue.
Good enamel can sanded with 600 grit or coarse scotchbrite to rough it up, then prime and paint.

Go slow and take your time. Read the instructions on the can and understand the recoat times (usually within 30-60 minutes.) Use thin coats first, then gradually get them thicker. Keep the can moving so it does not run.

With the right prep and techniques, even walmart brand paints will give you stunning results. Just make sure the paint you get will handle the heat the part might be exposed to.
Most of Eastwood's specialty paints are good, as I used many of them for on the chassis and brake parts or places that will get hot.

Boldsmobile

See if you can find a local sandblaster. I got lucky and found a guy locally that is extremely reasonable. Like a box of parts for $20. Everything gets etched primed first. Under carriage parts get epoxy chassis black. Everything else is per original finish.

I am restoring a 83 Hurst and its amazing how much nicer parts look when starting from a bare surface.