Mounting a cam degree wheel to the crank Olds 455
#1
Mounting a cam degree wheel to the crank Olds 455
I have a Proform cam degreeing kit and the degree wheel hole diameter for the crank bolt is 1.00". However, an Olds balancer bolt is 3/4"-16. Has anyone done something to get the degree wheel centered?
Also, if the bolt holding the degree wheel on is used to turn the engine both ways, it seems to want to come loose when turning the engine counterclockwise. How is this avoided?
Not centered
I really wanna get this cam position checked, verified and move on with assembly of the 455.
Any suggestions? Centering washer/reducer?
Since this is the first time I am doing this myself, I just want to make this as accurate as possible and not have the damned thing slip when turning the engine.
Also, if the bolt holding the degree wheel on is used to turn the engine both ways, it seems to want to come loose when turning the engine counterclockwise. How is this avoided?
Not centered
I really wanna get this cam position checked, verified and move on with assembly of the 455.
Any suggestions? Centering washer/reducer?
Since this is the first time I am doing this myself, I just want to make this as accurate as possible and not have the damned thing slip when turning the engine.
#2
I use a COMP Cams 4799 crankshaft socket to hold the 1" degree wheel.
COMP Cams Crankshaft Sockets 4799CPG
COMP Cams Crankshaft Sockets 4799CPG
#6
#7
I hadn’t looked at the socket in a while and forgot that it had the provision for the wheel.🤪If I had just thought about what v8al said, the lightbulb would have illuminated above my head. Gonna go out there right now and get it done. Thx Norm and v8al!
#11
That's what I'm doing as indicated in the second pic except that there is no rod in the kit to use to actuate the dial indicator. There is some sort of rod that I can't see how it would be used.
An actual pushrod is too long even with the assembly adjusted all the way up. It's like there is something missing that goes on that rod shown above on the the threaded end that is missing in the kit.
An actual pushrod is too long even with the assembly adjusted all the way up. It's like there is something missing that goes on that rod shown above on the the threaded end that is missing in the kit.
#13
That's what I'm doing as indicated in the second pic except that there is no rod in the kit to use to actuate the dial indicator. There is some sort of rod that I can't see how it would be used.
An actual pushrod is too long even with the assembly adjusted all the way up. It's like there is something missing that goes on that rod shown above on the the threaded end that is missing in the kit.
An actual pushrod is too long even with the assembly adjusted all the way up. It's like there is something missing that goes on that rod shown above on the the threaded end that is missing in the kit.
Last edited by Fun71; September 10th, 2023 at 07:53 AM.
#14
Holy hell, thanks again Ken. I knew I should have my reading glasses on when I try to look closely at this stuff.
I'll finish the degree-ing exercise later today after I get done mowing, edging, whacking and blowing.
Wait a sec... that sounds a little wrong...
I'll finish the degree-ing exercise later today after I get done mowing, edging, whacking and blowing.
Wait a sec... that sounds a little wrong...
#15
And again, the plot thickens. The ball end on the dial indicator shaft unscrewed fine. However, the threads on the rod are different than the threads on the dial indicator shaft.🙄
I guess I am just not meant to do this LOL
Maybe just shove it in there and go for it.
I guess I am just not meant to do this LOL
Maybe just shove it in there and go for it.
#16
Your pistons have a interesting pattern milled into them, what is the theory behind the design? Any time you don't perform a precision measurement routinely it can be a little frustrating until you have the right set up.
#20
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