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I am running a Holley style carb on my 400. Currently, I am running a new throttle cable from Inline Tube for the '69. I have taken an old throttle cable bracket designed for the Qjet, and cut it to allow it to be bolted via the 1 bolt on the carb
This leads me to two questions:
Is there a certain distance the cable and the bracket need to be away from eachother? I'm not 100% certain I am getting to WOT based on where the cable is bottoming out against the bracket
If the throttle cable seems to almost "loop" between the bracket and the firewall, is that a for sure indication that I need to go to a shorter cable?
I've seen many different answers on this, just trying to find a solid one not just for myself, but for those in the same boat moving forward.
Thanks.
Last edited by brotherGood; December 14th, 2022 at 10:24 AM.
Its frustrating trying to get it right with the carb linkage but I reused the original throttle cable and Q jet bracket on my 850 holley DP. I cut the bracket like you have done and bolted it with one bolt. I found that this would loosen up over a short time, turn and the effect WOT. So what I ended up doing was welding a a 90 degree bracket ( 2 strips about 1/4 inch x 1 inch ) underneath the Q jet bracket so that it rests on the back of holley bolt hole tab. This way it prevents it from turning when at WOT. In my case the original cable is likely a bit long and I'm sure your cable set up will be better. No one sees it when the breather is on. I do run a torker intake but I believe it should work with any kind. Good Luck
I'm hoping over the next week or two I can address this, so bringing this back as a refresher. I will for sure look into the bracket as suggested above, but in regards to the throttle cable, how do I tell if its simply too long? Could I move the bracket back somehow and that fix the issue, or would it just move the "too long" problem to being the distance between firewall and bracket?
First of all I never would use the spring the way you did for the return. Mine is a separate bracket for the spring forward on the intake. Hooked to the carb linkage to add pressure .
First of all I never would use the spring the way you did for the return. Mine is a separate bracket for the spring forward on the intake. Hooked to the carb linkage to add pressure .
If you enlarge the picture you can tell that is a factory throttle cable. The bracket under the carb is set up to use factory throttle cable. The front bracket is a L angle I fabbed. I think dick miller sells a crab plate like the one under my carb to use factory cable.
Whoop whoop as promised my home made bracket. You can add the factory throttle bracket L angle to this and waala game over! You can use screws and lock washer's and self locking nuts when you add the throttle bracket to this type plate.
Last edited by wr1970; December 24th, 2022 at 11:20 AM.
Whoop whoop as promised my home made bracket. You can add the factory throttle bracket L angle to this and waala game over! You can use screws and lock washer's and self locking nuts when you add the throttle bracket to this type plate.
Must've missed this earlier...if I were running an aftermarket intake I probably would have to figure out how to have one of those fabbed up. Running the factory intake plus adapter, I'd have to get a bit creative I'd imagine. I think I could figure out how to move the bracket back, but is there a different length factory style cable?
Must've missed this earlier...if I were running an aftermarket intake I probably would have to figure out how to have one of those fabbed up. Running the factory intake plus adapter, I'd have to get a bit creative I'd imagine. I think I could figure out how to move the bracket back, but is there a different length factory style cable?
Works with the factory intake also my buddy has one of these on his car. Yes you can get different lengths but why? Just figure out where your existing set's at and go from there and move the spring like mine it helps to keep slack out.
To see if you getting wot, with the engine off have a helper get in the car and hold the pedal to the floor while you look down into the carb to see if the butterflies are open all the way. Make sure you aren't over extending the carb linkage. I prefer using the big hole on top of the throttle with a rubber grommet and plastic insert to connect the cable to the carb. There is nothing wrong with your return spring other than there should be 2.
Agree with above. Your throttle return spring setup is fine. It's the way the factory did it.
Two springs should be used like the following picture: (apologies for the Chevy engine)
Currently, you don't have enough travel. This is obvious to a trained eye.
To verify WOT is WOT have someone mash the gas while you take a peek down the carb, (engine off of course). I'll bet you are getting ~1/2.
Use the hole indicated by the red arrow below with the bushing kit Eric shows. This may buy you enough travel.
As wr1970 said the modified bracket WILL move as the gasket settles. Ask me how I know.
If you keep tightening it you will warp the carb.
I like the spacer wr1970 made.
You will need another bracket or a way to pin this one to the throttle body...if the current position will allow WOT with the cable mounted in the forward hole(red arrow).
Several vendors offer custom adjustable brackets and various-length cables.
FYI The OEM 4-barrel cable should be ~23 1/4" long, in total, (The 2-barrel carb cable is shorter, ~20 1/2 - 21").
Off-topic: FYI
The vac canister should be pointing towards the 9:30-10:00 o'clock position viewed standing in front of the radiator. Yours is ~2 o'clock ish
Spoiler
Approximate correct OEM distributor clocking position below ↓↓↓↓↓ Joe, IGNORE the valve cover!!!
Currently, you don't have enough travel. This is obvious to a trained eye.
To verify WOT is WOT have someone mash the gas while you take a peek down the carb, (engine off of course). I'll bet you are getting ~1/2.
Use the hole indicated by the red arrow below with the bushing kit Eric shows. This may buy you enough travel.
As wr1970 said the modified bracket WILL move as the gasket settles. Ask me how I know.
If you keep tightening it you will warp the carb.
I like the spacer wr1970 made.
You will need another bracket or a way to pin this one to the throttle body...if the current position will allow WOT with the cable mounted in the forward hole(red arrow).
Several vendors offer custom adjustable brackets and various-length cables.
FYI The OEM 4-barrel cable should be ~23 1/4" long, in total, (The 2-barrel carb cable is shorter, ~20 1/2 - 21").
Off-topic: FYI
The vac canister should be pointing towards the 9:30-10:00 o'clock position viewed standing in front of the radiator. Yours is ~2 o'clock ish
Spoiler
Approximate correct OEM distributor clocking position below ↓↓↓↓↓ Joe, IGNORE the valve cover!!!
initially I had the cable in the top hole, but kept having issues with the throttle catching until I got the right stud on there. What do I use to fill the hole?
Also, yeah..the vacuum advance is backwards..thats another issue on the off-season to-do list
Just went out and put the spare bracket on the Qjet and measured from bracket to stud, and it measure 6 1/2". Measured the current setup on the car and it was about 5 3/4". Moved the cable to the top hole and it's bow reading 6".
Gonna look into a bolt on top option to gain that extra half inch, in addition to figuring out how to lock the cable into the linkage at the large hole.
Look at post #13.
here's a pin that goes through the cable end and the 2 bushings with that round clip or a hair pin.
Cliff Ruggles will have it. Holley, Jegs or Summit probably have it too. You are not the first person to adapt a Holley where a QJ once lived.
Just went out and put the spare bracket on the Qjet and measured from bracket to stud, and it measure 6 1/2". Measured the current setup on the car and it was about 5 3/4". Moved the cable to the top hole and it's bow reading 6".
Gonna look into a bolt on top option to gain that extra half inch, in addition to figuring out how to lock the cable into the linkage at the large hole.
I may or may not be an idiot..it just depends if you're asking my wife or not.....
Went back out and re-measured as I'm having a hard time finding a bolt on (top) option that doesn't include kickdown or anything like that. I spun the bracket as much as I could, and am now reading 6" from outside of bracket to center on the bolt at the linkage arm. To compare, I bolted on the bracket to the Qjet and remeasured from bracket to center of post where the cable attaches at 6 1/8". I can't imagine an eighth of an inch creating that much of a difference regarding WOT, but I'll verify once the stuff comes in to actually hook the cable up properly
December 14th, 2022, 05:01 AM
