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I am looking for recommendations on a quality solid roller lifter for a 455. I had Crower lifters and had oiling issues so looking for something better. Thank you.
What was the oiling issue with the Crowers? Lack of oil to the top end? I have a fix for that.
I wasn’t getting oil to the top end on some of the cylinders. In the rush to make it to drag week we tore it apart and my buddy etched a groove in the lifter. After putting it back together it was getting so much oil to the top it would come out of the breather. I assume those lifters are now junk.
Your buddy was on the right track his execution was just too aggressive. It doesn't take much to overdo it. I set them up in a V-block on a surface grinder and grind a .0010-.0015 deep flat from the band to the oil hole.
Last edited by chadman; November 28th, 2023 at 04:28 AM.
I wasn’t getting oil to the top end on some of the cylinders. In the rush to make it to drag week we tore it apart and my buddy etched a groove in the lifter. After putting it back together it was getting so much oil to the top it would come out of the breather. I assume those lifters are now junk.
you’ll need to use lifter bore feed hole restrictors with them now
Your buddy was on the right track his execution was just too aggressive. It doesn't take much to overdo it. I set them up in a V-block on a surface grinder and grind a .0010-.0015 deep flat from the band to the oil hole.
I did .003 deep, .031 wide on this DX .937’s I have on the Dyno now. Seems to be just right regarding having enough oil up top to keep the springs cool. Had to cut a similar groove in the backside (.050 long) as well cuz I got nothing when the lifter was on the base circle. Just weeps a bit around the lifter as well. .0018-.0022 lifter to bore clearance per Brads recommendation. Picked up 2* duration cuz of the .850 wheel too. Win-Win.
depends on the size of the feed in the P rod..the ones I’ve seen are still way to big.
the problem with that is even if the p rod did have a very small feed hole you would probably still be pumping too much oil out between the cup and p rod because of the lash.
you need to put the restriction upstream of the feed hole in the lifter
Go to your local hardware and purchase 16, 1/4x28 allen socket head screws. If you have access to a decent drill press with a small chuck, drill a hole in each of the screws. You can make a fixture out of a scrap of metal to place in the drilling vice to hold the screw for drilling. Size of the hole is .020" for non-hydraulic lifters or .052" for hydraulic lifters; some folks like to go a little larger. you shall have to acquire the appropriate number drill if not in your inventory; #76 for .020" and #55 for .052". In the lifter bore of the block, the oil hole is already from the factory the right size to use a 1/4-28 tap to cut threads for the screws. Only go deep enough with the tap such that no portion of the screw will enter the lifter bore and contact the lifter; and don't break the tap!. After the block is cleaned up, a drop of blue loc-tite on each screw to keep them in place. Alternately, take your block and screws to your machinest and he can bore and fit them for you. This oiling mod only for race engines!
Last edited by 67OAI; December 4th, 2023 at 03:41 PM.
Reason: Add info
Go to your local hardware and purchase 16, 1/4x28 allen socket head screws. If you have access to a decent drill press with a small chuck, drill a hole in each of the screws. You can make a fixture out of a scrap of metal to place in the drilling vice to hold the screw for drilling. Size of the hole is .020" for non-hydraulic lifters or .052" for hydraulic lifters; some folks like to go a little larger. you shall have to acquire the appropriate number drill if not in your inventory; #76 for .020" and #55 for .052". In the lifter bore of the block, the oil hole is already from the factory the right size to use a 1/4-28 tap to cut threads for the screws. Only go deep enough with the tap such that no portion of the screw will enter the lifter bore and contact the lifter; and don't break the tap!. After the block is cleaned up, a drop of blue loc-tite on each screw to keep them in place. Alternately, take your block and screws to your machinest and he can bore and fit them for you. This oiling mod only for race engines!
This is some of the worst advice I’ve seen on here.
first off the feed hole is not already the correct size to tap for a 1/4 28 plug….the actual feed holes are 1/8” (.125”) , the cavity above the feed hole is actually .310”
the tap for a 1/4” 28 plug requires a .213” drilled hole which is a #3 drill (.213”)
you would also never want to use a plug that big as it’s to close to the edge of the lifter bore where the casting is very thin at the bottom because of the angle it’s on…..it will distort to lifter bore
the correct size of set screw to use is either 8-32 or 10-32. when using a mechanical roller, the feed hole should be .020” to .030”. smaller for track only, larger for street use
do not use a big 1/4” plug..you will distort the lifter bore
the correct size of set screw to use is either 8-32 or 10-32. when using a mechanical roller, the feed hole should be .020” to .030”. smaller for track only, larger for street use
do not use a big 1/4” plug..you will distort the lifter bore
this is the 8/32
Do you regularly do this as part of a performance engine build?
The general consensus seems to be a coin toss.
Thanks, I am going to try restricted push rods first. I have some roll pins that fit in the end of my push rods. I am going to install them in one side of the engine and unrestricted push rods in the other side and spin the oil pump with a drill. If this doesn’t work then I will restrict the lifter bore feed hole.
November 24th, 2023, 05:16 PM
