When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Do you have the HILLBILLY CLUTCH SLIPPER? Or something like it. Seen them work on a number of different cars. We did "sorta" the same thing with timing on a Top Sportsman car to calm it down on gear changes.
I do have a slipper valve, but I wouldn't call it hillbilly as it was designed by a hydraulic engineer that works for John Deere. I still haven't come up with a good way to actuate it, though. And, it's very sensitive to adjustment; he says he has a needle valve with more resolution.
Ironically, my best pass to date was all me without the slipper.
Ok just giving some different advice. The actual MARKETING NAME by the guy selling those is Hillbilly Clutch Slipper. Not being critcal as that's its name.
Ok just giving some different advice. The actual MARKETING NAME by the guy selling those is Hillbilly Clutch Slipper. Not being critcal as that's its name.
I really didn't like the starting fluid and torch method of getting a 275 on a 15x10. The beadlocks were a breeze.
Really, a breeze? I had a hell of a time with 14 wide slick on my 15 x 15 convo pro with fouble beadlocks. Trying to get slick off without marring up the mating surface isn't fun or easy.
I understand that, why are you sticking with a drag radial?
Mainly because I'm hard headed, and drive an hour to the track and back.
I know bias slicks would be more forgiving, but where's the fun in it being easy?
Got the slip valve actuated off 1st gear via some jiggyness with an American Autowire reverse switch.
I'll zip tie the wires to the crossmember once in.
Also installed a programmable Holley Sniper shift light, because I suck at driving.
I called autogear today inquiring about swapping my m22w gear set with the new m23z stuff. He had a couple different options but it was surprisingly reasonable.
My best 60' is 1.67. That hasn't been duplicated. I'm usually in the mid 1.70s though.
Got the slip valve actuated off 1st gear via some jiggyness with an American Autowire reverse switch.
I'll zip tie the wires to the crossmember once in.
Also installed a programmable Holley Sniper shift light, because I suck at driving.
Make sure u adjust shift light lower then your target RPM. By the time everything happens it could be easily 3oo RPM's higher . If you have recording it will show it.
Nice progress. What second and third gear ratio are you running in your Auto Gear Muncie?
Honestly, I don't know what 2nd and 3rd are. I'll look it up. I believe they offer 2 different ranges, and I don't know which one I got. I don't even know that it would make much difference with the big, fat torque curve of a big block Olds. I can see it affecting a small block, though.
Also do u have the no hop upper bars. They relocate the angle on upper bar and honestly separate rear end from body to fast, but with a good shock that's controllable.
Also do u have the no hop upper bars. They relocate the angle on upper bar and honestly separate rear end from body to fast, but with a good shock that's controllable.
No, I do not have the no-hop bars. I haven't found any that fit a 9"; most are made for a GM housing. I know the geometry is less than ideal, and it's really frustrating when someone can out 60 me on clapped out stock crap. LOL I'm doing everything I can with what's there, but I think lowering the front of the bottom bar might be most effective. Pinion gear is 2⁰
I do think the shock was topping out and shocking the tire. We shall see.
Last edited by fleming442; August 12th, 2023 at 03:30 AM.
Top bar down will help. Maybe pinion half or 1 down. 4 link cars even stock do t need pinion down so it may help move car forward. Is the slow 60 from Tires spinning or from having to leave at a low rpm to keep from spinning?
Don't get it twisted; I can row that bitch. It's a Comp Plus. I just drilled the handle for the cross bolts. I took it for a shakedown yesterday- need to fix the alignment and bleed the clutch again.
I need to get an open face helmet so I can chmp a cigar while bangin' gears. LOL
Don't get it twisted; I can row that bitch. It's a Comp Plus. I just drilled the handle for the cross bolts. I took it for a shakedown yesterday- need to fix the alignment and bleed the clutch again.
I need to get an open face helmet so I can chmp a cigar while bangin' gears. LOL
Don't get it twisted; I can row that bitch. It's a Comp Plus. I just drilled the handle for the cross bolts. I took it for a shakedown yesterday- need to fix the alignment and bleed the clutch again.
I need to get an open face helmet so I can chmp a cigar while bangin' gears. LOL
So..... what had happened was..... I got the clutch control dialed in pretty good; went from a 1.85 down to a 1.63. I can throw a couple hundred rpm at the 2 step, and maybe pick some up. I had the shift light set at 5700, and went 11.42@121. I made another run, came back around to hot lap it, and shjt let go out of the burnout box. I limped it down the side of the track with gravel noises. Then it shut off. Water dripping out of the headers. Still going to try for Drag Week in 23 days. Place ya bets!
oh, and that's with shock settings pulled out my butt
Looks like I may just go small block for a while. Frank has a 434DX built for boost or nitrous, so it should run on pump gas. He says it should do about 650hp NA. Then, I just have to buy headers and drop it in.
August 3rd, 2023, 10:17 PM
