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Decided to get my Cutlass on the road for the Hot Rod Tour of TX at the end of April. Time and parts availability are a factor but this is also a temporary motor. Future plan is a 355 built right with a little boost. I'm willing to spend a little money now on items that can be transferred to the future motor but the long block is going to be quick and cheap so the car can quit collecting dust. I've built several Chevy performance motors over the years and a couple fords and one bone stock olds but this will be my first dive in to an Olds performance motor. I'm looking for experienced advice on brands and parts to buy or stay away from keeping in mind my time crunch. Can't wait on back orders.
-403 block stock and never apart. Minimal bore ridge. Plan is clean and ball hone
-crank polish and have drilled for pilot bushing
-pistons and rods clean and reuse
-bearings was looking a King but open to suggestion
-rings stock cast replacement open to suggestion
-heads 7A with performance valve job
-Rockers open for suggestion and willing to spend more since they can transfer
-Cam looking at Comp EX274H since it's in stock but open for suggestion
-chain open for suggestion
-Intake looking at Performer RPM
-Carb talking with a Qjet builder but will go Holley 750VS if he can't meet my deadline
-Balancer open to suggestions and willing to spend more now since it can transfer
-oil pump I assume stock replacement with stock pan?
-fuel pump open to suggestions
-Headers ARH 1 7/8"
Bearings will likely be whatever gives you the clearance you need, and you may be trying several sets. They all have variance, and at your power level, I wouldn't get too caught up on the right type (Clevite or King or Federal Mogul are fine).
For rockers, if you aren't enlarging the bolt holes to go stud-mount, the only bolt-on option is really the Harland Sharp mini-shaft mount (Mondello sold them in purple like 25 years ago and they are the HD shaft verson). If you are going stud mount, you have the Harland Sharp 5016s.
For the balancer, you might be external balance now and internal balance later, so don't get too caught up in that... I'd buy a Powerbond stock replacement for now and move on.
You are going to want at least 64cc chambers with that cam. That gives you 9 to 1 with standard Felpro head gaskets. Also consider 2" or 2.07" intake and 1.625" exhaust valves with the bowls opened. Obviously the matching springs and positive seals are also nice. Yeah, an adjustable valve train is needed and you may as well upgrade to a 7/16" stud mount rockers of your choice.
Ditch the idea of 1 7/8 ARH headers. Waste of money for your build.
Then buy a wideband O2 and tune whatever carb you end up with correctly.
I’d also use a bit less cam that what you listed but that’s your call.
Man, you must be a glutton for punishment taking on such a tight time frame. I see the fun in it, but damn... I have been building Olds engines as a specialty for over 35 years now so I'll give you my take on it. The biggest problem with these 403 "smog dogs" is that they are 7.9:1 - MAYBE 8:1 with some carbon build ups in the chambers lol. If you really want to do anything worthwhile with these, you either keep the cam rather small to capitalize on the torque OR bump the compression up. The '77-'79 Trans Ams ran the 403 with automatic trans, and the Poncho 400 with the 4 speed. This was because the Olds 403 in smog trim just wouldn't pull well with a manual trans - they just worked better capitalizing on their strong low end torque combined with the torque multiplication of an auto trans torque converter. Since you are running a stick, you need to change the characteristics of the engine to more so a stick friendly package. You need the get the compression up and cam it accordingly. Over cam the stock low compression and it's going to be a stone... The 7A heads would be great! If you already have them, or have a solid line on them, go with it.
If you don't have the heads yet, or they somehow slip through your fingers, I have a set of 1970 "6' casting heads that I can ship out within 48 hours. I have torn them down and cleaned the fire out of them, but they can be put right back together and bolted right onto an engine and run. I marked all the valves to their respective cylinders to be certain I could put them right back into perfectly running form again if needed. On either the 6 or the 7A heads, all you need to do is upsize the head bolt holes in these early castings from 7/16" up to the later model 1/2" - this can be done quickly and easily even on a basic drill press. It wouldn't even take me a half hour to drill the heads I have here at present since the valves are currently out. The reason why I ended up not using them on a prior 403 build is because I would have wanted to install larger valves in them. The intake is 1.877" - a larger intake valve with help it breathe, especially on a 403. The 403 intake valve is 1.990" - not really all that much bigger. It wouldn't take any particularly exotic machine work to install some 2" intakes in these heads (which is what I was going to have done). The exhaust valve out of the 6 head is measuring in at 1.561", while the 403 exhaust valve 1.503", so you could leave the exhaust valves alone, but do suggest a slight upgrade to help it exhaust better. The previous owner had the heads recently redone before I obtained them, and he had hardened exhaust seats installed - bonus with todays ethanol fuels. I believe the 7A heads where already unleaded spec in '72. Here's what happens when you bolt the 6 or 7A castings on in place of the smogger 4A castings:
9.5:1 compression - which will work MUCH better with any respectable cam. Both the 6 castings and the 7A castings are 64cc chambers, so you're in the zone.
I also have a new in box Crane H-284-2, part number 804551:
I also have a set of quality Sealed Power HT-951 lifters to go with this cam. With the compression ratio up in the 9 1/2:1 range, a manual trans and a decent rear gear, it ought to run rather well.
Ridge ream the cylinders, ball hone the cylinders, then RockAuto up a set of Moly rings. The moly rings seat in more reliably and faster, especially in a ball honed cylinder with variable cross hatch patterns... I'd personally reach for the Sealed Power E378K, which Rock Auto is showing they have 1 set currently available in standard bore size. Bearings? I'd go with SEALED POWER 4281M for the mains, and KING CR817AM or SEALED POWER 83045A on the rods.
Timing chain? No need to go fancy on this temporary build. Any decent pre smog basic chain set will get you where you want to go - I wouldn't really want to carry that over into your next build, as you'd want a fresh upscale chain set on that. Note that the later stock type smog era chain sets had some cam timing retard built into them, so I always reach for the earlier '69-'70 chain sets. The CLOYES C3082 is a reliable quality basic chain set at a good price point: Excellent basic Cloyes Chain Set
If you want the upscale double roller, make sure you set it "straight up" (no advance or retard unless you are painstakingly degreeing in the cam) - Cloyes 93513X9: Cloyes Double Roller Street Billet Chain Set
Should you find the double roller street billet has excessive slop in it (happens), order in this slightly tighter .005" tighter replacement chain (this is only the chain) to tune the chain in - Cloyes 9-133-5: .005 Tighter Cloyes Double Roller Chain (chain only)
Cloyes 9-133-10 is the .010" shorter chain, but typically only needed when the crank is align bored (which moves the crankshaft upward within the block a hair). You want just a slight amount of side to side deflection when installing a double roller - roughly 3/8" - you do not want it excessively sloppy as chain whip will occur eating up the sprockets, but you do not want it guitar string tight either. Stock type "link belt" chains (like the Cloyes C3082) are designed to handle slop no problem.
Valve train? Oldsrocketparts.com has the perfect valvetrain solution in my opinion: Complete valvetrain solution for hydraulic flat tappet cam with stock Olds heads
I have used this kit before with perfect results. Despite being based upon the small 5/16" factory small threads in the head castings, this kit can reliably handle some decent spring pressures. You are going to want to put some solid retainers on some good springs so that you can rev it out to 5500ish, so definitely look at this complete package.
Intake? Yep - Edelbrock Performer RPM will take care of business for you. Do anything that basically suits you for the carb. A Q-jet set up properly will take care of business, but so long as you don't over carb it you will be fine with alternate carb choices.
Balancer? I have had issues with certain stock replacement / aftermarket balancers as they are all seemingly slanted towards 455's. You don't have time to be getting into balancing, so believe it or not, for the time being, if the balancer you have isn't showing any particular signs of distress, clean it up and re-use it to be sure not to disturb the balancing - put a repair sleeve on it if you have to. I have had some 403's get weird on me, going down the rabbit hole to get the vibrations ironed out.
Oiling? Capacity is king, especially on an Olds. My recipe is to install a Melling M22HV high volume pump, then put a larger capacity pan on it. Literally anything is better than the stock 4 quart pan! If you want a great pan that you can carry over to your next build, spend the money on a Canton Racing Road Race Series Wet Sump Oil Pans 15-502. My current favorite is actually a true 8 quart pan, but it does hang down below the average chassis about an inch so you just can't be blazing across rail road tracks haphazardly (!). Hop on Ebay and enter in HZ-9398-PBK (black version), and make sure to get the matching HZ-9399-PBK pick up tube. The chrome version is HZ-9398-C, and the goldish zinc version is HZ-9398-Z (available through multiple different sellers and branding). I have found that they hold so much oil that I actually run them a quart low, using the "add" mark on the dipstick as the "full" demarcation. I have literally taken these pans and filled them quart by quart in the parts washer with mineral spirits and a large quart sized measuring cup to see where the oil level ends up in relation to the internal oil pan baffle. It is just my opinion that when you have a pan with this much capacity, you can easily run it a quart low on purpose to keep excess oil away from the rotating mass which has its benefits.
Fuel pump? I have found the Carter Muscle Car Mechanical Fuel Pumps M6109 to be about the most reliable and highest flowing basic pump for a hopped up 403. I have tried countless amounts of pumps over the years, and the biggest problem is that a LOT of them freak out on todays ethanol blend fuels. The rubber diaphragms start swelling up, leading to less and less output, and can get so bad as to leave you on the side of the road (!) These Carter pumps are capable of handling today's weirded out blends of pump gas. If you get into anything more than 375-400 horse, mechanical fuel pumps that I'm aware of just can't provide enough fuel - got to bite the bullet and go electric... Carter Muscle Car Series Oldsmobile Mechanical Fuel Pumps
Headers? You can argue that one for days on end... I would look at what will suit your next permanent build to guide you for choosing your headers - the 403 won't really care.
Hope this helps! PM me if you may be interested in the Crane cam and Sealed Power lifters I have - can ship out immediately. The 1970 "6" heads are also available quickly if needed - let me know.
Paul
Last edited by Clark455; April 13th, 2023 at 03:57 PM.
Reason: Additional Timing Chain Information
Ditch the idea of 1 7/8 ARH headers. Waste of money for your build.
Then buy a wideband O2 and tune whatever carb you end up with correctly.
I’d also use a bit less cam that what you listed but that’s your call.
Already have them for the future build. That cam was not my first choice but it was in stock. You have anything in stock or all yours built to order.?
Man, you must be a glutton for punishment taking on such a tight time frame. I see the fun in it, but damn... I have been building 403's for over 35 years now so I'll give you my take on it. The biggest problem with these "smog dogs" is that they are 7.9:1 - MAYBE 8:1 with some carbon build ups in the chambers lol. If you really want to do anything worthwhile with these, you either keep the cam rather small to capitalize on the torque OR bump the compression up. The '77-'79 Trans Ams ran the 403 with automatic trans, and the Poncho 400 with the 4 speed. This was because the Olds 403 in smog trim just wouldn't pull well with a manual trans - they just worked better capitalizing on their strong low end torque combined with the torque multiplication of an auto trans torque converter. Since you are running a stick, you need to change the characteristics of the engine to more so a stick friendly package. You need the get the compression up and cam it accordingly. Over cam the stock low compression and it's going to be a stone... The 7A heads would be great! If you already have them, or have a solid line on them, go with it.
If you don't have the heads yet, or they somehow slip through your fingers, I have a set of 1970 "6' casting heads that I can ship out within 48 hours. I have torn them down and cleaned the fire out of them, but they can be put right back together and bolted right onto an engine and run. I marked all the valves to their respective cylinders to be certain I could put them right back into perfectly running form again if needed. On either the 6 or the 7A heads, all you need to do is upsize the head bolt holes in these early castings from 7/16" up to the later model 1/2" - this can be done quickly and easily even on a basic drill press. It wouldn't even take me a half hour to drill the heads I have here at present since the valves are currently out. The reason why I ended up not using them on a prior 403 build is because I would have wanted to install larger valves in them. The intake is 1.877" - a larger intake valve with help it breathe, especially on a 403. The 403 intake valve is 1.990" - not really all that much bigger. It wouldn't take any particularly exotic machine work to install some 2" intakes in these heads (which is what I was going to have done). The exhaust valve out of the 6 head is measuring in at 1.561", while the 403 exhaust valve 1.503", so you could leave the exhaust valves alone, but do suggest a slight upgrade to help it exhaust better. The previous owner had the heads recently redone before I obtained them, and he had hardened exhaust seats installed - bonus with todays ethanol fuels. I believe the 7A heads where already unleaded spec in '72. Here's what happens when you bolt the 6 or 7A castings on in place of the smogger 4A castings:
9.5:1 compression - which will work MUCH better with any respectable cam. Both the 6 castings and the 7A castings are 64cc chambers, so you're in the zone.
I also have a new in box Crane H-284-2, part number 804551:
I also have a set of quality Sealed Power HT-951 lifters to go with this cam. With the compression ratio up in the 9 1/2:1 range, a manual trans and a decent rear gear, it ought to run rather well.
Ridge ream the cylinders, ball hone the cylinders, then RockAuto up a set of Moly rings. The moly rings seat in more reliably and faster, especially in a ball honed cylinder with variable cross hatch patterns... I'd personally reach for the Sealed Power E378K, which Rock Auto is showing they have 1 set currently available in standard bore size. Bearings? I'd go with SEALED POWER 4281M for the mains, and KING CR817AM or SEALED POWER 3045A or 83045A on the rods. Timing chain? Any decent double roller set "straight up" will get you where you want to go - I wouldn't really want to carry that over into your next build, as you'd want a fresh chain set on that. The CLOYES 9133 is a reliable quality basic double roller at a good price point.
Valve train? Oldsrocketparts.com has the perfect valvetrain solution in my opinion: Complete valvetrain solution for hydraulic flat tappet cam with stock Olds heads
I have used this kit before with perfect results. Despite being based upon the small 5/16" factory small threads in the head castings, this kit can reliably handle some decent spring pressures. You are going to want to put some solid retainers on some good springs so that you can rev it out to 5500ish, so definitely look at this complete package.
Intake? Yep - Edelbrock Performer RPM will take care of business for you. Do anything that basically suits you for the carb. A Q-jet set up properly will take care of business, but so long as you don't over carb it you will be fine with alternate carb choices.
Balancer? I have had issues with certain stock replacement / aftermarket balancers as they are all seemingly slanted towards 455's. You don't have time to be getting into balancing, so believe it or not, for the time being, if the balancer you have isn't showing any particular signs of distress, clean it up and re-use it to be sure not to disturb the balancing - put a repair sleeve on it if you have to. I have had some 403's get weird on me, going down the rabbit hole to get the vibrations ironed out.
Oiling? Capacity is king, especially on an Olds. My recipe is to install a Melling M22HV high volume pump, then put a larger capacity pan on it. Literally anything is better than the stock 4 quart pan! If you want a great pan that you can carry over to your next build, spend the money on a Canton Racing Road Race Series Wet Sump Oil Pans 15-502. My current favorite is actually a true 8 quart pan, but it does hang down below the average chassis about an inch so you just can't be blazing across rail road tracks haphazardly (!). Hop on Ebay and enter in HZ-9398-PBK (black version), and make sure to get the matching HZ-9399-PBK pick up tube. The chrome version is HZ-9398-C, and the goldish zinc version is HZ-9398-Z (available through multiple different sellers and branding). I have found that they hold so much oil that I actually run them a quart low, using the "add" mark on the dipstick as the "full" demarcation. I have literally taken these pans and filled them quart by quart in the parts washer with mineral spirits and a large quart sized measuring cup to see where the oil level ends up in relation to the internal oil pan baffle. It is just my opinion that when you have a pan with this much capacity, you can easily run it a quart low on purpose to keep excess oil away from the rotating mass which has its benefits.
Fuel pump? I have found the Carter Muscle Car Mechanical Fuel Pumps M6109 to be about the most reliable and highest flowing basic pump for a hopped up 403. I have tried countless amounts of pumps over the years, and the biggest problem is that a LOT of them freak out on todays ethanol blend fuels. The rubber diaphragms start swelling up, leading to less and less output, and can get so bad as to leave you on the side of the road (!) These Carter pumps are capable of handling today's weirded out blends of pump gas. If you get into anything more than 375-400 horse, mechanical fuel pumps that I'm aware of just can't provide enough fuel - got to bite the bullet and go electric... Carter Muscle Car Series Oldsmobile Mechanical Fuel Pumps
Headers? You can argue that one for days on end... I would look at what will suit your next permanent build to guide you for choosing your headers - the 403 won't really care.
Hope this helps! PM me if you may be interested in the Crane cam and Sealed Power lifters I have - can ship out immediately. The 1970 "6" heads are also available quickly if needed - let me know.
Paul
Thanks for the long detailed reply.
I get to blame my wife in the last minute build. I had planned on taking an. LS swapped Suburban that just needs a little sorting out. She brought up why don't to get the Cutlass going. I'm seen you put car together in day before LOL
I have the 7a heads already but thanks on the offer on the 6 heads.
That Canton pan really nice, it has pan mounted dipstick option along with baffles including a hinged one over the pickup. It is very well made. The Scat balancer is affordable and looks well made. That Crane cam is a touch milder, looks not too bad. I do have a 850 cfm Qjet I totally rebuilt following Cliff's recipe for a cam similar to that Comp you are looking at. I like a smooth idle too much to probably ever use it. PM me if interested.
Decided to get my Cutlass on the road for the Hot Rod Tour of TX at the end of April. Time and parts availability are a factor but this is also a temporary motor which is difficult to compete with the new fast cars https://epicvin.com/blog/top-12-chea...to-buy-in-2023. Future plan is a 355 built right with a little boost. I'm willing to spend a little money now on items that can be transferred to the future motor but the long block is going to be quick and cheap so the car can quit collecting dust. I've built several Chevy performance motors over the years and a couple fords and one bone stock olds but this will be my first dive in to an Olds performance motor. I'm looking for experienced advice on brands and parts to buy or stay away from keeping in mind my time crunch. Can't wait on back orders.
-403 block stock and never apart. Minimal bore ridge. Plan is clean and ball hone
-crank polish and have drilled for pilot bushing
-pistons and rods clean and reuse
-bearings was looking a King but open to suggestion
-rings stock cast replacement open to suggestion
-heads 7A with performance valve job
-Rockers open for suggestion and willing to spend more since they can transfer
-Cam looking at Comp EX274H since it's in stock but open for suggestion
-chain open for suggestion
-Intake looking at Performer RPM
-Carb talking with a Qjet builder but will go Holley 750VS if he can't meet my deadline
-Balancer open to suggestions and willing to spend more now since it can transfer
-oil pump I assume stock replacement with stock pan?
-fuel pump open to suggestions
-Headers ARH 1 7/8"
Good luck! And what budget do you plan to spend on it?
Did everything come together for a good success story? Did you make the cruise? I'm partially invested as I did provide you with the cam and lifters, so let us know.
Fingers crossed that everything came together for you!
Did everything come together for a good success story? Did you make the cruise? I'm partially invested as I did provide you with the cam and lifters, so let us know.
Originally Posted by Clark455
Fingers crossed that everything came together for you!
Inquiring minds want to know
Paul...
Thanks for following up I was so close but did not quite make it. We just got back sunday from taking my wife's camaro. I took 2 weeks off and spent a bunch of money so I've jumped back in the truck and started making money this week. Shipping cars for my classic car transport business.
Couple of main problems. I got one missed box rod bearings so that cost me half a day. The headers would not clear the stock starter. I went to go get a new starter only to realize that my return spring for the bell crank hook to the stock starter. Had to make a bracket for that. By the time I finally started ready to stab the motor it was about 7:30. Between the Canton oil pan and headers I could not get the TKO 600 at the right angle without pulling the transmission. I aborted mission about 10:30 that night. Here is a quick overview of that night. If you go to my page the days before you can see progress in real time.
I had to rub my eyes a few times in disbelief - do you guys see what I am seeing?
What is the fuel pump, oil filter, water pump inlet, and oil fill tube doing on the driver's side of this 403???
Is this some sort of Australian driver's to passenger side flip design that exists?
I can't believe my eyes - what do you suppose we are looking at here? and how could this be possible?
BIZARRE - help me out here, as I've never seen such a thing before.
I had to rub my eyes a few times in disbelief - do you guys see what I am seeing?
What is the fuel pump, oil filter, water pump inlet, and oil fill tube doing on the driver's side of this 403???
Is this some sort of Australian driver's to passenger side flip design that exists?
I can't believe my eyes - what do you suppose we are looking at here? and how could this be possible?
BIZARRE - help me out here, as I've never seen such a thing before.
Paul
A lot of these social media apps like TikTok reverse the image for the person filming the content so that it is a mirror image for them. Everything is flipped.
A lot of these social media apps like TikTok reverse the image for the person filming the content so that it is a mirror image for them. Everything is flipped.
Correct LOL
The camera reverses the image that's filmed from the passenger side.
Staying away from social media, I did not know that the softwares do that - how bizarre to see it for the first time. I mean the harmonic balancer is on the correct end, as is the bellhousing, but seeing the other items on the opposite side so seamlessly really knocked me for a loop. Looking at the video again, I saw that the lettering on your T shirt was also backwards. I get it now, but that still strikes me as downright weird. I showed this to the guys here, and of course our 25 year old "kid" knew exactly what the deal was, but the rest of us at 50+ were definitely trippin' on this.
Bummer that you ran into issues, though I did believe you bit off more than you could chew (been there / done that). I was hoping you could pull it off though! The same thing happened to me years ago with the Woodward DreamCruise back when I used to live in Detroit. My stubborn streak and reputation wouldn't let me wave the white flag though, pulling a super long marathon getting a (Mopar) HEMI A833 trans grafted into place in my previous '87 455 442. That thing kept breaking every trans I put behind it, so I decided to go for the strongest trans I knew of and graft it in, as the Woodward DreamCruise was all about heavy duty burn outs and some serious $$$ street racing - wasn't going to miss it, and damn sure didn't want to break it... I got it done - pistol grip shifter, puck style sintered bronze clutch disc, Hays heavy as hell clutch plate and all, but I was so damned tired that it just made me ask myself if it was worth it. Years later, I say HELL YES, as I actually won quite a bit of money street racing in Pontiac that weekend, but again, talk about being wiped completely out. It took me about a week to recover. What would you call that - a mechanical hangover lol?
Here's an old 0-50 and back to zero braking Hydratech demo vid:
And YES dammit, I did end up eventually breaking that trans too !@#$%^&* Side stepping the clutch at 6500 RPM with the nitrous coming on ZOIKS! BIG fire when the gear oil hit the headers - thank the Lord the blaze went out quickly before turning my car into a charred wreck!
And I'll be damned if I didn't do it again THIS weekend 25 years after that incredible fight I picked with that trans installation. I decided to do the UMI frame notch kit on my '86 442 so that I could finally hook that b*tch, as the engine that's in there now broke traction at the top end of third gear so violently that I almost ditched the damned car into a big rock wall. I said THAT'S IT, broke out all of the equipment and stayed up all damned weekend just bound and determined to get it wrapped up and the shop cleaned back up before everybody showed up for work Monday morning. I DID IT ! Frame kit fully installed, room for 305's now! But OH MY GOOD LORD, my old *** is suffering all week now with a serious MECHANICAL HANGOVER the likes of which I haven't felt since that fateful installation of the HEMI trans into my previous 442. Was it worth it? HELL YES !!! The guys that work for me think I'm some sort of super hero getting it done over the weekend (more like supercrazy), and the satisfaction IS immense, but the wheels and tires won't even be here until Friday, and I don't know if I will have recovered enough to even put them on (DOH!) You know I will, but man am I ever hurtin' for it. I don't believe I will ever learn. I should have done only one side last weekend, and finished up the other side this weekend, but noooooo.... I just get in the groove and work it work it work, living up to my old nickname of MAXBOOGIE LOL.
PLASMA TORCH ACTIVATE! Test fit template Initial tack TIG my tail off Room for some rubber now! Test fit 295 with room to spare now!
Good effort on your part - keep us posted on your progress! Maybe you are smarter than I am, knowing when to wave the white flag!
Paul...
Last edited by Clark455; May 3rd, 2023 at 08:20 PM.
Reason: grammar...
Did you make the Texas tour at all?
I was there last year and this year in my Jag,,
Hope to have the Hurst/Olds running well enough to take it next year.
The Texas Tour is a lot of fun!
Did you make the Texas tour at all?
I was there last year and this year in my Jag,,
Hope to have the Hurst/Olds running well enough to take it next year.
The Texas Tour is a lot of fun!
Yea we took our 2011 Camaro SS
Better than nothing but still not the same. Unfortunately I have not had the chance to touch the car since we got back. Had to get back to making money and not spending it.
350 in the HO developed a knck,,so took it out,redid front suspension,brakes,etc,etc and havent gotten to engine yet. Doesnt look good for mine making it this year. Probably take the Jag again.
Originally Posted by gearheads78
Yea we took our 2011 Camaro SS
Better than nothing but still not the same. Unfortunately I have not had the chance to touch the car since we got back. Had to get back to making money and not spending it.
350 in the HO developed a knck,,so took it out,redid front suspension,brakes,etc,etc and havent gotten to engine yet. Doesnt look good for mine making it this year. Probably take the Jag again.
I should have the Cutlass this year. I just posted a video in the general section showing it lives. Need to build an exhaust and do some fine tuning stuff , but should be road ready soon.
Last edited by gearheads78; April 3rd, 2024 at 07:00 AM.
April 11th, 2023, 08:01 AM
Time crunch is right!
Did you make it happen?
Ok, I get it now
