New PB
#1
New PB
Went to a track rental today. Still can't 60 for shjt, but laid down the best numbers to date- 11.70@122. 93 pump gas, and drove an hour to and back with no breakage. I'm still lost on shock setup, and a long time racer friend watched a couple runs and said I need weight in the rear. I can see that. MPH should tickle 10s! I'm happy.
#6
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Colorado Springs Colorado/Thousand Oaks Ca
Posts: 1,719
Went to a track rental today. Still can't 60 for shjt, but laid down the best numbers to date- 11.70@122. 93 pump gas, and drove an hour to and back with no breakage. I'm still lost on shock setup, and a long time racer friend watched a couple runs and said I need weight in the rear. I can see that. MPH should tickle 10s! I'm happy.
1320/122=10.81
#7
As in Normally Aspirated? Yes. 468
The Wallace calculator says 532rwhp, moving 3800 to 122. Just for chips and pickles, if you throw 10% on for drivetrain loss, that's 585 flywheel, but is a manual trans and locker killing 10%? The 9" probably eats some?
My friend that shoes a super stocker was there, and said i need weight in the rear. That, and I was going the wrong way on the shocks. I don't know where my IC is, so i don't know whether to adjust for squat or anti-squat. Apparently, cranking up the compression alone doesn't work, which I think is good for anti-squat, no?
The Wallace calculator says 532rwhp, moving 3800 to 122. Just for chips and pickles, if you throw 10% on for drivetrain loss, that's 585 flywheel, but is a manual trans and locker killing 10%? The 9" probably eats some?
My friend that shoes a super stocker was there, and said i need weight in the rear. That, and I was going the wrong way on the shocks. I don't know where my IC is, so i don't know whether to adjust for squat or anti-squat. Apparently, cranking up the compression alone doesn't work, which I think is good for anti-squat, no?
#8
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Colorado Springs Colorado/Thousand Oaks Ca
Posts: 1,719
As in Normally Aspirated? Yes. 468
The Wallace calculator says 532rwhp, moving 3800 to 122. Just for chips and pickles, if you throw 10% on for drivetrain loss, that's 585 flywheel, but is a manual trans and locker killing 10%? The 9" probably eats some?
My friend that shoes a super stocker was there, and said i need weight in the rear. That, and I was going the wrong way on the shocks. I don't know where my IC is, so i don't know whether to adjust for squat or anti-squat. Apparently, cranking up the compression alone doesn't work, which I think is good for anti-squat, no?
The Wallace calculator says 532rwhp, moving 3800 to 122. Just for chips and pickles, if you throw 10% on for drivetrain loss, that's 585 flywheel, but is a manual trans and locker killing 10%? The 9" probably eats some?
My friend that shoes a super stocker was there, and said i need weight in the rear. That, and I was going the wrong way on the shocks. I don't know where my IC is, so i don't know whether to adjust for squat or anti-squat. Apparently, cranking up the compression alone doesn't work, which I think is good for anti-squat, no?
#12
What was your 60? Can you post your slip?
would be nice to see a video from the back and side on how it leaves . The tires should drive themselves into the track and separate from the body.
this slip was from the weekend. 455 in the same weight as yours with a 4:10 and T/400. Not making near the power you are but manages low 11’s similar MPH
would be nice to see a video from the back and side on how it leaves . The tires should drive themselves into the track and separate from the body.
this slip was from the weekend. 455 in the same weight as yours with a 4:10 and T/400. Not making near the power you are but manages low 11’s similar MPH
#13
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Colorado Springs Colorado/Thousand Oaks Ca
Posts: 1,719
What was your 60? Can you post your slip?
would be nice to see a video from the back and side on how it leaves . The tires should drive themselves into the track and separate from the body.
this slip was from the weekend. 455 in the same weight as yours with a 4:10 and T/400. Not making near the power you are but manages low 11’s similar MPH
would be nice to see a video from the back and side on how it leaves . The tires should drive themselves into the track and separate from the body.
this slip was from the weekend. 455 in the same weight as yours with a 4:10 and T/400. Not making near the power you are but manages low 11’s similar MPH
#14
im trying..street car I did the Iron heads on for a guy.
he’s whittling it down with suspension work. It will be in the 10’s soon. We know it’s in it with that MPH.
the 30” tall tire is hurting him…we have a 26” that should do the trick
he’s whittling it down with suspension work. It will be in the 10’s soon. We know it’s in it with that MPH.
the 30” tall tire is hurting him…we have a 26” that should do the trick
Last edited by CANADIANOLDS; June 11th, 2022 at 07:30 PM.
#15
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Colorado Springs Colorado/Thousand Oaks Ca
Posts: 1,719
Very nice-you know I like a production head/parts build, I learned a long time ago, you can't build the whole car for them.
#16
Went to a track rental today. Still can't 60 for shjt, but laid down the best numbers to date- 11.70@122. 93 pump gas, and drove an hour to and back with no breakage. I'm still lost on shock setup, and a long time racer friend watched a couple runs and said I need weight in the rear. I can see that. MPH should tickle 10s! I'm happy.
#18
True, if it wasn’t a street driven car and he put more gear and converter in it.
For now he’s sticking with 4:10’s and 30” tire…will switch to the short tire at the track. It’s a 50 mile drive to the track and he drives it a lot.
what gear and converter to run that and the weight?
For now he’s sticking with 4:10’s and 30” tire…will switch to the short tire at the track. It’s a 50 mile drive to the track and he drives it a lot.
what gear and converter to run that and the weight?
#19
2.52 1st, 3.70 rear, no roll cage, gotta stay above 11.50 depending on the track. Tires are 275/60-15 Nitto 55tr on 10" rim- 15-16psi
60' is 1.89-2.0; either spins or bogs, but always sucks.
I have Viking DA shocks..
60' is 1.89-2.0; either spins or bogs, but always sucks.
I have Viking DA shocks..
#21
#22
You can do it Fleming! You’ve just got to get that car to work for you.
The comments here are right…you want that rear to push down and get a little separation in the body.
After that you just need some transfer in the front.
Canadian…this is a street driven car as well. Probably a few thousand miles a year. It’s pump gas and relatively low maintenance.
I had a Gear Vendor in it until last year. I used to drive it to the track, but at 95 miles I don’t chance it any more.
3890lbs, 3.90, 28” drag radials, with a 4000 stall converter.
it’s a pretty tight converter so street driving is easy on temps.
The comments here are right…you want that rear to push down and get a little separation in the body.
After that you just need some transfer in the front.
Canadian…this is a street driven car as well. Probably a few thousand miles a year. It’s pump gas and relatively low maintenance.
I had a Gear Vendor in it until last year. I used to drive it to the track, but at 95 miles I don’t chance it any more.
3890lbs, 3.90, 28” drag radials, with a 4000 stall converter.
it’s a pretty tight converter so street driving is easy on temps.
#23
#24
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Colorado Springs Colorado/Thousand Oaks Ca
Posts: 1,719
You can do it Fleming! You’ve just got to get that car to work for you.
The comments here are right…you want that rear to push down and get a little separation in the body.
After that you just need some transfer in the front.
Canadian…this is a street driven car as well. Probably a few thousand miles a year. It’s pump gas and relatively low maintenance.
I had a Gear Vendor in it until last year. I used to drive it to the track, but at 95 miles I don’t chance it any more.
3890lbs, 3.90, 28” drag radials, with a 4000 stall converter.
it’s a pretty tight converter so street driving is easy on temps.
The comments here are right…you want that rear to push down and get a little separation in the body.
After that you just need some transfer in the front.
Canadian…this is a street driven car as well. Probably a few thousand miles a year. It’s pump gas and relatively low maintenance.
I had a Gear Vendor in it until last year. I used to drive it to the track, but at 95 miles I don’t chance it any more.
3890lbs, 3.90, 28” drag radials, with a 4000 stall converter.
it’s a pretty tight converter so street driving is easy on temps.
A 1.49 60 on a 10.69 car isn't something I'd be happy with or tolerate especially in Florida. How much is lost with the gear vendor?
Last edited by VORTECPRO; June 12th, 2022 at 07:58 PM.
#25
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Colorado Springs Colorado/Thousand Oaks Ca
Posts: 1,719
Its great to see you get with the right people! Now you need to talk to them about the rest of the car.
#26
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Colorado Springs Colorado/Thousand Oaks Ca
Posts: 1,719
#27
It doesn’t have enough overall first ratio to launch that weight, with good traction while side stepping it, without pulling the motor down… even with the heaviest flywheel you can find.
I don’t know what rpm your leaving at but even at only 3k the wheel speed will be over 26 mph fully engaged .. so something has to give,, the motor will get pulled down, or it will lift the front wheels ten feet in the air with traction,,and it’s not doing that.
As it is now, you’ll need to be feathering the clutch while easing into full throttle to fool the car into thinking it’s got a lot more overall first in it for a good launch… that’s really difficult to do consistently and make it work
#28
The thing is that it's a pump gas street car. And, I'm a hard head about one of the 4s in 442 standing for 4 speed. No OD dictates the rear for highway cruising, hence the 3.70. I got one of the steepest 1sts available in a Muncie, again, all about compromise.
If I cut the floor and put a TKX in, I could drop the rear gear and get a steeper first. It's not a 13sec bracket car that gets trailered (never got that one). It's pretty close to perfect as far as I'm concerned. I just need to figure the rear suspension out. Yes, I want a wheelie. The runs out the back door were just for fun. I'd like to be able to short shift my way to 12.0s for index classes, eventually.
As far as the "right people", yes, Frank builds a nasty Olds. It ain't cheap, but it makes power. I think he's pissed because i changed the intake gaskets and yanked the fitech 💩 he recommended off. He originally wanted to put a Dominator on it. I don't have the money his customers do, and they leave their cars there for years on end (Hi, Joe!). I'm learning as i go. They're all about cruises and yawn chairs- not my scene; I'd rather go to the track.
I'm going to see about getting it scaled, so I know more about how the rear is setup. I will probably end up moving the battery to the trunk, at a minimum.
Worst case scenario: I give up on the 60, accept 2.0s, and leave soft like a traffic light. It will be easier on the clutch.
drilled the post time- 4:42
If I cut the floor and put a TKX in, I could drop the rear gear and get a steeper first. It's not a 13sec bracket car that gets trailered (never got that one). It's pretty close to perfect as far as I'm concerned. I just need to figure the rear suspension out. Yes, I want a wheelie. The runs out the back door were just for fun. I'd like to be able to short shift my way to 12.0s for index classes, eventually.
As far as the "right people", yes, Frank builds a nasty Olds. It ain't cheap, but it makes power. I think he's pissed because i changed the intake gaskets and yanked the fitech 💩 he recommended off. He originally wanted to put a Dominator on it. I don't have the money his customers do, and they leave their cars there for years on end (Hi, Joe!). I'm learning as i go. They're all about cruises and yawn chairs- not my scene; I'd rather go to the track.
I'm going to see about getting it scaled, so I know more about how the rear is setup. I will probably end up moving the battery to the trunk, at a minimum.
Worst case scenario: I give up on the 60, accept 2.0s, and leave soft like a traffic light. It will be easier on the clutch.
drilled the post time- 4:42
Last edited by fleming442; June 13th, 2022 at 02:54 AM.
#29
It sounds like lots of fun and a good cruiser as is. That 2.0 60 ft is brutal and definitely the issue. I ran that with my slow **** in the 1/8 mile. My 88 had horrible suspension. It handled like a washing machine and acted like it was on ice on launch. I'm glad the new carb is a big improvement over that Fi No Tech. There is always something faster, as long as you are happy with the results.
#30
The thing is that it's a pump gas street car. And, I'm a hard head about one of the 4s in 442 standing for 4 speed. No OD dictates the rear for highway cruising, hence the 3.70. I got one of the steepest 1sts available in a Muncie, again, all about compromise.
If I cut the floor and put a TKX in, I could drop the rear gear and get a steeper first. It's not a 13sec bracket car that gets trailered (never got that one). It's pretty close to perfect as far as I'm concerned. I just need to figure the rear suspension out. Yes, I want a wheelie. The runs out the back door were just for fun. I'd like to be able to short shift my way to 12.0s for index classes, eventually.
As far as the "right people", yes, Frank builds a nasty Olds. It ain't cheap, but it makes power. I think he's pissed because i changed the intake gaskets and yanked the fitech 💩 he recommended off. He originally wanted to put a Dominator on it. I don't have the money his customers do, and they leave their cars there for years on end (Hi, Joe!). I'm learning as i go. They're all about cruises and yawn chairs- not my scene; I'd rather go to the track.
I'm going to see about getting it scaled, so I know more about how the rear is setup. I will probably end up moving the battery to the trunk, at a minimum.
Worst case scenario: I give up on the 60, accept 2.0s, and leave soft like a traffic light. It will be easier on the clutch.
drilled the post time- 4:42
If I cut the floor and put a TKX in, I could drop the rear gear and get a steeper first. It's not a 13sec bracket car that gets trailered (never got that one). It's pretty close to perfect as far as I'm concerned. I just need to figure the rear suspension out. Yes, I want a wheelie. The runs out the back door were just for fun. I'd like to be able to short shift my way to 12.0s for index classes, eventually.
As far as the "right people", yes, Frank builds a nasty Olds. It ain't cheap, but it makes power. I think he's pissed because i changed the intake gaskets and yanked the fitech 💩 he recommended off. He originally wanted to put a Dominator on it. I don't have the money his customers do, and they leave their cars there for years on end (Hi, Joe!). I'm learning as i go. They're all about cruises and yawn chairs- not my scene; I'd rather go to the track.
I'm going to see about getting it scaled, so I know more about how the rear is setup. I will probably end up moving the battery to the trunk, at a minimum.
Worst case scenario: I give up on the 60, accept 2.0s, and leave soft like a traffic light. It will be easier on the clutch.
drilled the post time- 4:42
#35
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Colorado Springs Colorado/Thousand Oaks Ca
Posts: 1,719
#36
Just some info regarding the tkx, we did one in a 65 442’ original 4peed car and had to do zero cutting of the floor, just a hammer to massage the rear of the floor pan behind the shifter. 100% would recommend to anyone.
#37
#39
right because you know everything, you’re just the best. Btw, it’s a 680 hp 403 and as I told you before, no one this website will know what it runs. It doesn’t matter what it runs
#40
The CE shocks have been replaced by Viking DAs. UMI uppers, Roto-joints, and braces, GW(?) Lowers, all rod ends or solid bushings, Eibah progressive lowering springs (recently changed), 2000 Blazer bar
-2⁰ pinion, and had 5lbs air in the bags.
Last edited by fleming442; June 14th, 2022 at 08:42 AM.