1971 sienna interior stuff wanted...and other 71 items
#1
1971 sienna interior stuff wanted...and other 71 items
its a small list,hopefully somebody will have good used stuff for me..
the headliner windlace,runs front to back,also goes around windshield and backglass.mine has shrunk and dis colored..
door jamb windlace,really need passenger side but both would be nice
chrome for the front of the hood,goes around the grill but attaches to front edge of hood.
center console lid
left lower outer tailight lense
all parts are for a 1971 cutlass "S" with sienna interior..
the headliner windlace,runs front to back,also goes around windshield and backglass.mine has shrunk and dis colored..
door jamb windlace,really need passenger side but both would be nice
chrome for the front of the hood,goes around the grill but attaches to front edge of hood.
center console lid
left lower outer tailight lense
all parts are for a 1971 cutlass "S" with sienna interior..
#2
I don't know you will find all that you seek here - but have you looked at opgi.com for your parts - they have an extensive collection of Oldsmobile stuff. The Olds catalog I got from them - it looks like if you had a bare frame you could basically build a new car from all the parts available from the catalog.
#3
I have parted a few 71's with the sienna interior.It is a unique,one-year-only color.It is actually known as a yellow,when trying to mix it.I am currently getting a mix to do vinyl,as I have a customer's car to do.I have the original sienna door jamb windlace.I'll see if I have the other windlace,or figure out where I put it.I have the front hood moldings for 71.I have console lids,but they are black.Another reason I am getting the correct dye mixed.I'll check on the tail light lense too.
#6
I have all of that. I have pictures of the windlace.If you go over to the for sale section,and look for my ad with the door jamb windlace,I posted pictures of some of it layed-out.You can see the sienna pieces towards the back,but I can bring them with me tomorrow,and take better pictures of them.I also have the hood trim & tail light lense.Did you get the other parts you needed before?
#14
Wait until you guys try to get a dye made in that color.It took me awhile to get the right mix.It is actually considered a yellow.A lot of the paint companies don't have any info on that color.I had to find a parts car,with a good metal dash section,that wasn't faded or damaged,& cut a section out so they could sample it to make a mix.All of the plastic pieces have a texture of some sort,on both sides,and it throws the sensor off.
#16
The only other place that you can get a pure,clean sample,is on the backside of the metal filler panels,that run vertical,up the sides of the rear seat.The front side has a txture,but the backside is smooth,and most of the time,there is a full coating of that color,and preserved from the sun & elements.
Sam,
I will be needed to get the 70 metallic blue for a future resto,so I will probably get the sample from that.If you have a mix code for the sienna,send it along.I have to do a convertible this spring,so it's always good to have a back-up plan.I'll get those wheels check-out soon.
Sam,
I will be needed to get the 70 metallic blue for a future resto,so I will probably get the sample from that.If you have a mix code for the sienna,send it along.I have to do a convertible this spring,so it's always good to have a back-up plan.I'll get those wheels check-out soon.
#18
Brian,
Below is a message i received from a member on the other site in regards to the Sienna interior paint......i have never had it mixed for myself..
DUPONT PAINT
"I went through about 4 color matches before i settled on the color i used.
It is an old GM interior color 1985 Russet 68CN
for one pint
884J LS Red Oxide 50.8
802J LS White 68.7
806J HS Black 73.7
304S Low Gloss Vinyl Clear 419
For Med Gloss use 305S
For High Gloss use 306S
Low Gloss Mix seems too flat for interior metal parts. I went with the low gloss and had to clear it to get some gloss back. The next batch i order will be medium gloss. I recommend the medium gloss.
This has no metal flake so it will not work on exterior. The exterior is harder to match. Somewhere i have a code for a mid 80s Nissan color that is the closest i have seen to Sienna"
Below is a message i received from a member on the other site in regards to the Sienna interior paint......i have never had it mixed for myself..
DUPONT PAINT
"I went through about 4 color matches before i settled on the color i used.
It is an old GM interior color 1985 Russet 68CN
for one pint
884J LS Red Oxide 50.8
802J LS White 68.7
806J HS Black 73.7
304S Low Gloss Vinyl Clear 419
For Med Gloss use 305S
For High Gloss use 306S
Low Gloss Mix seems too flat for interior metal parts. I went with the low gloss and had to clear it to get some gloss back. The next batch i order will be medium gloss. I recommend the medium gloss.
This has no metal flake so it will not work on exterior. The exterior is harder to match. Somewhere i have a code for a mid 80s Nissan color that is the closest i have seen to Sienna"
#19
That mix is from me - i am here too !!!
I used that blend to do bucket seat trim, rear side covers, steering column, console, a pillar covers and rear shelf package. I will also be painting a headliner and dash pad at some point.
Several issues. Brian is right about the scanning. I already tried that. Some of textures, some parts were originally painted some used in-mold pigment, base plastics are differents, sun fades each of them differently.
I went through something like 4-5 blends. I believe they were $60 for each pint i had blended.
I went with the Russet blend because i felt was the best match to the new seat covers and close enough to the door panels.
My wheels on the car were painted with a Nissan code. My car was painted laquer in 1988. That Nissan code was selected based on a scan from my trunk lid. It is not close enough to do a body panel. It is close enough on the wheel with the separation of the rubber and the wheel well. I just looked for that code and cant find. I believe it is written on a test panel in the garage. I will try to find it.
Its a unique color which usually gets a lot of comments but its a bit of a curse too.
Ron DiPietro on ROP is selling some brand new Sienna seat covers in case you need some.
I used that blend to do bucket seat trim, rear side covers, steering column, console, a pillar covers and rear shelf package. I will also be painting a headliner and dash pad at some point.
Several issues. Brian is right about the scanning. I already tried that. Some of textures, some parts were originally painted some used in-mold pigment, base plastics are differents, sun fades each of them differently.
I went through something like 4-5 blends. I believe they were $60 for each pint i had blended.
I went with the Russet blend because i felt was the best match to the new seat covers and close enough to the door panels.
My wheels on the car were painted with a Nissan code. My car was painted laquer in 1988. That Nissan code was selected based on a scan from my trunk lid. It is not close enough to do a body panel. It is close enough on the wheel with the separation of the rubber and the wheel well. I just looked for that code and cant find. I believe it is written on a test panel in the garage. I will try to find it.
Its a unique color which usually gets a lot of comments but its a bit of a curse too.
Ron DiPietro on ROP is selling some brand new Sienna seat covers in case you need some.
#21
My 71 SX is Sienna inside and out. I had vinyl dye mixed at a paint shop back in 1997 and I found it today and it's still usable. I had it mixed by the Dupont formula number 9820. (Dark Sienna) The can I had mixed has a V after it, as it's for vinyl applications with a lot of resins in it. The colour is perfect. Sienna has always been a curse as only Oldsmobile and Pontiac used it and only for the one year. I believe Sienna was offered in Firebirds. To this day nobody makes a Sienna carpet. Maybe we need to bombard Auto Custom Carpets with email requests.
I could attempt to go to NAPA, (was UAP) to see if the formula is still available if you wish. You have my sympathies.
I could attempt to go to NAPA, (was UAP) to see if the formula is still available if you wish. You have my sympathies.
#22
RocketBrian summed it all up pretty good. The previous mix I had,was a dupont,and it was exact.I did some pieces for Ron D,and I sent him the can,along with the parts.Here we are a few years later,and I need to do it again.I don't have the can,or the mix,and Ron D doesn't have the can anymore either,since he sold the car.I'll get the right mix again.I don't want it close,I want it exact.I had to do the same thing for the dark saddle color for the 72's.It took a few trials,costing $30.00 a pop,but now I have it.I will also be doing the metallic blue for 70.
#23
Brian, where do you get the trials at $30 each? I had to buy a pint every time and the above price was for a pint. They told me the amount of red was what made it expensive.
Also, I struggle with the correct reference part to use to match? The pillars and cowl being metal dont look the same color as the dash pad nor the door panels. In fact id say the dash pad has a LOT more brown in it now than the door panels (after 40 years of fading). My interior was all original when before i added the tilt column and console. When it came time to paint the parts i was adding I could have used the a pillars, back sides of door pulls, door panels, original seat covers, sail panels, dash pad, ash tray, glove box but they were all very different colors. Especially as i brought them into a light booth.
Question i have is ....... i believe the factory was never an exact match between all the different materials (metal, pvs, abs , leather and etc) and different textures (smooth and grain) , do you paint every single thing in the car to your dupont blend? Seat covers included?
I decided to paint to match the new seat covers. Not that i would be afraid to paint seats but felt i needed to draw the line as the goal of my car was to have it be clean and neat and original looking but not concourse because its just not that unique of a car.
If either of you guys can share what the formula for that blend i would appreciate it.
Also, I struggle with the correct reference part to use to match? The pillars and cowl being metal dont look the same color as the dash pad nor the door panels. In fact id say the dash pad has a LOT more brown in it now than the door panels (after 40 years of fading). My interior was all original when before i added the tilt column and console. When it came time to paint the parts i was adding I could have used the a pillars, back sides of door pulls, door panels, original seat covers, sail panels, dash pad, ash tray, glove box but they were all very different colors. Especially as i brought them into a light booth.
Question i have is ....... i believe the factory was never an exact match between all the different materials (metal, pvs, abs , leather and etc) and different textures (smooth and grain) , do you paint every single thing in the car to your dupont blend? Seat covers included?
I decided to paint to match the new seat covers. Not that i would be afraid to paint seats but felt i needed to draw the line as the goal of my car was to have it be clean and neat and original looking but not concourse because its just not that unique of a car.
If either of you guys can share what the formula for that blend i would appreciate it.
#24
I don't even think I'm getting a pint at $30.00.It's enough to try in a spray bomb,and test on a piece.I think my half-pint of the correct mix of dark saddle was almost $70.00. You are correct in thinking that their ARE slightly different colors between the metal interior parts,and the vinyl interior parts.This is due to the different additives for the vinyl,compared to the metal.The amount of gloss will also make a color look completely different.You can also take parts from one car,and compare them to parts from another car,and they are not always the same.I'm sure the mixes varied each time,as well as what plant the car was built at.
It is best to have your new mixes put in pint or quart cans,then putting them into whatever sprayer you choose.You can have the correct mix,and just putting it into a spray can,with aerosol,will change the final outcome of the color.
Yes,I've been around this block a few times.
It is best to have your new mixes put in pint or quart cans,then putting them into whatever sprayer you choose.You can have the correct mix,and just putting it into a spray can,with aerosol,will change the final outcome of the color.
Yes,I've been around this block a few times.
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